Taking photos in a tropical butterfly house

<p>Wondering what (if any) precautions to take when bringing my camera into a tropical butterfly house (very warm and humid) - bearing in mind that this is in Northern Ireland where outside temperatures are likely to be 15-20 degrees C lower and humidity much lower.</p>

<p>I'm worried about steaming up inside camera and lenses.</p>

<p>Anyone have any tips ?</p>

<p>Many thanks,<br>

Martin</p>

<p>The problem with condensation would occur, if at all, in the first few minutes after you bring the cooler camera and lens(es) into the warmer air of the greenhouse.</p>

<p>If you put your vulnerable items into gallon-size, ziplock plastic bags and seal them before entering, you can then let the gear warm up to the greenhouse air temperature before taking them out. This should pretty much eliminate the problem.</p>

<p>If the air inside the greenhouse is <em>very</em> moist, it would be a good idea (later, after you return home) to put your lenses into a sealed container with several dessicant packs, and leave them that way for a while...just as a precaution. (Every time a lens tube is extended in the act of focusing, it creates an internal vacuum and draws in surrounding air--and any moisture it contains.)</p>

<p>Thanks Ernest - I was planning on using my 300mm AF-S (no zooming) on my D90 but I guess you are right about focusing also drawing air in.</p>

<p>Hadn't thought about the after-care once home again - thanks a lot for that tip.</p>

<p>Martin</p>

<p>Mart, I've encountered this very problem several times here in Texas... or, at least, variations of the problem. I've photographed butterfly exhibits and other shows in the local botanic garden conservatory in winter or early spring; and a nearby nature preserve on a very humid wetland in summer. And shooting various projects in hours of heavy fog/misting rain at various times of year.</p>

<p>At the botanic garden conservatory, the challenge was moving from a chilly, relatively dry outdoor environment to a very warm and humid indoor environment. At the nature preserve I encountered an opposite problem: moving from the air conditioned visitors center to the very hot, humid outdoor environment.</p>

<p>In both cases, simply waiting 10-15 minutes for the camera equipment to acclimate was enough to solve the problems. But, being impatient, I wanted to begin taking photos immediately. The trick is to be prepared to wipe the fogged optics quickly, often and safely to avoid scratches. Bring plenty of lens cleaning tissues and keep 'em handy. If those sheets of paper lens tissues seems too fiddly, try a microfiber cloth - but be sure to keep it clean. Microfiber cloths can pick up grit from a pocket, and oil and salty sweat from handling. They do need to be cleaned periodically between photo sessions.</p>

<p>Also, use a protective filter over the lens, at least while waiting for the camera and lens to acclimate. You may need to wipe fog from the lens or filter and eyepiece every few seconds. It's easier to replace a scuffed filter than front element of a lens. And if you're allergic to the notion of a protective filter you can always remove it after the equipment acclimates.</p>

<p>If the fogging occurs inside the lens on the inner optics, there's no choice but to wait. So far this hasn't happened to me in any sudden shift between environments, including shooting for hours in heavy fog/misting rain. So far the fogging has been confined to the outermost optical elements.</p>

<p>BTW, your 300mm AF-S Nikkor may be too long with the D90 for photographing butterflies in a conservatory. The last time I did this I took a 70-210mm zoom and 100mm macro lens for the SLR, and a P&S digicam with a 35-105mm (equivalent) zoom with macro focusing capability. I ended up keeping the 70-210mm zoom in the bag most of the time and mainly used the 100mm macro on the SLR and the P&S with the macro setting. The butterflies were remarkably "tame" and it was very easy to approach closely enough to photograph them with shorter focal lengths. Very different experience from photographing flutterbys in the wild, where a longer lens is often necessary.</p>

<p>Thanks a lot Lex - so much information in there.</p>

<p>Hadn't really thought about the 300 being too long - and I guess swapping lenses in the environment is about a big a no-no as you get in photography (possibly second only to doign it in a dust storm). I have the Nikkor 105 f2.8 Micro - which will also be faster - so sounds like that may be a better choice.</p>

<p>How about flash ? is that really required aswell ? I've never shot in these sorts of environments. This being Northern Ireland - brightness outside cannot be guaranteed and the greenhouse (which I think is opaque) will reduce the light somewhat.</p>

<p>I have an SB-600 - with a lead to get it off camera.</p>

<p>Many thanks for the advice.</p>

<p>Martin</p>

<p>Martin,</p>

<p>You're OK if the camera is as warm as, or preferably warmer than, the warm and humid environment. Here's what I'd do: As you leave your house with a warm camera, bag it in the cold air. The cold air will have less total moisture content in it and will reach a very low relative humidity when re-heated. Then put your bagged camera inside your car under the heating vent. Get it nice and toasty on your drive to the butterfly house. Keep the bagged camera under your jacket as you walk from your car to the butterfly house. It should remain nice and toasty and should be warmer than the air inside. Once inside, pull out your toasty camera, and you'll be fine to shoot.</p>

<p>When you leave the butterfly house, walk into the outside air without your camera bagged. Nothing will condense on it. Let the cold, dry air enter the camera. Then bag it, and keep it bagged until it equalizes with the temperature in your home. Then it's safe to remove.</p>

<p>Another tip: If your camera isn't going to be warmer than the humid surrounds, beware of moist air flowing through your cooler camera. That will happen if you zoom or focus a lens with telescoping barrels. To circumvent this problem, use an internally focusing and zooming lens, which will not draw air through the camera body when operated.</p>

<p>Sarah and Martin, it may be worth pointing out that if you do place your camera and lenses directly under a heating vent to get them nice and toasty, you should be very careful to ensure they do NOT get "hot".</p>

<p>If a lens becomes hot (whether from placement close to a heater, or from being left in a locked car in the sunshine in the summer) the consequences can be bad, and very expensive. The thick-by-design lubricants on the internal mechanical parts of the lens can "melt", and in that thinner, fluid state, can migrate to other parts of the lens--especially to the diaphragm leaves, which forever afterward may be prone to sticking or slow operation. And the only cure for oil on the diaphragm leaves is a complete lens-disassembly and cleaning.</p>

<p>With that one caveat, Sarah's recommended approach is excellent.</p>

<p>Many thanks again.</p>

<p>I was far too impatient - turns out that the butterfly house won't be open for another month. I'll post shots once I finally get in there.</p>

<p>Martin</p>