gary_watson Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 I'm eyeing a clean MD-4 that's missing one of its 7(?)contact pins. All the others are properly aligned and spring-loaded save one that's likely been sheared off.I initially thought it might be stuck but no amount of gentle poking with a paper clip will coax it into, er, an erect state(no pharmaceutical jokes, please...)Any similar experiences or any idea of the complexity/cost of a repair? I'm being offered a steep discount by the shop for an "as is" sale but wonder whether I should lay back and wait for another, functional MD-4. As usual, thanks for all replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Lai Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Gary,<p>Bring your camera along to test the drive. If the MD-4 works properly, then it's fine.<p>The 7th pin is missing in ALL production MD-4s. It was there when the prototype was being developed, but in the end it was deemed unnecessary. Rather than change the connector to a 6 pin version, Nikon chose to shear off the 7th pin. This information comes from the great Malaysian Nikon Site.<p>As for what CAN go wrong with an MD-4, here are a couple of points.<p>Check the inside of the battery compartment. If there's goo there, then a battery has probably leaked at some point, and there will be corrosion internally. Pass on such a drive.<p>I had one drive that would NOT let the camera shut off. That's why it's important to bring your camera with you. After mounting the camera to drive, touch the shutter button or motor release part way. Your meter should turn on, then shut off after 16 seconds, as usual. If the meter never shuts off, then be warned that a fresh set of 8 Alkaline batteries will be drained in less than one week. I've been there, done that. Pass on such a drive also.<p>Final point: Check to be sure that there are no gaps between the top of the drive and the bottom of the camera. The "everlasting meter" MD-4 that I (briefly) had showed some distortion at this point, which should have clued me in to the fact that it had been dropped or damaged in some way.<p>MD-4 paint chips off easily. The most common points are along the bottom edges, corners, and along the handgrip edge. A drive may look ugly but work fine. As before, bring your camera along to test the drive.<p>Did I remind you to bring your camera along to test the drive? I hope you do!<p>Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Lai Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 P.S. If you're supremely lucky, you'll find in the battery holder slot (adjacent to the outer wall) that the previous owner has forgotten his camera motor drive coupling cover plate. Nikon charges $18 for these little covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary_watson Posted June 18, 2004 Author Share Posted June 18, 2004 Many thanks, Robert.It's evident I must be collecting on banked virtue from a previous life since I've found a near-mint F3, a unused NOS F3HP and now a pristine MD-4(thanks to Lai's experience and diagnostic acumen)in the space of a month.Battery holder and contacts are sanitary and cosmetics are pretty. I'll look out for the shut-off anomaly since there will be time to futz around with the goods before buying. I've avoided these wonderful cameras for years since I never found anything but overpriced beaters; but now the market around Toronto seems awash in minty F3s and accessories, as well as specialty MF Nikkor optics, all at attractive prices.Particularly appreciate your advice since my both my F3 toting friends are out of the country this month! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mskovacs Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 <i>an erect state</i> - Surely you must know what Robert does for a living...<p>Seriously my MD-4 is like this too. Mine is not what I would call a cosmetic beauty but it only cost about $100USD. What you might next want to look for is the 16.8V MN-2 NiCd pack and MH-2 charger. It adds some serious speed to the fps and rewind time if you ever find yourself needing it. The downside is that the packs go flat over a month or two of disuse like all NiCd or NiMH cells. In continuous mode you actually need to be careful not to squeeze off extra shots. The firing rate converter is a nice toy since it adds variable firing rates and a vertical release (I saw Todd Peach's) but I've never been able to find one for a reasonable price.<p>Also of note: the motor drive cover can apparently cause a light leak. I have taken my motor on and off with film loaded but I have taken care to do so indoor in subdued light. Make sure you search for the modern photography F3 review that I posted here several months back. Great info in there.<p>My F3 has only once let me down and that was for a recent shoot at a friend's wedding. It was a blazing sunny day and although I was covered for the formals with my 1/500 leaf-shuttered Rolleiflex, my "backup" FM2N saved my ass with its 1/250 flash synch for the candids. My F3HP/MD-4 pretty much sat in the bag. For my normal nature work, I couldn't ask for a finer machine. All of the wedding shots came out great but I thank the photographic gods that its not my full-time job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Lai Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Gary:<p>Methinks it is a good time to visit Toronto again! My F3 was purchased in Toronto also, 21 years ago. However, I'm always interested in minty cameras at a low cost.<p>For small imperfections in the paint, I've found that certain matte black automotive touch up paints look VERY similar to MD-4 paint. If it's still not matte enough, then rub over it (when the paint has dried) with a cloth lightly moistened with rubbing alcohol. If you make a mistake, then rubbing more will remove all of the touch up paint. This regimen keeps my MD-4 looking like new.<p>Mike,<p>Do you carry a polarizer or a ND filter with you? That, and using ISO 50-100 film has never had me feeling that 1/80 was too slow a flash synch speed. However, I'm happy I don't photograph at weddings. It's too stressful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mskovacs Posted June 19, 2004 Share Posted June 19, 2004 I had a 2 stop ND with me. The wedding itself was in an outdoor pavillion. I was dealing with 1/60@f/22 in the outdoor background (full sun frontlit) and 1/60@f/2.8 inside the pavillion. Even with my flash at full power I had issues trying to keep the outdoor backdrop from going completely white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_h._hartman Posted June 19, 2004 Share Posted June 19, 2004 If the F3 is your Colt Peace Maker then the FM3a should be your converted .32 Pocket Navy. Every Shootist needs a backup.<br> <br> Ive always felt constricted buy a 1/80th second flash sync. No one camera does it all. Thats why I bought one of the first Nikon FM2(s) that hit my town back whenever.<br> <br> If I had all my money and could start over Id buy the following Nikons<br> <br> F5 and DW-31<br> FM3a<br> F3 with MD-4 and DW-4<br> D2H<br> <br> Best,<br> <br> Dave Hartman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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