Yashica Mat 124G

<p>All<br>

I recently received a Yashica Mat 124G bought from the 'bay. It arrived yesterday. It's a pristine copy, with a lovely case, and I have a return guarantee. I am putting the camera through its paces now.<br>

This is my first TLR, but I have medium format experience with Mamiya 645s. Lots of 35mm film experience.<br>

So, on to my problem:<br>

I got the sense of the way the film advances, with a forward 3/4 turn followed by the shutter cock. That took a bit of research and getting used to, but we're there.<br>

My issue is that after I roll the film forward subsequent to loading, and I cock the shutter. I fire off frame #1, but then when I go to advance to frame #2, the 'click-click-click' of the advance is replaced by a smoother, non-click sound and the advance rotates about 450 degrees before I get resistance, and then I can cock the shutter. However, the frame still reads Frame #1. I can then trip the shutter, and the advance proceeds to frame #2, and then onward through frame #12.<br>

I haven't developed a roll yet (that's tonight). My suspicions are that I have a double exposure on frame #1, while the rest of the frames are most likely ok.<br>

This exact situation had repeated on what is now my third roll, so I suspect something is out of alignment with the gears in the advance lever.<br>

has anyone heard of this? If so, is it easily fixable? Should I just return the camera for a full refund or ask for 'x' dollars off and get it fixed? It's a beautiful version of this venerable camera I have longed for.<br>

Thoughts?</p>

<p>My thoughts are that I would send it to Mark Hama and pay for a CLA/repair. If the seller claimed "excellent working condition" you might be able to get him to reimburse you for part of the repair. If you return it, you'll be back where you started. There's not really any way to know how much repairs will end up being unless you (or the seller) gets an estimate from a qualified repairer.</p>

 

<p>I have had a similar experience with my 124 G. When I developed the roll, I found 12 good exposures, but the first shot I had taken was not there. I surmised that I had only exposed the paper lead in. there is nothing in the manual the references this or suggests that it is supposed to be this way, but there it is. I've just decided to accept it as it produces great shots. I guess you'll know more once you develop your rolls.</p>

<p>Are you advancing the start mark on the paper backing to the start mark inside the camera? And making sure it's the right start mark (there is one for 120 and one for 220). Do you have the pressure plate turned to the 120 position and not the 220 position. Are you sure that the take-up spool is properly engaged and not maybe spinning around without pulling any film through on the first exposure or two? Not sure that any would cause the problem you're describing, but are worth checking. I would develop the rolls you've shot and see what you're getting on the film, also shoot another roll after checking the things I've mentioned and see if that makes any difference.<br /><br />If it continues to have problems, I would simply return it. As much as I love my 124G (I've had three of them) the cost of any repairs at all would likely exceed the cost of simply buying another one. A seller who agrees to pay for repairs could end up owing you more than you paid.</p>

<p>I'd just send it to Mark Hama and have it overhauled. Any used camera will need service so getting it done now will prevent surprises later on.</p>

<p>Sending back cameras and getting another will wear you out and waste a bunch of film. There's no guarantee that the next one will be any better than the first.</p>

<p>My Leica IIIF has been overhauled twice in the 12 years I've had it. First time was right after I got it and the 2nd time at about 9 years into the first overhaul. They do wear out.</p>

<p>Get your money back. "Pristine" isn't worth much if your 'Mat isn't working properly. None are newer than the late 80s and most are older. Hama is really the only repair option. My take on MF is simply to buy the newest gear in the best condition you can afford. I'd pass on TLRs for age-related issues and service access.</p>

<p>Hello everyone. The 124 can be a bear if the 120 film is not loaded correctly. Set the pressure plate for 120 and advance the film to the 120 mark. If you use the 220 mark, your frames will be off.<br>

Cock the shutter using the 10sec timer. Now advance the crank until it stops and reads #1 in the frame counter window. You will have to use the 10sec timer to expose the film, but unless you are using the camera for fast action work, this 10sec delay has it's benefits. With a tripod, all camera shake is damped,..plus use of the timer before film advancing, takes the strain off the film winding mechanism, the lethal fault of ALL YashicaMat cameras.<br>

If the above does not cure your ill's, a CLA - repair is needed.<br>

As a note, I have, and use, (3) 124's and several EM's. All 124's and one EM had CLA's after the "eb" purchase and have performed fault free since then...my original EM from 1967...still going strong, but with a few CLA's under it's belt.<br>

Enjoy, Bill</p>

 

<p>Forgot the pic. YashicaMat EM, 100 asa film, PMK development. V600 scan...very little PP work. Bill</p><div></div>

Id send it back too. I bought a classic that looked good, but didnt work, despite the

sellers claims. I paid more for the cla than the camera itself. We need to call out

these people who seem to have no idea the camera doesnt work. Its BS.

<p>I inherited an old Yashicamat from 1959 that still works 100%. I later bought a 124G and was bitterly disappointed. The lens of the 124G wasn't as sharp as the older Yashi mat's, while build quality felt inferior. The BI lightmeter was also near useless and changed reading when I waved my hand a foot above it. So IMHO, 124Gs are grossly overrated. I'd send it back for a refund and look for an older plain 'mat'.</p>

<p>Hello again. IMHO the light meters on any of the YashicaMats are junk for serious work. I use the old school Weston V's....no batteries to worry about in either item. As to "educating" the sellers on eb, good luck...90% of them are using eb as an electronic garage sale, my junk can now be your junk ! Bill</p>

<p>I had a 124G. The lens was very sharp and I took many nice pictures with it. The CdS meter was reasonably accurate if you knew what you were pointing it at. I got rid of it after repairing it twice and not wanting to repair it a third time. The camera was just not made very well mechanically. I was in High School when I got it and I had already started out with a 35mm SLR. The TLR was not as pleasant to use as my 35mm camera but the negatives were a pleasure to print. I later got a non-metered Minolta Autocord, a Yashica 635, a Yashica A and a Yashica 44. They were all made a lot better than the 124G, especially the Minolta. Today most of my medium format picture taking is done with Bronica and Mamiya SLRs. I would not get another 124G. If you like Yashicas then a Yashica Mat 124 (pre-124G) with a Yashinon lens would be a good one to look for. </p>

<p>I have 3 YashicaMat's and a YashicaMat 124 all have excellent lens and good build quality,I know I've been inside them all (for cleaning). I recently did repairs to a 124G, where once there was metal,there's now rather fragile plastic,the reason for it's needing repairs. I wouldn't touch a 124G except to keep the lens! Peter</p>

<p>The older Yashicamats (not the 124G) are better made, but because of age are more likely to require service. The lens is basically the same 4 element. Some of the cheaper Yashicas (like the A) only had a triplet so they need to be stopped down more for good results.</p>

<p>I own one of these, and I think you are describing normal behavior. When you close the camera back on a new roll of film (with the film and index marks lined up), you only have the paper backing behind the lens. You need about 3 crank rotations to bring the film into the exposure position (1). The counter now starts working. The normal crank motion (about 3/4 ahead until it stops, then back to cock the shutter) continues until exposure 12 has been made. It then cranks forward freely as you wind the paper backing off the roll.<br>

BTW, I think these are great cameras! Enjoy!</p>

<p>I think Tom did excellent explanation and I agree with him that this is normal behaviour and nothing to worry. I Have 124G and older A and they are great cameras. Enjoy it.</p>