What to do about the Biotar?

<p>Just a little post. I have a nice old Carl Zeiss 58mm Biotar f/2.0 lens with Exakta mount that arrived with a collection of Exakta bits and pieces. The glass is in good shape, but it has a few strands of fungus and the pre-set aperture system is stiff with old grease, and I'd dearly love to have it serviced. Unfortunately, it's taken a knock on the filter ring that makes this procedure difficult. It's one of those nasty dents that came from the front, not only bending the rim inwards but also compressing the thread, and my local repairman has politely declined to become involved; "Once bitten, twice shy", as he quite fairly puts it. Anyway, I wanted to test an old Exa so I fitted the lens and loaded a short length of the wonderful Ilford Pan F Plus film and ventured out. Here's a pic of the rig:</p><div></div>

<p>I developed the film in Ilford ID-11, and was very impressed with the results. For a dirty old Biotar, I felt the results were exceptional, though the Pan-F Plus must be given credit. Here are just a few samples, the usual test locations, posted large as it would be pointless posting them any smaller. See what you think.</p><div></div>

<p>No.2</p><div></div>

<p>No.3</p><div></div>

<p>No.4</p><div></div>

<p>No.5</p><div></div>

<p>No.6</p><div></div>

<p>If it is stiff grease you can loosen it with a drop or two of lighter fluid through the rear of the lens, if it is anything like the Tessar of the same era.</p>

<p>Rick,<br>

You are making amazing pictures even with a scratched moldy broken glass. I can imagine what can you do with brand new Noctilux</p>

<p>Rick, take a look at Noah Schwartz' replies to this thread: http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Xhk1</p>

<p>Rick it seems like a very fine performer. My repairman in NYC would probably take a "crack at it" - no pun intended - and I think the rim would be some work but doable with straightening it out and re-threading, but the fungus ? That's always a coin toss in my book.</p>

<p>Amazing results given the circumstances. "Pickets" is my favorite - reminds me of Strand's "<a href="http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://nrs.harvard.edu/urn-3:HUAM:DDC107960_dynmc%3Fwidth%3D560%26height%3D560&imgrefurl=http://www.harvardartmuseums.org/art/331744&h=436&w=560&sz=49&tbnid=UGKv9xdXck-bjM:&tbnh=93&tbnw=120&zoom=1&usg=__dxEDDqdPkRlplN8YUGr5ql_o9NY=&docid=xPCNaqAIoX5J7M&sa=X&ei=8_MFUdTVN6WH0QG74oHYAw&ved=0CD4Q9QEwAw&dur=527">Picket Fence</a>", and in fact, there is a very "Paul Strand" look to the series as a whole - which I consider very high praise.</p>

<p>This is my all-time favorite lens, anyhow. I wouldn't be so sure that a Noctilux would beat this old classic aside from factors related to coatings (see Keppler's comments at <a href="http://keppler.popphoto.com/blog/2007/04/inside_straight.html">link</a> for example).</p><div></div>

<p>True to Biotar's reputation, of course in your deft hands. The rear group comes off in one threaded tube. The tube is sealed. You can clean the three exposed outer surfaces with household Ammonia and peroxide [50-50 mixed just before applying]. The fungus will come clean. Then you may use distilled water to clean and blow dry. I hope the fungus is only in these rear surfaces! I found the front part a bit difficult in these old lenses. The logo ring [though plastic] is a little difficult to remove. If you can manage that the then you will be able to clean the remaining three surfaces too. Also, I place the lens in direct Sunlight at the window. It inhibits the fungus growth. The biotar's construction is very similar to that of the Pancolar. When I open the back in the pancolar I am able to reach the helicals for cleaning with Petrol or alcohol, without dismantling or disturbing its position.<br>

I hope you will have a good restoration done at home, <strong>Rick</strong>! Thanks for the lovely pictures! sp</p>

<p><strong>Rick !</strong> From the photo of the camera the filter ring does not appear to be skewed, badly. If you have a lens vise you could straighten most of it. Then I would try some grease on the threads and use a plastic adapter ring 49 to 52 mm. Usually the plastic rings yield a little and fit into even damaged grooves. Then you could use 52mm filters for the lens, instead of the standard 49mm. Of course, if you are a purist, then you won't try any of these! Good luck. sp</p>

