andry_hermawan Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Hello, I wonder if flash bracket and a diffuser like lumiquest promax are must for a wedding. I'll be shooting wedding this weekend, I have camera flip bracket, but i don't like using it, it slows me down, and diffuser cuts down the light by 2 stops and the distance too. it will be in catholic church, pretty low light. any suggestion / tips? when to use TTL or manual flash? what ISO with flash? I have tried at the same church without flash, ISO 1000, F3.2 1/40 sec, seems still under 1 stop. I use d100 with sigma flah 500 super dg. thanks alot in advance.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthewkane Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Try bounce flash, I love it. I have no bracket or diffuser bouncing makes it soft and nice. Depending on ceiling height and walls, their color, etc. I guess it depends on how much ambient light there is to as to what ISO to shoot at. Ideally of course the lowest you can get away with in the given situation. Shoot on continuous mode when the lighting is low and you wanna be sure to get a sharp shot. And at key moments. adios Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_hundsnurscher Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 I use a lumiquest softbox with a stroboframe and it works great.<br> Usually f5.6 or f8 at 1/60th with ISO 400 for dark situations or 1/15th if I want to soak in some extra ambient light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
medina photography cherry Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Don't know if I can help here. I use the Sigma ef 500 Super DG with EOS 10D and everytime (99% of the time) I bounce the light it usually underexposes by almost 2 stops (although it looks good on the LCD) If I use direct flash it of course comes out harsh and blueish. I did try using a homemade bouncer, I cut a strip of card stok as wide as the flash and about 5 inches long so that it extends about 3-4 inches above the flash. I point the flash straight up and attach the card with a rubberband, this creates a 20/80 flash and seemed to work real well in tests. I then cut a longer piece of card stock and made a softbox to go over my flash head again attached with a rubberband (I did not tilt 45 degrees like an omni) and that seemed to work really well also but then while I was still testing it the flash stopped working. Once I send in for repairs I will try again. Like I sadi, I don't know if this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andry_hermawan Posted June 15, 2004 Author Share Posted June 15, 2004 thanks guys for the tips. bouncing is impossible there, because of high ceiling, about 10 m, so diffuser is a must.and Kevin, i'll try that setting, good thing I use d100 so i can check. is bracket a must? like i said, i don't like using it, slows me down. do you guys use it alot during wedding? when to use TTL or manual flash? thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted June 15, 2004 Share Posted June 15, 2004 Don't use a flash bracket if you don't care that verticals have cast shadows to the side of your subjects. If you care, then the bracket is pretty much a necessity. Like the person who posted the previous question, I am confused about which part of the wedding in the church you are talking out--processional/recession, ceremony itself (usually no flash allowed) or formals. Techniques vary. If you have tested and trust your D100 and flash combo, then use TTL, if not, use manual. You say it is mostly underexposed. Have you checked the histograms and are sure they are underexposed? If so, then compensate. Would help if you explained what part you are asking about. By the way, I have heard that Denis Reggie, who uses a D1s, does not turn his camera for verticals but relies on the great resolution of the D1s to crop vertical images from his horizontally shot frames. Don't think you want to do that with a 6 megapixel file but maybe just for candids you know won't be blown up big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 I use a couple of canon 550's for flash. I bought a sigma 500 super as a 3rd backup. It broke! Mean time, I use a Stroboframe Pro T bracket and a Stofen diffuser, set the flash to +2/3 and it just about fills the histogram. I also bounce when possible. Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_kolosky Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 You are using too fast of a shutter speed. For the weddings I do in very low light, when I am on the tripod and using 400 speed film I am usually shooting at 1/8th of a second, and when handheld no more than 1/30th of a second. even though you are using a flash, you will not have good exposure in those portions of your photgraph that are quite a ways beyond your subject due to the inverse square law. Of course, the other thing to do is to get another light and either slave it on a tripod or have an assistant carry it and point it where you need light. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mary_mchenry Posted June 16, 2004 Share Posted June 16, 2004 I use a pro-t stroboframe and like it for the shadow reducer and also because it gets the light source higher up. I am 5'5", so that helps with taller subjects. I also use a diffuser and love the look it brings for closer portrait shots -I like how it cuts the flash by a stop or two and I don't compensate. However, I take it off for big group shots or far away shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andry_hermawan Posted June 16, 2004 Author Share Posted June 16, 2004 OK then I will have to use bracket and diffuser. in certain moment, flash is not allowed, so I'm gonna have to use slower speed and tripod, is monopod enough? I'll be using 24-70 f2.8 lens, what do u think the slowest I can use with monopod? tripod is kind a too much hassle. My sigma flash is also broken, it won't fire, I opened the head, and found a broken cable/wire, i'll fix it. I'll compensate the camerA. My histogram mostly on the left side, so I need to make it to the right, is that correct? thank you guys for your tips... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 Not sure about how steady you are, but I would say 1/15th should be safe. The histogram should be spread accross and touch both ends (in an ideal world). