Topcon Super RE - Light Meter Help

Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by stevenenglund, Dec 5, 2017.

  1. Thanks for the suggestion. I might do this if the meter gets fixed. By the way, any suggestions how to proceed on that matter?
     
  2. ^ Sorry I don't but I will say the chain managed meter function in your Topcon reminds me of the Zeiss Contarex system. They used cables and yes, even tough the meters were shot, just moving the shutter speed dial caused the meter to move - giving the erroneous indication the meter had life left in it. Wish I could help but I have no experience with your camera.
     
  3. Nice, I've never seen a real Contarex. I know they were known as mechanic marvels, but a nightmare to repair.
     
  4. I've finally figured out how to adjust the light meter (in a very croase way). The light meter itself is rotated by a pulley chain gear which is rotated by the chain link subsystem. So you have to adjust the "gearing meshing" - rotate the meter a bit without rotating the gear.

    Description in the service manual is a bit vague (section Exposure Meter Adjustments 2a and Fig. 3), so I made a schematic picture for anybody interested: [​IMG]

    A first roll of film has been shot today using this particular Super D body. I'm eager to see whether the repair was successful.
     
  5. You are correct, if the light meter works, it works without a lens attached. Make DARN sure the on -off switch is ON! if it still doesnt work removed the base3plate (easy) and remove the battery compartment, check the wiring under that (50%) certain the problem is there. The D'Arsonval meter on that RE Super is built like a tank, not likely the its bad. Dont forget the ASA wheel on the speed dial. Theres a carbon resistor pad under there and thats where I would go next for possible dirt, corosin, etc. Clen there, Regards, Don
     
  6. Yesterday I tried to take apart my Topcon yet again. I almost got to where you have yours in the image. However, there was a small plate above the gear, and it had a wire intricately threaded through it. Didn't seem easy to remove so I didn't mess with it.

    I can confirm that my light meter works and reacts to a flash light through the lens, but the meter is not sensitive enough to react during normal light changes, such as pointing towards a window and then pointing towards a dark shadow. I'm thinking that it will work correctly if I can adjust the gear you mentioned.

    How did your first roll ever turn out?
     
  7. Don @ Eastwestphoto here-------------------------- A balanced bridge circuit works by equal current flow in the legs of the bridge, with a galvanometer from one side of the bridge to the other. At balance the galvanometer will null at Zero. Thus, The Topcon RE meter will be dead center. One response I read was correct, the Topcon RE Super circuit can accept from 1.6v~1.2v range in batteries. The meter will then be dead center in the two points viewed in the eyelevel prism. so here's the PROBLEM. Battery corrosion puts a resistance in the circuit. IF the battery compartment is clean, no bluish tint, its UNDER the battery compartment the fault. Remove base plate. Be careful of the on - off switch. I use two tiny brads with fine point held by a plier, screw counter clock-wise (easy). take the other screws off, but arrange in order as they are NOT the same length! Take the tripod one of also above the base-plate. set aside. Remove the 3 screws holding the battery compartment. Lift is out from under the back door release lever. Flip over, is it greenish? TROUBLE ahead. The back compartment needs to be very clean, and the center contact if greenish will be a resistance and needs to be re-soldered. Make sure the wire is not corroded. I use solder paste (SMD) and soldering iron, low wattage.. The on off switch is contact driven so make sure they are clean, congrats thats phase 1. Use a DVOM to test for Continuity or voltage around 1.35v, PASS ?, Put the assembly back together and TEST your meter. Works Great, FAILS, Phase 2
    Phase 2= DANGER= ASA speed dial is a mechanical gearing , a chain and gears, dont mess with this as you need special tool to hold the spring tension of the chain. Left side top, view, remove rewind two screws in its cover below the rewind knob, Philips screw in back of cover, X-synch screw is a spanner type use those tiny brads again, and pry gently up till its free. From TOP left side is the meter, remember its a Galvanometer and can be tested by a diode test mode of your DVOM meter. Since its 0.7v output it will move the meter movement and you will see it and heard it. If the spring is broken, your dead! Then canalization required from another broken camera. Rutt Roe, Don
     
  8. The skipping gear teeth on the meter is the coarse adjust. The fine adjust is that one of the bearings for those pullies on the far right of the picture is eccentric. Loosen set-screw on side, turn bearing in via slot.
    A nasty to repair failure mode of the Super D meter circuit is for one of the wires connecting to the meter cell in the mirror breaking from metal fatigue.
    The full service manual is online.
     

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