What about focus in Action?

Please tell me everything that you know a bout getting good focus in action

shots??? I am getting blur still, but great shots with my new lens(Canon 200mm

f2.8 L). Thanks.

Terry

Can you post an example? Is it focus blur, or motion blur? If you're at f/2.8, you have very shallow depth of field, so focus is indeed critical. What camera body are you using? Need a little more to go on, here.

I have a Canon Digital Rebel XT

I don't know how to upload pictures so they show in here, but I did upload you one sample picture.

I may have been in Al Servo mode there, but Itried that and one shot mode.

The fact that nothing is in-focus here, leads me to believe that the photo is suffering mostly from camera-shake. You are at 200 mm (35 mm equivalent = 300 mm) and a shutter speed of 1/250. You have to be pretty steady to hand-hold a shot under those conditions, particularly for subject a good distance away. I would recommend increasing the ISO to get a faster shutter, or possibly a monopod (or tripod) to steady the camera.

Terry,

 

To get your photo to show inline on the page, keep it under 511px per side and add a caption, even if you just add "here's my photo".

 

I'm pretty sure that the problem with the photo you posted is camera shake. You were shooting at 200mm with a shutter speed of 1/250th sec, which in theory should be sufficient -- but I'm guessing you weren't using an image-stabilized lens, and in any case, image-stabilization isn't fool-proof. If you move the camera when you press the shutter, well the whole shot's going to go blurry.

 

Solution? Stabilize the camera. Use a tripod, or at least a monopod, if you can. Get an image stabilized lens, if you can. Increase the ISO so you can increase your shutter speed. And practice your shutter technique so that you can take a sharp picture -- stay calm, press slowly and smoothly, sort of pinching the shutter between your thumb and pointer finger rather than relying entirely on your pointer finger to push the shutter (and thus the entire camera) downwards.

Hi, I forgot. I was using a monopod and ISO was at 800.

I like the pinching shutter solution though. I will try that tonight.

One thing I'd suggest is to try to shoot as close to head-on as much as possible, ie with the action coming at you. Obviously a challenge if you stay at the end zone and its especially dark down there. I try to get a little downfield, so to speak, from the action for offensive players, and behind the line for defensive players. Shooting at the same yardline the players are on, laterally, so to speak, is kinda hard unless they're coming down the line at you.

Also aim your focus point to something and not infinity as your sample (thats why it is not in focus). I would consider, manually select a focus point (ie. center, the best). Aim that focus point to the subject and over frame it to accomendate the focus point. Crop the picture when you are back at the computer.

Terry, a monopod is better than hand-held, if you use it well. But it's still not a guarantee that the camera is being held still. That's why cameras like my Pentax K10D, which have shake-reduction built into the body, advise the photographer to turn shake-reduction OFF when the camera is on a tripod, but leave it on when using a monopod.

 

And try upping the ISO to 1600, and increasing the shutter speed a bit, too, and see if that helps. Don't worry about the noise: A totally blurred photo is pretty close to useless, while a basically sharp photo that's noisy may actually be kind of cool, especially if you convert to black and white.

 

I agree with Evan Goulet (who was writing his response at the same time I was writing my first reply) that this looks like a problem with camera-shake, not focus, because everything is blurry. But you may be able to eliminate focus as a worry by switching to manual focus or at least by turning OFF continuous auto-focus (if you've been using that). You're obviously some distance from the action, so even with a wide aperture you're going to have some decent depth of field. Manually focus on the players while they're in their huddle and then worry about holding the camera still when the ball snaps. This doesn't work if the QB throws a long pass, of course, but try it a bit just for the experience.

Terry, according to the EXIF info on your photo posted, it was actually ISO 400, so switching to ISO 1600 will get you in the 1/1000 range of shutter speed. That, along with the other suggestions here should get you in the ballpark of the good, sharp images you want.

Thank you all!! I am going to the game here as soon as my husband gets home from work. I will try all of your suggestions and report back.

Mike is the team videographer and I am team photographer. We are doing it for four teams this year. It is alot of work, but we love it. Also I will do a show for the kids at banquet time.

We have five kids that are involved in these teams. The girls are cheerleaders.

Here we are. Four by birth and five adopted.

http://www.doll-fan.com/gallery2/d/258627-1/Quinn+new+year.jpg

Terry, I have to disagree with some of the suggestions above. The photo you posted above has both motion and focus blur. While fast shutter speeds are preferable, they're not the biggest issue here.

 

First, at longer focal lengths, you'll always want to use a monopod for support. Someone suggested a tripod. Absolutely never use a tripod when shooting football. It's a safety hazard and most referees won't allow it.

 

Second, shoot at the fastest shutter speed you can combined with the lowest ISO. The minimum shutter speed should be about 1/200. No, that's not optimal, but with good technique, you can definitely make it work.

