What filter do I need when photographing in snowy conditions?

<p>I plan to go out with my D300s and 35 f/2D lens next time we get some snow. I only use CP's so I don't think that's an option. Which filter would you use for snowy conditions? The filter would be used to protect the lens from moisture. Been looking at Nikon's 52mm NC filter but there are many options. Do I really need an expensive filter or would a lower cost one do as well for this environment?</p>

<p>Hoya multicoated UV filters are very good and cost a bit less than Nikon's. I've also used Kenko protective filters in situations where I was concerned about sticky tree sap - the Kenkos are good and cheap enough to replace. The only familiar name brand filters I'd avoid are Tiffens.</p>

<p>Somewhere out there online is a website showing the results of tests of protective type filters. If I'm recalling correctly the Hoyas tested very well, with their top shelf filters testing better than B+W and pricier filters. Can't recall the URL but perhaps someone else can.</p>

<p>Take it from me, a guy who has been photo'ing in the blizzards of the Dakotas & Minnesota for the past 20 years. I love winter. I love blizzards & snow. On our family summer vacations we often go to places where it snows! (Iceland, Arctic Canada.) I don't use any filter at all. Snow is a solid, not a liquid. I do use a lenshood always, and that alone keeps most all of the snow off the lens. When I'm not shooting I use a lenscap. Those completley cover the end of the lens and nothing gets in. If snow does get on the lens I just use a soft lens brush to get rid of it. Honestly, you are worrying too much here. You would be stunned at some of the conditions I shoot in, and yet my lenses are perfect. If it works right, below are two photos. The first shows my Nikon D300 sitting out on a tripod with Nikon 17-55mm f2.8 attached. The wind was blowing snow sideways at nearly 60 mph. The conditions were so poor even the trains were stopping. Lens & camera were perfectly fine. Second shot shows a BNSF snowplow pushing tons of snow, some in clumps the size of a basketball. Immediately after taking this shot, I and camera were hit with a wall of snow weighing several tons moving 30 mph. The force of the snow knocked the camera from my hands and I had to find and dig it out. Lens & camera were perfect. I'm using expensive lenses out here for this kind of stuff, and never ever had a problem not using a filter. I've done this kind of stuff all the time, over the past 20 years.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p><div></div>

<p>The second shot, of the plowing train:</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p><div></div>

<p>Mark, Lex. A very good Christmas to you both. The website is Lenstip.com in Poland, and the article is <a href="http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html">here</a>.</p>

<p>As lex said, the Hoya HMC filters were rated top in this test. It should be mentioned that UV absorbtion was the most critical factor in the rating, and although Marumi filters did quite badly in this respect, they'd serve extremely well as lens protectors.</p>

<p>Edit: Merry Xmas to you too Kent. Didn't mean to leave you out, but you posted while I was still composing my reply.</p>

<p>I shoot skiing on occasion, have for quite a few years. I rarely, if ever, use a protective filter. That said, just like Kent, I am a full believer in proper hoods.</p>

<p>Ditto on the hoods & lens caps. Rarely use protective filters these days.</p>

<p>Kent has a good point about the snow conditions and the experience to back it up. I seldom have a chance to shoot in the snow here in Texas (altho' Christmas day was one of those rare exceptions). I've definitely found protective filters to be useful when shooting under leaky trees and similarly gunky conditions. But snow, maybe not so much. Yesterday when I went outdoors to snap a few photos in the snow, even without a lens hood nothing stuck to the lens front element.</p>

<p>Kent, great pictures—especially the snow plow one and the story that goes with it. Thanks.</p>

<p>Kent in MI</p>

<p>You may need to practice keeping your warm camera closed up in a camera bag (or plastic gallon-size zip lock bag) so it will have a chance to get cold and not form condensation on the lens-camera body. Same thing when you return inside, seal up your camera-lens, so it will have a chance to go from a cold temp. to a warmer inside temp.</p>

<p>The filter may be good or not. The real *fun* is getting your exposure right, so the snow is white. Most camera meters tend to try for a *grey* color with white snow. Meter off your hand or take a sheet of brown cardboard out with you. Bracket your shots and you should be good with the results.</p>

<p>[And, I am in Florida now, but in 1984-1987, I was stationed in central Alaska....]</p>

<p> </p>

<p>As a long-term resident of northern Canada, I would like to add +1 to Jerry's comments above.</p>

<p>The biggest threat to your camera body (and lenses) when bringing them in from the cold will be condensation. As any builder knows, moisture travels from warm to cold. The dew point will doubtlessly be on the frame of your camera (inside and outside) when you bring cold equipment into a warm home. </p>

<p>I have dealt with this successfully for many years by putting a plastic bag inside my nylon camera bags (and lens bags). When I am going into the house (or getting back into the truck), I will tightly curl the plastic bags, then zip closed the nylon bags. Back at home, I leave the camera and gear to warm for several hours before exposing it to interior warm air.</p>

<p>Snow on the camera and lens in the field can be brushed and blow free. It is not as great a threat as is condensation.</p>

<p>And I agree with Jerry's other point: if you are unaccustomed to exposing images in snow, you will have to add between +1 and +2 EV to ensure you don't end up with grey snow and muddy everything else.</p>

<p> </p>

FWIW, I had a friend years back who used to photograph a lot of ski clothing and lodge catalogues. He used to tell me he

used a polarizer to cut reflections on the bright blue days and to bring out the deeper blue sky.