phillip_wong Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Hello, I was interested in purchasing an underwater housing for a Nikon D300. Anybody know of some good qualityproducts at a decent price under $2000 hopefully including the ports for my lenses? Thanks, Phillip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hooper1 Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I have done a great deal of underwater photography Phillip, and for a few years I was a commercial diver for Sea Life Park in Hawaii. I have never used an underwater housing , no matter how expensive, that did not leak at some point. I'm only telling you this in case you are not of the opinion that your D300 is expendable. If you only dive occasionally, and are not in the business of selling your underwater images, I suggest buying a less expensive camera to use for diving. If money is no object and the D300 is not your only body, than Sea & Sea makes a pretty good housing. I see they have one for the D300 for little over $3000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaglow Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Robert, as I've been planning to do a dive with my Nikonos IV in a couple of months, may I ask what you recommend for underwater photography? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samoksner Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 As said by Robert, they all leak eventually. The safest thing to do is to check the seals by closing it down and submerging it for a while and inspecting it. The best thing to do is to get a small camera (point and shoot) that has underwater housing available and do that. The whole thing will b e cheaper then to get a $2500 unit for the D300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hooper1 Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 The Nikonos is a great camera Michael. I never owned the IV-A but I did own the Nikonos I through III. Make sure you check, clean, and lubricate (silicone) your serviceable O rings and replace any that look worn or deformed before your trip. Clean the channels the o rings go into as well. Shoot a roll through the camera just to see that everything is functioning . Of course make sure you install a fresh battery and carry a few extras. The 35mm or 80mm lenses are ok performers out of water. What lens or lenses do you have? Remember, you can have your film processed, scanned, and copied to a CD for processing with the digital editing program of your choice. Below about 20 feet depth, your images will become noticeably more and more cyan/monochromatic because the water filters out warm colors of the spectrum. Most reef fish and coral formations are within 33ft anyway. Pelagic fish are the exception. I'm not going to get into underwater strobes because I could write a book on that subject. Without experience using underwater flash you will have a lot of trouble avoiding illumination of particulate matter in the water, unless you are using flash in absolutely clear water like fresh water Tarpon Springs, or Silver Springs Florida. This a big problem when using flash in in any condition other than perfect visibility. Extending your flash head forward out from the camera on an articulated arm to illuminate your subject from the side helps, but is not a complete solution in every circumstance. Forget using flash unless you have some comfort level with it already. Ocean water clarity has been denigrating at an alarming rate here in Hawaii and around the world, just in my lifetime. But I digress. Hope I have contributed something you don't already know, Michael. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hooper1 Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I just thought of something else important, Michael. Buoyancy control. In my early days of diving, we just grabbed a piece of coral and hunkered down against the reef to steady ourselves for a shot. We had no idea we were destroying the reef by doing this at the time. Of course in those days we didn't use Buoyancy Control Devices, ( BCDs), because they weren't invented yet. Later, I learned to control my buoyancy using a BCD enough to steady myself for shooting. Frankly, the technique does not replace grabbing ahold of a coral head, but you are causing no damage to the the reef if you master buoyancy control. Currents and surge complicate matters, you'll have to act according to your conscience in these situations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce_margolis Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Phillip, maybe these people can tell you the kind of housing they use. At least you will know what Nikon recommends....... http://www.nikonschool.com/underwater.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bernie moore Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Phillip, to meet your criteria of good quality and under 2k the answer is Ikelite. BTW I have had 5 UW housings 2 of which were Ikelite and not a one of them has ever leaked. Proper and careful predive maintenance is a must. You will need to buy a housing and at least one port depending on which lens you want to use. The immensity of choices is daunting.I currently dive with a D200. Oh, and you better be ready to fork out about another 1K for at least one UW strobe. Good lighting is even more important down there. Regards, Bernie ps A friend is standing on the same cliff's edge as you:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillip_wong Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Thanks everyone for all the good feedback, I ended up getting the D300. I forgot to mention that I would mainly be shooting surfing and if I do ever want to go into taking photos of widelife I'll consider that later. I'm also going to take pictures from the water to the land, if that makes sense. The hotel I work for would look really cool from the water. There were companies like Dicapac and Aquapac for $119.95 on ebay.... Ewa-Marine UB Underwater Housing from B&H $334.95, Ikelite $1,424.95, and the Aqua Tech D2 Sports Housing $1,649.95. That's what I've found within my price range, not including having to add a port to both the more expensive housings. Water damage to my camera isn't a huge issue, since I bought the no fault warranty. Just as long as my lenses don't get ruined, those aren't under that warranty. What do you think of the cheaper ones? I don't really know what to get, I suppose I got cheaper for right now, and if I want to do deep sea diving I'll buy the more expensive ones? Also for surfing, do I need to get a standard lense or can I just use my 18-55mm lense, I was also thinking about getting a fisheye or another wide angle lense, I'm just not sure what fits in where. Thanks!!!!<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tatiana_something Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 <p>Personally, I use a Nimar housing and it's never failed me. What I mean by that is, it's never flooded or cracked. Although I've dropped the housing quite a few times. I enjoy having a clear housing rather than an aluminum case(it's better don't get me wrong) but I clear because I can see, just in case, if my housing floods. I DO NOT want my baby to get wet. But um, here is a link to a Nikon D300 housing from Nimar<br /><br />http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/801518-REG/Nimar_NID300SN1_Underwater_Housing_f_Nikon_D300.html<br /><br />I've heard good things about ikelite, I'm not trying talk bobo.<br /><br />and here's a picture of Pipin, idk if you know him but he's a pretty awesome diver and uses nimar.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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