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Comparison of OM bodies


david_clark4

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Hi. I fell into Olympus photography by accedent using a OM10. Now I'm

thinking maybe I should step up to a better body, but which one? I

like simple cameras, very seldom use the on-board light meter and so

I'm not interested in a computerized camera. On the other hand, I

don't want something so old I can't buy a battery for it. I don't need

anything fancy, but I would like a pro-quality body with options. I've

got a small collection of lenses I could put to use. I'd like to have

a camera that is not dependent on a battery too. Thanks

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I believe the only Olympus OM body that meets all your criteria is the OM-3. These were very expensive, and they didn't exactly fly off the shelves so you may have to do some searching to find one.

 

An OM-1 or 1n can be modified to use currently available batteries, or used with readily available, inexpensive hearing aid batteries. If you use hearing aid batteries, they would have to be replaced every few months. If you rarely use the built-in meter, I wouldn't install batteries at all. By the time you remember to check on them, they might have leaked.

 

Personally, I don't worry so much about battery dependence. I sold my OM-1n and replaced it with an OM-2n last year. The batteries in the OM-2n will probably last at least a year or two with my (fairly low volume) usage.

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OM-1/OM-1n if you're worried about batteries (don't be). OM-2n if you don't mind battery dependence (it uses commonly available batteries). Either can be found affordably in good condition.

 

The OM-1 is all manual only. The OM-2n offers autoexposure (still among the best ever designed) with full manual override.

 

It's impossible to detail all the significant differences here. You can find info all over the web.

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I would echo James's remarks. An OM1 or OM1n would be the least battery-dependent affordable model, and if you do want a TTL meter then you ought to buy one that has the little adapter fitted. The lack of complex circuit boards ey are also easily repaired, unlike some later models, where parts are no longer available.

 

Bear in mind that most cameras should have a service/CLA periodically, and if yours hasn't had one for some years then it may be money well spent. I don't know about other countries, but in the UK the battery adapter is fitted free to OM1s when they are serviced. They will also replace any of the lightproof foam around the back door seal; this goes gooey over time, and will indicate that a full CLA hasn't been done for quite a number of years.

 

The OM2n is an excellent alternative, offering TTL-auto metering in addition to the OM1's manual mode (but no mirror lockup). They are also suprisingly rugged. If you have plenty of cash to spend you could look for the OM3Ti, the upgraded version of the (IMHO overpriced) OM3. You might like to read some of the OM body specs at http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/bodygroup.htm

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In my experience, an OM-2 (or OM-2n) handles a lot like an OM-1 (or OM-1n) but also has aperture-priority auto mode. If you never want to use auto, the OM-2 is basically an OM-1, except without mirror lockup (as previously noted). You say that you <i>"very seldom use the on-board light meter"</i> so perhaps an OM-1 is fine for you: completely mechanical, only needs a battery for the lightmeter, so you don't even <i>need</i> a battery!! The OM-2 can only shoot at 1/60 sec if the battery fails, but (as noted above) they last over a year, and it takes the common silver oxide batteries which are not so likely to be discontinued, as was the old mercury batteries that the OM-1 uses.

<p>

I should say that I have both an OM-1n <i>and</i> and OM-2n; I have an adapter for the OM-1n so that it can also use the silver oxide batteries. I would say that both are better than the OM-10 and both should be able to be found for a reasonable price. The OM-3 (mentioned above) is a nice camera (although I've never owned one myself), but tend to be more pricey (especially the OM3-Ti, which I would buy too if they weren't so damned expensive!)...

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For taking photos, not for collection, I like the OM-4TiB best in OM one digit series. It's relatively newer and still not hard to maintain it.

Auto and Manual exposure with Spot or Center-waited metering are actually very nice for handling in the field, just not for comparing their specs.

 

The OM-3Ti has mechanical shutter, but its mirror & shutter shock is bigger than the OM-4TiB's one.

The OM-3Ti is newer than the OM-4TiB, but the manufactured number of the OM-3Ti is much more less than the one of the OM-4TiB.

Thus, it will eventually be harder to repair the OM-3Ti than the OM-4TiB even though the OM-3Ti has mechanical shutter from overall view points.

 

Needless to say, I don't have any objection against that the OM-1 and the OM-2 are both nice camera. Moreover, I am still using both of them. But it's generally harder to maintain them than the OM-4TiB and the OM-3Ti.

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My wife and I have 4 OM bodies 2 OM-1 and 2 OM-2's. The OM-2's I got very cheap on eb*y. The first OM1 my wife bought new in 1976, the 2nd one I got when my Dad died in 1993.

 

Both are great cameras. Plenty of parts around and great lenses.

 

When we travel, my wife takes an OM-1 and an OM-2 with 3 or 4 lenses. She shoots only slides. She is very happy with the results and doesn't want to change. I don't blame her.

 

I usally take my medium format cameras and a Leica but the OM-1 does well in a pinch for me when I need a long lens.

 

I solved the OM-1 battery problem with an overhaul by Camtech (www.zuiko.com). They converted the OM1s to use the 1.5V battery and recalibrate the meter. Well worth it!. They have 2 OM cameras of mine right now waiting for service (5-8 weeks lead time!) as we will use them in September on a trip to New England.

 

We are very happy with the OM1 & OM2 and can reccomend them without hesitation.

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I agree with Koichi that the OM3 is a nice camera, but you can probably panel your walls in OM1's for the price of one. The OM1 (and 1N, 2 and 2N) is also smoother and quieter than the 2S/3/4 series, if that's important. I've been running an OM1 on hearing aid batteries for about a year and a half now... it's still on its second one-dollar battery in that time.
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Hey David.

 

Non computerized = OM1 or OM3 (unless you count the metering system)

 

Current battery available = OM3 (or 'reworked' OM1)

 

Want options = OM3 spot meter capability. OM1 or OM3 can use motor drives, though the OM3 gets more use of the Motor Drive 2. Either can take a 250 back.

 

I mostly shoot MF or LF these days, however when I shoot 35mm, I use my OM3. I have been shooting OM since the early 70's and have owned or shot them all.

I currently own OM1nonMD, OM1MD, OM1n, OM2n, OM3, OM10, OMG, OM77 and OM4T cameras. Not bragging or complaining just giving an idea that I personally have experience with a broad range of the OM system.

 

The OM3 is my favorite OM body. These things did not fly off the shelves when they were introduced due to a number of things not related to the ability of the camera. However, they are good shooters. Mine has never failed in a variety of poor conditions.

 

If you can not locate an OM3 at a favorable cost, I would go for the OM1 MD and have it CLA'd and get the meter redone if you want to use it. I dont have personal experience on the meter redo. My OM1's are still accurate using mercury cells which I purchased before they were withdrawn from sale. I am down to my last 2 or 3 batteries in cold storage though :-(

 

Good luck,

 

Rick

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I'd disagree with the previous assertion that old OM 1's and 2's (and n's) are smoother and quieter than later OM's . The earlier model do have a noticably smoother wind cycle. But the later cameras have a quieter shutter cycle, and the mirror slap is better controlled. I love the smooth feel when winding my OM-2n. But the shutter release cycle on my OM-3 is silky smooth, and noticably quieter than the release on the my OM-2n. When Olympus introduced the later cameras, their advertising touted the quieter shutters, and they were right in claiming that.
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