ttl vs. pc

[d_b10]

Hey everyone. I am going to be purchasing a stroboframe bracket for

my camera, that way the flash will be above the lens at all times

whether the shot is vertical or horizontal. I will need a cable to

connect my camera to the flash, and here's where I need the advice...

Right now my sb-24 is set on ttl (on my hotshoe), and whenever I

change the focal length of my zoom lens, I can here the speedlight

zooming also. I'm guessing this is so the pictures don't end up

washed out, because I have been happy with all the pictures I have

taken with this flash.

 

One option I have is to get an adapter for my hotshoe to give my

camera (n80) a pc output so I can use a pc cord to connect my camera

to my flash. Here's where I am confused. If I use a pc cord, will my

flash still understand to compensate for how close I am to the

subject, or will I find my pictures too washed out or not enough

flash? Is the compensating feature only for a ttl connection? If that

is the case, I could get something like the nikon sc-17 so the

connection stays as ttl.

 

If someone could help me understand the differences between these

connections, and help me figure out which is the better way to go, I

would really appreciate it. Thank you.

[ellis_vener_photography]

<I> If I use a pc cord, will my flash still understand to compensate for how

close I am to the subject, or will I find my pictures too washed out or not

enough flash? </I><P>No.<P><I>Is the compensating feature only for a ttl

connection?</I><P>Yes.<P>

A pc connection is only an extention of the switch in the flash thta fires the

flash when it is closed. The SC-17 is tradign dta with the TTL metering circuit

in the camera.

[hal_bissinger]

The SC-17 is made for this purpose. It is an "extension cord" that allows you to remove your flash from the hotshoe yet retain all functionality. With A PC connection you will lose all TTL functions since it will only fire the flash. <p>

-Hal

[steve_muntz]

PC is great for working manually like you would in a studio but it just sends a signal to fire the flash, that's it. Get the SC-17 for your Stroboframe (and don't forget the anti-twist plates) or better yet, get the shortened version from Kirk or Really Right Stuff.

 

The SC17 is about 3' long so you'll have to coil it up when using it on a Stroboframe. The shortened cords are a little less than 1' long and are easier to work with.