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Which Hassy Body & Lens to Get?


dan_brown14

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I've trimmed all my film gear down to a Nikon N90s and a YashicaMat 124G. I still enjoy a

bit of B&W darkroom work, and would like a first class MF camera. Strickly a hobby deal

for me. Looking through the recent KEH catalog, I see there are some pretty decent deals

on MF gear. Question, which generation of Hassy gear is the sweet spot of price

performance? I'm looking at a body, 80mm lens, hood, and waist level finder (no meter

needed).

 

Thanks...

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The best bargains on bodies are the ELM/ELX cameras, if the extra weight is not an issue. I see them selling at the auction place for under 300 US. Otherwise, the 500CM is a workhorse. See my recent post on my experiences with a 500CM.
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The focusing screen can be changed easily in the 500cm and newer models. Acute-Matte screens are much brighter than the originals. Late model 501cm bodies are not much more expensive, and have the "gliding mirror" system which eliminates the viewfinder cutoff which occurs in the 500cm with longer lenses and/or extension tubes. 501cm bodies came with an Acute-Matte screen OEM.
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Hi There,

 

I was able to buy a super clean 501c with an 80mm lens and the accumatte screen for less

than $1000. I would suggest at a minimum that you at least make sure whatever setup you

get is very clean, as you can certainly afford to do that for under a grand.

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I think you're right on the money with a body and 80mm, and second the notion of getting an EL/M to save money. They're built like a brick, yet less money than the C/M. I bought a mint black body (less finder) for $265 on ebay. I bought a PM5 prism finder and hate it. I use the WLF all the time. The 80mm is so common that its sharpness and contrast are overlooked, but it's a great lens. Money wise, the 500 C/M and EL/M are great values. Lens wise, the black T*'s are a pretty good value, but by the time you spend a couple hundred bucks or more for CLA, you might be better off with newer versions.
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My vote would be for a 501cm with 100mm lens. You will never tire of that combination. The 100mm is sharper than the 80mm and it has a very slight telephoto look...great for portraits. The 100mm also works better with tubes for close-up work (more edge to edge sharpness). From there, if you want to, you can go wider with a 50mm or narrower field with a 180mm.
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I recently bought 2 bodies, 3 lenses, and a host of extra's all on Ebay. You will not be able to find a 501c and a CF lens for under $1000.00. You will be able to find a 500cm or 503cx with a c T* lens for that amount.(mint-) I was astounded after following all the posts about acumat D screens, and find the standard screen plenty bright enough. I have also been told that if you put a D screen in a 500cm or 503cx your exposure may be off a stop or 2. It was standard only in the 501c. You and I are serious amateur's and I don't know about you, but I couldn't afford all the Hasselblad equiptment I would like.

 

I love my C and C T* lenses, and don't pay the extra money for a CF(alot More !). I buy only Ex++ or Mint- condition pieces. Hasselblad prisms are unbelievable in the amounts of money they go for used. I bought a Kiev TTL Spot and A TTL (no spot) metered NEW prisms for well under 100 dollars and both are as acurate as my 2 handheld meters and my 3 Nikon camera's. According to this forum, they don't suggest the Kiev's. Good luck, and in my opinion, try for the 503cx with TTL Flash capability and a mint Black 80mm C T* lens.

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One caution on the EL/M and EL/X. If you get the ones with the rechargable NiCad batteries, if the battery has to be replaced, that could eat into the $ savings between the ELM and a CM.

 

I know of 4 options.

 

- The replacment batteries are $80 each at B&H or Adorama.

- There was a guys selling replacment batteries on eBay for $55 for 2, but you gotta buy the 2 batteries.

- An adapter to use a 9v transistor battery in the ELM. I think that kit is $30.

- Make an adapter/new battery yourself. There are several posts on different methods of doing this. Some are not hard, others require the ability to solder.

 

So if you get an ELM or ELX, ask if the battery is still good and holds a decent charge. If not, that might be a point to get the price down a bit more, or not bid as high.

 

Gary

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If your only getting one body and one lens heres what i would reccomend. Im a huge fan of

the 60mm distagon. It focuses closer than teh 80 so you can get less coverage like the 80

has by walking a little closer, yet at the same time, you can get more coverage because its a

wider lens. You already have a normal lens in your Yashica. If your only getting one lens, and

its not over 150mm thers no reason to get the 501 or 503 you can stay with the 500cm. That

should keep the costs down and let you buy the 60mm rather than having to settle for the

80mm. The hasselblads are more about the lens and less about the body anyways.

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