Vibration reduction with a 500/4 + 2x Extender

[alan_wilder1]

Anyone know of a way to virtually elliminate camera shake from mirror

slap with an F100 and a 500/4 + 2x converter mounted on a Kirk King

Cobra head with a Gitzo 1327 tripod? The Bogen long lens support is

of no benefit.

[joseph_smith3]

I hope this help. On my n90s camera,500mm P mf lens, and the TC-301, and the King Cobra on a Gitzo 1325, I use the self timer as a means of eliminating mirror slap and any vibration I might be causing by touching the shutter. Sometimes I use the electronic cable release when I do not want to touch the shutter button and when the self timer is not a viable option. I do not know if the self timer mechanism on the F100 moves the mirror as it reportedly does on the n90s. You could call Nikon and ask them or call a camera repair store and see what they think might help. Let us know what you find out. Joe Smith

[jay_.]

I own and love my 3 one-owner Nikon Photomic Ftn's and dozen manual-focus lenses so I'm entitled to tell it like it is on the Nikon forum:

 

All the mid-level and up EOS bodies have mirror pre-release via a custom function. The EOS 500/4 has Image Stabilization. I had it up to here with Nikon's ridiculous incompatibilities and omissions in their AF lineup (no databus teleconverters or extension tubes for non-AFS lenses for one glaring example)and have not been sorry one moment that I switched. Nikon's still up to their stupid tricks: the latest film and mid-level DSLR's won't even meter with non-CPU lenses. The most embarassing thing is, I can mount all my manual Nikkors on my EOS Digital Rebel with an adaptor and get stopdown metering. On a D100 or D70 I'd need a handheld meter. Nikon just won't ever get their sh-t together.

[jemini_joseph]

Alan<br>

This is one of the reason I bought F5. Just for MLU and Color Matrix metering. Now that I bought Gitzo G1548 tripod, I don't use MLU that often. I'm sure better tripod will help. Here's a shot taken with 500mm+TC-20E at 1/10 sec without cable release or MLU. This is not the sharpest shot. Please be aware that this is scanned with LS-30, a very soft scanner and Velvia 100, which itself is little softer than Velvia 50 <br>

<a href="http://www.color-pictures.com/display.asp?rollid=248&frameno=22" target="w-2"><img src="http://www.color-pictures.com/images/birds/Other%20Birds/248_22_TurkeyVulture_m.jpg"</a><br>

Good luck

[john_carter_rhodes]

Jay, how well do your FD lenses meter on your EOS? I've always looked forward to switching to Canon for backward compatibility......in fact that why I traded my Canon EOS gear for Nikon.

 

John.

[joseph_smith3]

Hi Alan, I forgot to mention something else that is important to reduce vibrations. Art Morris and others have written about long lens techniques to minimize and absorb vibrations. I suggest you check out his web site,www.birdsasart.com . I believe he and others recommend draping your left arm over the long lens barrell and other such techniques. Some nature shooters would disagree with my earlier recommendation about the use of the self timer--just use your finger while holding the camera close to your face. This way your hand and face absorb some of the vibrations. I use both sets of techniques depending on the situation.

 

I would go to www.naturescapes.net and www.naturephotographers.net check out their postings or articles under long lens technique.

 

I too am upset with Nikon as is another contributor. However, we have to learn to how to live with what we got. I cannot afdford to make a switch to Canon or to the newer Nikon VR lenses. I have learned to get very good results using my MF 500mm with the two mf tcs and Velvia 50 film. If your lens is a 500mm AF and you are using the AF tcs with your F100, yopu ought to be able to get excellent images. Good luck. Joe Smith

[david_h._hartman]

Try B. Moose Petersons site and look for his

recommendation for proper long lens technique. Here is a link...<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.moose395.net/" target="_new"><u>Moose

Peterson's Wildlife Research Photography</u></a><br>

<br>

You'll find answers under Photo How To Tips or something similar.<br>

<br>

There can be surprising differences between tripods and even a

big tripods like the Bogen 3068 with an 8x10" 2-Way Sinar

head can dance in the wind a bit. The 3068 is a video tripod with

stainless steel lower legs. I think it weighs about 7K (15.5 lb.)

with head. The interface of the tripod collar to the tripod head

is very important, soft cork sucks. I like Wimberley's clamps and

especially their plates... <br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.tripodhead.com/clamps.html" target="_new"><u>Winberly

Quick Release Clamps</u></a><br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.tripodhead.com/plates.html" target="_new"><u>Winberly

Quick Release Plates</u></a><br>

<br>

The Wimberley plates have a shallow channel down the center that

improves stability with some of Nikon's wimpy tripod collar feet.<br>

<br>

Also check out Bjørn Rørsletts website...<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com" target="_new"><u>Nærfoto

Bjørn Rørslett</u></a><br>

<br>

and his article...<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/tripod_collar_rev00.html"

target="_new"><u>Tripod Collar Blues: The Good, the Bad, and the

Ugly</u></a><br>

<br>

Your lens is featured at the bottom of page 3.<br>

<br>

You can be sure a 1,000mm lens will find the weakest point in

your system and do a little dance right there.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[david_h._hartman]

Here is the link at Moose Petersons site<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.moose395.net/howto/longlens.html"

target="_new"><u>Proper Long Lens technique</u></a> <br>

<br>

Dave.

[joseph_smith3]

Here is a link to E. J. Pieker's article on long lens technique. Joe Smith

http://www.naturephotographers.net/ejp0801-1.html

[david_h._hartman]

Thanks Joseph Smith! I recommend printing and saving this

article.<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturephotographers.net/ejp0801-1.html"

target="_new"><u>http://www.naturephotographers.net/ejp0801-1.html</u></a>

<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturephotographers.net" target="_new"><u>http://www.naturephotographers.net</u></a>

<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave.

[alan_wilder1]

Thanks guys, those articles look great. My only other question for those that use the listed techniques is how they work on speeds between 1/30 and 1/2 sec?

[manuel_weber]

My experience with those shutter speeds (1/30 or 1/2) and the F100 with a Sigma 500/4.5 is that whenever you use a teleconeverter (either 1.4x or a 2x) some softness will always appear even with the better long lens technique (I have tried even putting a bean-bag over the lens to further damp vibrations). The lack of MLU in this marvelous camera (the F100) is probably its major drawback when using it in conjunction with a long lens. I prove this myself when using the D100 instead of the F100 with the its equivalent of MLU (a think is called "anti-mirror shake function"). A lot more "keepers" with this combination.