<p>The lens is nice and sharp. I've had similar experiences w/ lenses that have light fungus/haze. Just keep the lens away from direct sun when shooting, and ck on the internals now and then to see if anything changes. My Elmarit R 90 lens has some light fungus starting to appear (as most of the R 90 Elmarits do), and it performs admirably, as long as I take the above precautions.</p>

<p>Fine results, as always, Rick. Despite the lens' afflictions, it just goes to show that the most important part of the camera is the 12" behind the viewfinder.</p>

<p> Your post brings up a couple issues - <br>

1) Exakta addiction : I've never been a big fan of Exaktas, but lately I've been buying various lenses in Exakta mount for use on my DSLR. Meyers, Ludwigs, Kilfitts, Steinheils... What are your favorite Exakta body and lens combos to shoot with ? Have you given your recent Meritar acquisition good run yet? I like it's daintiness on the Canon. The corners are soft wide-open, and pretty darn sharp at smaller aps.<br>

2) Repair : I'm getting rid of a Schneider Xenon 50/1.9 for the same reason - sticky diaphragm, stiff focus due to drop.... I would've had Essex work on , but, lamentably, my favorite repair center is out of business. With a lack of a reliable, inexpensive, and nearby camera repair shop, I might be forced to unload some of the sub-par gear that's been stockpiled.<br>

For those of us in the States, I'd like Ralf to kindly share his lens repair connection. I have several lenses of the Exakta persuasion that were to be overhauled by Essex before Hurricane Sandy hit. </p>

 

<p>Sure is a great lens as many are now discovering. I had to get through quite a few samples before I found one that was free of cloudiness, and could also move the focus ring!<br>

The lubrication on these alloy bodied lenses seem to be their Achilles heel, and that's probably what causes the fog as well.<br>

Your combination really works, seems to suit the Pan F+ which is a bit of a sleeper film these days, just hope that Ilford continue to make it. I process this film in Rodinal 1:50 and get really nice results but I guess the ID11 would give a bit less contrast and grain.</p>

<p>I agree with JDM, the white picket fence shot is really nice.</p>

<p>Stunning pictures Rick. I must get out and use my Pentacon D with its Biotar.</p>

<p>The images are stunning Rick and shows of your amazing ability to eek out the best from a fungus ridden lens. I think this is probably worth having repaired as I can only imagine even more wonderful images when all fixed!</p>

<p>Thanks for all the helpful information and links. Unfortunately, there appears to be threads of fungus throughout the lens, so to clean it properly a complete disassembly would be necessary. Until the problem with the dented filter ring is resolved, it would be impossible to remove the beauty/logo ring and front elements. I have straightened out a few bent rims by cutting a semicircle the exact diameter of the rim from a thin piece of wall board, seating the lens in the cutout and tapping with a shaped wooden drift, but in this instance the crushing of the threads makes it a little more of a challenge. The lens vice thinggy does seem to work, but it pays to place a thin plastic or cardboard pad between the jaws and the rim, according to an erudite friend of mine. Better for gradual, large diameter re-shaping, perhaps.<br /> <br /> The other problem is the sticky aperture ring. The pre-set controls mounted at the front of the lens were frozen when the lens arrived, and several application of lighter fluid were needed over a period of several days before I could get any movement. As it is, it's stiff to move, at best, and reverts to a very sticky state if left unmoved for a week. The focus is surprisingly smooth. The Biotar seem to be quite an expensive lens in this day and age, and I'd like to have it working, but I'm just not sure I have the expertise to correct all the faults, or the resources to send it overseas for an overhaul.</p>

<p>Thanks for the favourable comments regarding the images. I'd really posted them only to show the technical qualities of the lens and film, without much regard to the aesthetics. To be compared to Paul Strand by<strong> JDM</strong> is very high praise indeed. I'll readily admit that I'm a great admirer of his work and technique...<strong>Gabor</strong>, I've only recently acquired a few items of Exakta gear, and I don't think I'll pursue the marque . Much as I admire the construction and finish and the quirky design, I find them difficult cameras to use. I haven't tried out the Meritar, though I have it it other mounts and recall that it's a very good triplet. Other than the Biotar, I have a couple of Domiplans and and a Primotar E, and a few 135mm lenses of odd makes with T-Mounts, for which I have the Exacta attachment.</p>

<p>Gabor - My repair man (Yefim) owns and operates Panorama camera on W30th Street, between 6 & 7th ave. They are on the 3rd floor.</p>

<p>Nice work even though the lens needs some TLC. Good luck with your repair and thanks for posting.</p>