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 BTW, I just called Sigma and they have shipped me a new unit. Hope it lasts longer this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colleendonovan Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 Didn't Marc Williams answer this queation? I'm going crazy trying to find the thread where there was a picture of his bracket and diffuser. Am I crazy or did they delete it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted June 17, 2004 Share Posted June 17, 2004 You're right Colleen, I asked the question a while back and Marc kindly posted an awesome shot of his rig. Perhaps you could ask Marc for another 'view' (if he doesn't mind that is):-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografz Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 No problem Colleen and Michael. Here's an even more comprehensive break down of the bracket and diffuser system I've come to prefer based on field use of many systems. I found it to be the most versatile, lightest and fastest of any I've used so far. I'm sure other's exist and are also effective. This system is very fast for set up and break down ... thus eliminating the usual PITA and inconvenience that most bracket pose when shooting weddings. DIFFUSERS: I use both the Stofen (shown on camera) and the LumiQuest ProMax UltraSoft (inset) depending on the situation. If there are a lot of lightish/neutral surfaces for light to bounce off of, or I'm outdoors using fill, I use the Stofen. It's a smaller light source thus harsher compared to the LumiQuest unless it's bouncing off walls. For all other situations, I use the LumiQuest. I also use the LumiQuest when using wide angle lenses with the flash's 17mm diffuser pulled into place. If you use TTL or ETTL properly, it does not underexpose, nor do you need to compensate it. TTL is TTL, it reads the light and increases the flash duration to make up for the diffusion. It does however reduce the effective distance, so pay attention to your flash read out or the histogram (not the LCD image). BRACKET SYSTEM: Like Mary Mc Henry, I now exclusively use the Stroboframe Pro T flip bracket, and all the do-dads that they make for it. You hold the camera normally as opposed to holding the bracket. Note, the Press T also works IF you are using an off camera cord as opposed to a transmitter. If you use a transmitter the Press T height extension arm won't go high enough to clear the AF IR beam and the camera won't focus well in the dark. Marked with RED numbers: 1) quick release for the flash shoe. Since Canon has idiotically seen fit to NOT provide a 1/ 4" receptacle for a light-stand mounting or bracket mount, you have to use this. 2) Quick release bracket mount. This allows you to swiftly remove the entire flash for hand holding any where you want. Push up the little lever on the end and it slides right off. 3) Canon's ST-E2 Transmitter. Eliminates any cords and allows you to remove the flash and hold it high above, way below, or off to the side of the camera for effect. It'll control up to 4 EX flashes and allows setting those flashes to different out-puts all while maintaining ETTL control. It also allows setting different channels so if you're shooting with 2 cameras or with another like equipped photographer (which I often do) one isn't triggering the other. 4) Flip out arm on stroboframe Pro T. Because the Pro T Bracket has a built in quick release plate of it's own, there isn't a nut head protruding from the bottom. This allows you to set the camera down upright. The flip out arm keeps it stable when the rig is top heavy. Marked with YELLOW numbers (bottom photo): 1) Anti-twist plate. These are made for each specific camera and assures the bracket doesn't twist under pressure (which it will with-out the device in place. 2) universal quick release plate. I've found that the Gitzo Ball head will accept this plate so that's the head I use on my wedding tripod and monopod. 3) Quick Release unit. Spring loaded and fast. Quite sturdy. Hope this helps in some way (and I hope it doesn't get deleted after all this work ; -)<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colleendonovan Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Wow! Thanks Marc!!! I wanted to get a bracket before I go to my brother-in-law's wedding to try it out and I couldn't decide which one I wanted to get. I've heard so many people use the Pro-T that I thought I'd give it a try. I have a Stofen diffuser, but I loved the photo you posted of the brides dress with the Lumiquest. If only I lived in a town that had someplace I could buy all this stuff. I guess I'll drive another 3 hours. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografz Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Order it from B&H photo in NYC. They close today at noon and aren't open on Sat., but are open for orders on Sunday which would ship on Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colleendonovan Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Okay, so tell me if I have everything. I need an off camera shoe cord, the bracket, the flash shoe mount and the quick release thing and the anti-twist plate for the camera. I looked at the different plates, but none of them specified the 10D. Is the generic one made for most 35mm cameras okay? Or will a different one work better? Do you know? Thanks Marc!!! Or anyone else who cares to answer who knows what they're talking about! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 Thanks Marc, you're a big help with the product shots (mostly better than my best tries :)). Colleen, the one thing you didn't mention is the quick release for either the flash or the camera. Yes, the generic 35mm anti-twist works great. I have the same aexact system as Marc. I have used it for all my (digital) recent work and love the speed/flexibility. Watch out for the cord, I hear they are prone to let your flash go every so often. The ST-E2 is the preferred method here. I have not used the lumiquest ProMax so that is another added item for your list, Colleen. I use a larger strobe and umbrella if I need broader light. That is only because I already have lots of them and I havn't liked the velcro on the 550ex idea (sticks to the sides in my cases). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 BTW, Marc, I see you have replaced your red plastic cover on the ST-E2. Any reason why/why not to have it in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografz Posted June 18, 2004 Share Posted June 18, 2004 It's not red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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