Tripod technique for Leica

Conventional tripod technique for a long telephoto/SLR is to rest one

hand/arm on the top of the lens directly over the ball head, put the

eyebrow to the eye-cup, grip the body with the other hand and gently

press the release. All of this is intended to minimize the mirror

slap, and is recommended over a lock-down, hands-off, fire with a

cable release technique.

 

This may be a dumb question, but what is the recommended technique

for a RF?

i have read on the forum that one of the reasons for the tripod bushing to be at the far right of the baseplate is that it is located above the shutter release, such that, for occasional tripod use w/o a cable, firing the shutter w/the finger will not induce much torque (and movement) to the camera.

 

leitz probably could've put the socket in the center by adding small extended reinforcement on the baseplate.

of course i meant "below" the shutter release. doh!

>>one of the reasons for the tripod bushing to be at the far right of the baseplate is that it is located above the shutter release<<

 

Change "reasons" to "rationalizations" and I'll agree. Having the body and lens cantilevered off the offset tripod bush is, if anything, detrimental to vibration reduction--not to mention the stress on the baseplate--and that in turn precludes resting the left hand anywhere on the body or lens lest you apply even more leverage.

 

IMO the best way to shoot the M on a tripod is with some attachment that provides a centered tripod bush. With the smaller/lighter lenses it doesn't make that much difference, but with a 75/1.4, 90/2 or 135/2.8 the centered bush is a very, very good idea.

<A HREF="http://www.clearsightusa.com/leiplatecs.html">Centered tripod bush</A>

David: Where does this conventional wisdom regarding tripod

technique for telephoto/slr come from. I would think that putting

your hand over the telephoto and placing your eye over teh

eye-cup and pressing the release would add some degree of

vibration. I think that a heavy tripod/ball with miror lock-up and a

cable release would eliminate any potential human vibrations.

Am I wrong and if so, why ? Cheers ! Albert

Lutz- Could the Leica Grip-M be redesigned with a similar quick release dovetail at the bottom? I have wondered why they did not design it that way. I suppose a Leica M base plate with built in quick release is not feasible.

Both Kirk and RRS sell a little square qr plate that works with the Leica M grip. I also use, on occasion, one of the Gitzo offset ball heads that balances nicely with the M Leicas. g

Albert,

 

Here are two links that discuss this technique. Yes it is controversial, your mileage may vary.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000gar

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000w3Z

 

and a related link:

 

http://www.photo.net/nature/mlu

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<img border=2 src="http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/misc/PhotoGear/StanzWay-500.jpg">

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<p>Need I say more? (lol)</p>

Continuing with Steve's train of thought: I put my thumb under the ball head mounting plate, near the tripod screw, and my index finger on the shutter release, and squeeze, just as I would without the tripod. I think the M tripod socket location is helpful in squeezing off shots in the 1/4 or 1/8 second range.

 

Bob Fleischman

I don't know Ralph. Looks kind of precarious to me. I think it

needs some more shot bags...

Where is the mirror lock up switch on the leica m cameras? You

would think a $200+ camera would have mirror lock up.

<P>Putting your hand atop a tripod mounted long telephoto is

not one of the moew adviseable things to do for steadying the

camera. Putting a deadweight like a small beanbag or sand bad

is however an OK but awkward idea, just make sure that your

tripod & head are designed to handle the additional

weight.<P>Where you should put your left hand is under the front

of the lens barrel , and you should gently cradle the lens instead

of rigidly grasping it, same thing with your right hand on the

camera body. Cradling dampens vibration, a tight grasp means

your muscles are flexed and you are transmitting vibration. If the

lens is long enough you should also have some sort of support

underthe camera body. I use, when pratical, a Bogen/Manfrotto

Magic Arm. one end is attached to the tripod with a

Bogen/Manfrotto Super Clamp or MSE Mafer Clamp and the

other connects to the camera with the camera body attachment

plate that comes with the Magic Arm.

Frank here's a quick release plate for a Leica M.

 

http://www.quickreleaseplate.com/

My technique is to leave the tripod at home !- what's the point of a small compact mobile body and lens if you stick it on a tripod. Like fitting a towbar and hitching a trailer home to a 911!

Frank, how about a swing out (think Swiss Army knife...;o) accessory bottom plate, with centered tripod bush and Arca dovetail which doubles as a flash bracket...? Any further suggestions? If it's going to see the light of day it's gonna be the SWING.

Ellis: Maybe you were just kidding, but I will bite. The RF don't

have any mirrors to lock up ! David: Thanks for the insight but I

still think that this is counterintutite as you are bracing the

camera with a hand that does shake, you are firing off the shutter

by applying a force that then ellicits an appropriate counterforce,

and most distressingly, by not locking the mirror, you allow this

to move and vibrate...no matter how well Leica says it is

dampened down. This produces yet a third force and

counterforce problem. I still feel that a heavy tripod or a lighter

one ladden down with a camera bag accomompanied by a

miiror lock-up, fast exposure speed and a cable release is the

most optimal. One caveat: the tripod ball, usually the chink in

everone's armour, has to be sturdy enough to handle the

camera.

Dr. Knapp,

Uh, yes I was joking in a deadpan manner.

I use the Leica Platform, a base made by Jones Photo Equip. [no relation] which has a centering tripod hold. Cheap. Well made.

I just wanted to make a quick comment concerning the tripod technique mentioned concerning and SLR and long telephoto lenses. Go to www.naturephotographers.net and do a search. The method described by David is favored by many, many of the wildlife/bird photographers who post on this site. Some of them get outstanding results with 600mm lenses and extenders.

For the life of me I can't figure out why so many Leica owners feel reluctant to put RVP in their camera, put it on a tripod, and take advantage of the 'outstanding' Leica glass to take landscape and nature images. Are they afraid some N80 or Rebel owner will think they are using a point-and-shoot?

 

What is the sense of having high quality optics if you turn your back on technique that will allow you to fully exploit them?

 

I don't get it.

 

David

Ellis: Please call me Albert !! Dr. Knapp is way too formal.

Needless to say , this goes for everyone please ! (:>)))