 

Finally, the third part of the equation is harder to address. Your Rebel XT will produce excellent pictures in most situations, but fast action sports is a stretch. The problem is it probably doesn't have the fastest auto-focus engine in the world. Combine that with limited AF tracking options (I'm assuming here - I'm a Nikon shooter) and you're working at the limits of what that camera can do. Read your manual and/or post a question about your focus tracking settings on the Canon forum. Also be sure to set your camera on continuous (rather than single-servo) auto-focus.

 

Good luck and post more samples.<div></div>

Terry, notice the limited depth of field and the slow shutter speed on the above photo. This was shot at a night gamel, so I had to shoot wide open. You can make a relatively slow shutter speed like this work by panning with the action.

Terry,

 

I wish I had seen this post prior to your game. I have used the exact same body and lens. Here's my recommended settings.

 

Use AI Servo focus mode

Use Aperture Priority mode and set it for 2.8

The camera will take care of the shutter speed for you.

Start with ISO 100 or 200 and bump it up as needed to keep your shutter speed as high as possible. Most likely you will shoot the majority of the game at ISO 1600 but a noisy photo is better than a blurred photo any day.

 

Good luck and let us know how things go.

Terry,

 

Dan make a good suggestion regarding the focus tracking. When shooting football I've found using the center focus point only works best. To set this put your XT in some mode other then the Green automode and then press the right button on the back of the camera just behind the ON/OFF switch. By rotating the front wheel you can change the focus point. Just rotate the wheel until the one in the center is selected and then press the button a 2nd time.

Zach, by focus tracking, I'm not just talking about which focus point to use. I'm talking about the options for how the camera will maintain focus on an object in motion. Again, I'm not familiar with the Rebel and it's options, but being an entry-level DSLR, if you do have tracking options, they're probably limited. Best to check the manual or ask on the Canon forum.<div></div>

Wow! All good info. Now you have me curious if my Canon Rebel XT will even be able to do what I need.

Here are a couple of my best shots from last night.

I used AI Servo and Al Servo, just experimenting and most have 1600 iso.

I got LOTS of grain. Most pictures were out of focus somewhat. boo!!

Terry<div></div>

And another closeup.<div></div>

Maybe I need a better flash? I am using a canon 420EX.

 

Unless a miracle happens, my XT is as far as I can go right now. I know Miracles can happen, but I am trying to do the best possible with this one.

I used a Monopod all night too.

Some of my photo's were fairly sharp, but the majority were mixed or the wrong guy was in focus.

My speed dropped around 100 later in the game with my ap. at 2.8.

My camera seems to be having an issue. Some of the photo's have a "film" on them.

I can get it off in the software, but it is random and does not seem normal, so as soon as the season is over, I am taking it in for a checkup.

Do you think they can speed it up inside????? hehehe

Terry: A "film" on some of the images? Sounds like it might be lens flare, perhaps - can you post an example? And as for the "wrong guy in focus" problem... that's all about technique. But one thing you mention - the use of the strobe - could be part of the problem, here. Your camera and strobe are trying valiantly to light the scene and expose as if the strobe were really going to help... but in a large outdoor space, that's pretty much a lost cause. You're better off NOT using that strobe, and sticking with higher ISOs.

ok, I just called the Cord Camera store. They suggested using manual focus instead of auto.

Because the sky is dark, there is not enough contrast for the focus to work fast enough with.

What do you all think?

I think I need a better flash too.

ok, here is an example. These two photo's were taken one right after the other. The first one has that film look over it and the next is normal looking.

Other photographers on the field are using the flashes so I thought it would help me too. hmmmm<div></div>

Dan: Focus tracking on the XT is called AI Servo focusing. When the shutter is held down half way the camera constantly focuses.

 

Terry:

 

- I wonder if the flash is part of the problem. Doesn't it limit the shutter speed? I shoot without a flash so I'm not sure if it does or not.

 

- Sounds like the guy at Cord Camera store hasn't ever shot a football game at night. I don't know of any sideline photographer that tries to manual focus.

 

- "film" in photo - Were you taking the picture next to someone else that was shooting with a flash?

 

- Tell us about your technique for shooting. Do you try to follow a single player for any given play or are you trying to follow the ball and changing from player to player as the play progresses? If you're changing from player to player you will need to refocus the camera after you move from one player to the next.

Terry, not sure what that "film" is. At first I thought it was flare from field lighting, but with the two shots taken in succession, I'm not so sure.

 

As for the advice your camera store gave you, do not try manual focusing. That will only result in frustration. While your lenses may not be the fastest-focusing available, they're almost always going to do a better job than you can manually.

 

Sounds like you are using a program exposure mode. By fare the best method when shooting fast action is to take a few sample exposures first to determine your exposure and then lock it in using manual. No matter how good your camera is, no auto exposure system will give you consisten results in these conditions. Sometimes you'll have a lot of night sky behind your subject, sometimes a light standard will be in the background - whatever. The only way to ensure that you get consistent exposures is by setting them manually.

 

Also, do not use flash. It's ueseless in most sports situations and it will limit how fast you can shoot while it recycles.<div></div>