Torn Edged Paper for Prints

<p>I have seen a number of photographs lately where the paper with the print on it has its edges lightly torn -- nothing too drastic, but enough to give it (what I think) is a nice look. The image is sometimes mounted to another paper--maybe <em>slightly</em> elevated for some separation and to create a light shadow--and then matted and framed behind glass.</p>

<p>It seems to me that the 'tearing' of the paper happens after it has been printed to make certain it feeds properly through the printer; but I didn't know if 'pre-torn' paper was available that would go through.</p>

<p>I found this product while looking around for some ideas-- <a href="http://dualedgeripper.com/">The Dual Edge Ripper</a> -- which I suppose looks okay enough, but didn't know what limitations it would have: maximum thickness of paper? Ease of tearing paper too much?</p>

<p>Is there anything others here may use for that look? A particular paper that suits this application better than others? Does anybody here print on non-photographic papers (e.g., watercolor paper) with any success?</p>

<p>Thanks--David</p>

<blockquote>

<p>It seems to me that the 'tearing' of the paper happens after it has been printed to make certain it feeds properly through the printer; but I didn't know if 'pre-torn' paper was available that would go through.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I know that photographer Art Wolfe does this on some of his prints (I have one) and saw a demo of it done when teaching a workshop for him. Yes it is done after the print is made. I didn’t see any specialized equipment but his framer did it with a straight edge and I suspect a lot of practice. I’d suspect any paper thick enough to go through an inkjet (what he used) can work. <br>

<img src="http://www.digitaldog.net/files/Art%20Wolfe%20Class_March%2015,%202008_0051.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I've used a deckle ruler, which is similar to the Dual Edge Ripper but so much cheaper that one has to wonder, for doing this to prints. It works well with "fine art" (i.e., watercolor-style) papers in my experience.</p>

<p>If you'd rather not tear the paper, <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/products/hahnemuhle-photo-rag-deckle-edge-inkjet-paper/">Hahnemühle makes a deckle edged inkjet photo rag paper</a>.</p>

 

<p>All of the non-photographic works on paper that I've seen displayed as you've described were on true deckled edge paper, not torn. A deckle in handmade paper isn't from tearing - it's a result of the paper making process. The deckle edge may superficially resembled the feathered edges from cutting or tearing, but it's not quite the same thing.</p>

<p>The display method you described has been a fairly popular way to display paintings on deckle edged paper - watercolors, acrylics and oils - and collages on deckle edged paper, which in turn is floated atop another, larger deckle edged sheet, which is framed and usually glazed.</p>

<p>It can be a good look for photographs on heavy enough paper. Current museum conservation mounting practice prefers detachable mounting - linen or paper tape and water based paste - which often results in prints with visible waves and buckling. Some prints use a window overmat, cut smaller than the print dimensions, to help compress and flatten the print somewhat. But some conservators prefer the over mat doesn't touch the print at all. So far I haven't seen anyone mounting a photographic print on fiber silver gelatin, other light sensitive media, or cotton rag inkjet, with the float method sans window over mat, but it could be an interesting if unconventional look. It would effectively make the natural waves and buckles part of the display, rather than trying to hide it as an imperfection.<br>

<br>

Incidentally I've tried torn edge b&w silver gelatin paper for an old photo look. When done prior to exposure and processing the effect is interesting but odd and unpredictable. The torn edge opens the paper to chemical infiltration and staining. The long term effect is unpredictable because fixer may infiltrate and not be thoroughly washed out, so years later it may cause it to deteriorate. But I've mostly experimented with expired paper, which is already foggy, and homebrewed developers including lye for these effects, so I'm not concerned about consistency or archival properties.</p>

<p>There are deckle-edged scissors that can be purchased at craft stores - probably not a good solution for a large quantity but would work for the occasional print.</p>