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Choosing studio strobes


joey

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Ok... I'm not new to studio flash. I use them quite a bit, but up to

now I don't own my own set. I'd like to get a good, solid set of

strobes so that I can develop my skills without having to borrow

somebody else's lights.

 

What I want is a setup that is relatively cheap (around $600 max),

but one that I can grow and add on to in the future. I don't really

want to waste time or money with lower end systems like Photogenic

or Novatron. Also, since I'd like to start cheap and add lights as I

go along, I want to go with a pack-and-head system instead of

monolights (unless you guys can convince me otherwise!).

 

Right now, I'm looking at used Speedotron Brownline or Norman sets--

leaning towards Speedotron. I can't afford Blackline or Profoto

stuff at the moment (student budget). Power is not a huge concern;

600ws would be plenty, and I can live with 400. I want lights that

allow different modifiers (mainly grids, snoots, and softboxes), and

I need them to be reliable (they should still be usable 5 or 10

years from now.

 

I found a good looking Speedotron D300 pack with three heads. The

price is right in my range, allowing for additional accessories

(medium, large, and small softboxes). Is this a good option? I know

it's small and low powered, but it seems perfect for my needs right

now. Any reason I shouldn't go for this?

 

Also, the Norman P800D pack looks excellent, although pricier. What

I'm concerned about is the lack of availability of used gear,

compared to Speedotron. Is this an issue?

 

Finally, where should I look for used lighting gear? KEH, B&H, and

Adorama don't have too much, and even Ebay is looking scanty.

 

Thanks for your advice! I really appreciate it.

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A D300 has to be quite old. I would be careful. You can probably get a newer D402 pack and 2 or 3 heads for your budget amount. The Browlines are a great value but they have also been around a long time. Switches can sometimes fail, connectors will break, capacitors can fail. Everything is repairable but repairs could easily exceed your budget. I would recommend trying to get the M11 heads if you can afford them. They use a conventional speedring mount that is the same as the Blackline mounts. This means more choices for accessories. The M90 head is useable, just not as flexible as the M11.
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Your strobe pack is probably the next important item next to your camera, my advice to

you is not to skim on it when you do decide to buy one. You don't want it to go out on

you when you are on a shoot. Photography is an industry where you REALLY get what you

pay for and with 600, that is going to be risky. I shoot with Profoto, but if I had to choose

between Speedos and Normans, I would go with Speedos. Also, try Dyna Lites. They are

inexpensive new and well made.

 

Just my advice.

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<cite>

Also, since I'd like to start cheap and add lights as I go along, I want to go with a pack-and-head system instead of monolights</cite>

<p>

There are good reasons for choosing pack/head systems, but I don't think that's a particularly strong one. Monolights let you add

more lights at any time, with no limit to the number of lights

you can add, and the nice thing is that each light you add comes with

its own powerpack and doesn't take any power away from the

other lights. If you find you were underpowered in your

initial estimation, you can buy a more powerful light for

your key, and relegate your older light(s) to fill usage --

conversely, if you've got lots of power, you can add a low

powered light for background, fill, hair, whatever.

<p>

Also, they're each individually adjustable, usually

over a wide range. Furthermore, if one quits in the middle of

a shoot, you still have all the others. If the pack of your

pack/head system dies, all the heads die with it.

<p>

Pack/head systems are nice because they keep most of the weight

on the floor instead of on the light stand, especially important

for hairlights or things you want to put on a boom. Also, all the

controls are on the floor instead of on the lightstand, which

can sometimes be much more convenient.

<p>

Finally, there's no law that says you can't mix and match a pack/head

system with monolights, though it may somewhat

limit the interchangability of accessories and

such. If you start with a low-powered pack/head,

you might add a powerful monolight as your key, since it's going

to be up front and on a regular stand, while you can use your

pack/head for hairlight on a boom, fill, background, etc.

<p>

I'm not trying to steer you hard, just throwing out a

few more possibilities.

