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What ARE watt-seconds, anyway?


amul

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(see subject line). I have no idea what they mean in relationship to

my camera. From what I can tell, my Interfit 350 w/s flash seems to

give me the exact same portrait lighting as the 1600 w/s White

Lightnings used at the studio I'm working at.

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Watt-seconds, or joules, are a measure of energy -- watts x seconds. It is calculated from the voltage and capacitance of the power supply -- joules = V^2xC, where V = volts, and C = capacitance in farads.

 

Energy is related to the total amount of light produced by the flash tube. Normally, that light is collected and focused by a reflector. The same power, in joules, can result in different exposure levels, depending on how the light is distributed.

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Steve,

 

The point I'm trying to make is that there are too many variables to make generalities about the amount of light at 10 feet or whatever -- the reflector angle, focus point, diffusion, modifiers... The beauty and curse of studio lights is the flexibility to deliver light where you need it. That's being practical, not vague.

 

I am comfortable that a 1000 joule flash has more energy (and light)than a 300 joule flash -- energy that is there when I need it and turned down when I don't. As a scientist, I am comfortable that an arc through a pressurized gas converts a reasonably predictable amount of the electrical energy into light (notice I do not use the terms power and energy interchangeably). As a practical photographer, I know that what counts in the chase is the amount (intensity x duration) of light reaching the subject, which is why I use a meter.

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Ahhh.. Whitelightning model numbers are based on "effective watt seconds" which as far as I can tell are complete BS marketing numbers. The X1600 actually has 660 true watt-seconds, so it should be slightly less than one stop brighter than the interfit assuming the effiency of the bulbs are the same as well as the reflectors, distance, etc.
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So if folks are confused with strobes and watt seconds; you could just use edison lamps; which are rated in watts; and lumens too; at your grocery store :) Note that a bare bulb is less effective than one with a reflector. Notice that a flurescent bulb has more lumens per watt. Notice that an edison base 25 watt bulb has less lumens per watt; than a 100 watt bulb does. Common household lights that are 100 watts; have a slightly higher color temp; than a 25 watt bulb.
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watt seconds is the energy stored in the flash capacitor. When the Xenon tube is fired; some is lost in heat. Another heat loss is in the UV filter. The efficiency of the tube can vary with tube temperature; DC voltage across it; way it is triggered. Then the "light" energy released is not all visible. Then there is the UV filter; how good is it? Has it degraded; has it fallen off? Then there is the reflector size; shape; how clean it is; how reflective the "reflector" is. Then there the zoom fresnel "telephoto" deal on some portable strobes; that focuses the beam abit narrower. <BR><BR>Then there is the strobe makers specs; are they fluff; or somewhat OK?<BR><BR>Watt SEConds; not W/S.<BR><BR>watts per second is the rate of change in power; the slope of a power versus time plot; at a certain point of time.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Watt-seconds are joules and they only tell you how much power/energy in stored in the capacitor banks, not much else. It will give you an idea how far you can get, but not completely.

 

There are a ton of factors in the effective light a flash outputs. The cone of light, fall-off, ramp up and down of the flash, whether it is cut off or allows the capacitors to fully discharge, the reflector quality and surfacing, is there a fresnel lens in front, flash tube length, flash tube shape, age of tube...etc.

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