Ok good joke Victor... Double Exposures and Hasselblads

[stuart_todd]

I searched for Double Exposure with Hasselblads, but nothing

explained what I was looking for.

How do I take a double exposure with a my 'blad.

I own a 500C with the standard Carl Zeiss 80mm/2.8 and have two backs-

an A12 and the older 12 back.

On the Mamiya RZ67 you just flick the switch on the body to M. On

my 'blad's body, I've got the shutter release, time lock switch,

lenes release button, mirror lock button, winder and something that

looks a lot like a second PC socket. I guessing theres some silly

dance you have to do with a carrot, standing on your head whilst

singing a Harry Belafonte song. Right?

 

Stu :)

(Only joking about the dance, carrot and standing on your head bit,

but I'm sure it's going to involve Harry Belafonte at some point...)

[audun_sjoeseth1]

After you have taken the first picture, glide in the darklide in your back and take it of the body. Then use the windingcrank on the body to cock the shutter and lower the mirror. Put the back on the body, remove the darkslide and take the second picture.

[dick roadnight cotswolds]

Like he says, ther is no quick and easy way to do double exposures, and none without touching the camera between exposures, even on the motorised models.

 

This is one of the earlier cases of equipment thinking it is cleverer that the operator!

[keith_laban]

As much as I love the 500 series Hasselblads double exposures can be a problem. As described above, double exposures as such are relatively easy. What are not so easy and indeed quite impossible are accurate registration double exposures. The problem is that to achieve any sort of double exposure on these cameras you have to remove the back, wind on and then replace the back. As there is always a little play in the A12 backs it is quite impossible to replace the back in exactly the same position each time. <p>So, if you want to double expose two entirely different images there is no problem, however if you want to produce a double exposure of essentially the same image with for instance an element added or removed from one of the exposures you�re basically stuffed.<p>Such a pity, but there again nothings perfect, is it?<p><a href="http://www.keithlaban.co.uk">www.keithlaban.co.uk</a>

[tomweis]

<p>I have to agree with Keith. I even went so far as to have an A12 magazine

modified with a clutch button so that the gearing inside the back would

disengage when cocking the shutter. It kinda worked, but it wasn't predictible -

some gear in there somewhere would twitch just a little and my nice multiple

exposure would be out of register. This was a real pain for architecture where

I split my exposure between strobe and available light. In the end it's why I

sold all my Hasselblad gear and switched to Bronica.</p>

<p>To this day I wonder why Hasselblad never engineered a multiple

exposure mechanism in their camera bodies, especially when the 503CW

was designed. It's not too complicated to make a switch which will move a

gear a millimeter or two so that it doesn't engage with the film magazine.</p>

[dick roadnight cotswolds]

With the Flexbody you can do double exposures without removing the film back, but you still have to insert the slide, put on a lens cap or whatever, as there is no secondary shutter.

[gavin martin]

alternatively . . . . .

 

if you want double exposures in register without having to remove the back there is another way. Obviously it works better with long exposures but you can shoot on the bulb setting & just remove & replace the lens cap for each needed exposure or use card/something suitable to cover the lens.

 

Just a thought

 

Gavin

 

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

[ulrik_neupert]

To cover this topic completely just let me add that Hasselblad 2000 series cameras allow double exposures. You can cock the shutter by turning the winding crank while pressing a button in the middle of the winding crank. The film transport geartrain is disengaged this way. (no need to sell your Hasselblad gear and to buy Bronica stuff).

 

Ulrik

[q.g._de_bakker]

To add a bit of useless information: in the early 1980s Hasselblad has designed a rather simple (what else? ;-)) mechanism to disengage the gears in the magazine from the camera's transport gear to allow producing double exposure without removing the back.<br>It never made it to the production line, probably because the demand for such a thing would be too low to warrant the costs.<br><br>The ability to produce double exposures without having to design in an extra mechanism was (and still is) one of the advantages of the landmark original Hasselblad concept: the system camera. It involves removing and reseating the back. But that's all the effort needed.<br>It indeed does not provide exact "register". But that would have taken extra effort... ;-)

[charles barcellona www.bl]

Q.G. That mod was designed by one of the repair guys at Hasselblad New Jersey. I met him on several occasions starting from about 1978 or so, ending in about 1982 when I left the firm. He used to visit the shop I worked at in Fl, and bring along all sorts of stuff to show. He tried to sell the mod to Victor Hasselblad Ab, Sweden, but they were not in a buying mood. Eventually he was doing conversion of magazines out of his home (I think) in Ct. I think he used to advertise in Shutterbug.

 

I never saw the inside, but it had a small black button on the top of the magazines right sideplate, made to fit in a tiny square hole he said was EDM'd into the metal (but I think he filed it).

 

He did state that one reason Hasselblad didn't want it was because it could allow dirt to enter the magazine, but I think there ought to have been a simple workaround for THAT problem. More likely his price was too high if you ask me.

[diegobuono]

Why Hasseloblad don't use the same mechanism as the 2000 series? Is there a reason to design (and spend money) for a new mechanism?

[squareframe]

registration will be a problem with multiple-exposures on the 500 series. I bought the 203FE for an engineering project that required duplicate exposures on a single frame with high registration. I must say, that holding the central button and winding the camera doesn't bode well for high precision either. the film doesn't move, but the camera will if you are not *very* careful and controlled with your touch.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Charles,

 

That design is very officially attributed to S.R. Frode, then resident of Pixbo in Sweden.