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I've been using a Norman P800D system for several months, and am very pleased with the performance. I have used both dual and triple light configurations, and have never experienced a lack of power. The auction sites often have Norman packs listed. The P800D was a workhorse pack for several years, and while many have chosen to keep their setups there is a good amount of used equipment available. Of course, the entire series is also still available new. One of the major disadvantages is the weight. The pack will give you a good workout if you are carrying it around.

 

Norman also makes a wide variety of accessories for the 900 Series; you'll have no problems finding reflectors, adapters, etc.

 

Another option that may very well fit your budget is AlienBees monolights. They're affordable, light, and a very good performer for the money. You can start small and add lights as your requirements and budget allow.

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Hello,

I totally agree with Richard, but really, it depends alot on what kind of photography you are going to do! Lighting is one of those things you should not skimp on, and my advice is if you dont have enough money at the moment, save up and buy right from the get go! Mono lights are nice because I personally find them much more useable on location, whether it be photographing a wedding, a car show, or whatever. Not only that, but with a slave, you are not as limited as to where you can put the lights or how you can arrange them. One drawback to monos that I have noticed is that you need quite heavy duty stands/booms with them. Not too big of a problem though. I shoot/have shot with both pack systems and monos, and if I were going to be buying a new system from scratch, I would go with the monolights. The only exception would be if the lighting system was going to be for a full time camera room where I would have track lighting. The last thing I cannot stress enough is BUY QUALITY! And if you do go with monolights, it is not a good idea to mix brands! Again, you get what you pay for!

My $.02, Patrick

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Thanks everybody!

I use monolights quite a bit--two Photogenics that work pretty well. However, I still think that a pack and head system is better for my needs. For now, this will be used mostly as a still life and head/shoulders portrait setup, and occasionally location portraits. I want to buy a good, solid pack, and then add extra lights as a need them (and can afford them!). Adding an extra monolight of the same quality costs quite a bit more than adding an extra head to a pack.

 

Now I'm looking more towards a Speedo D402 pack. What would I expect to pay for one of these used in good condition? Also, for the Norman pack, which heads will work with it?

 

Thank you!

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One of the questions you should ask yourself.<br>

<br>

Are the lights going to be stowed, moved, setup, and taken-down repetatively?

<br>

A monolight system will do that a lot easier (imho). They are lighter

to haul, and you can add to them over time. An advantage is that

you don't have to replace the pack when you want to go up in power, since each light is it's own "pack" you can mix and match as need.

<br><br>

I've used the Norman pack, the Novatron 240D, and the Alien Bees 800 monolights.

<br>

I prefer the ABs. For the feature and usage set they are good

for the price. Or you can get the White Lightning Monos (made by the

same company). The 320ws (actual on each head) is $280 for AB-800 and $330 for UZ-800 or $400 for X800 at WL. Slightly different features on each unit. I'd go with either the AB or the X, the UZ doesn't offer much for the price difference.

<br><br>

The biggest advantages I've found:

<br>

a) you can set each lights output independantly over a 5 stop range, most pack systems I've seen are either all up or 2 settings max.

<br>

b) the modeling lights (although a little weak at 150w on the AB)

can be set to track head output, wink on firing (visual confirm

of firing), be full on, or full off.

<br>

c) the AB have built in fans (QUIET fans)

<br>

d) the AB have a remote control system that you can control all the

functions of each light from the camera, with up to 16 lights in 16 banks, but come with built in slaves and corded capability. (full set of 4 recievers and transmitter is $500).

<br>

e) you can start small and add as you need.

<br>

 

You might want to look at the modifiers and light stands they offer, the price is good and the quality is very good. I picked up a 48" brolley box for $40,

a 30x60 softbox for $130, and an umbrella for $30.

<br>

Just something else to look at ....

<br>

Wish you luck,

<br>Greg

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I have also used both pack and monolight systems, and prefer the monolights. I use a mix of White Lightning and Photogenic strobes. I also use Pocket Wizards for radio controled firing, so the only cords going to the lights are for power. As mentioned above, the lights are individualy adjustable, and it is easy to use one to however many lights you need. The Pocket Wizards radio control let me position the lights anyplace I need, including the far reaches of auditoriums, rafters, or whatever. Can't do that with pack/head systems.
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