Strobe lighting problem

<p>I'm getting frustrated with the way my photos are turning out. They look fine on the LCD screen but when I upload them to the computer I can see things that are not noticeable in the camera.<br>

I'm using Smith Victor Strobes. Sometimes the two background lights fire and sometimes they don't. I'm not sure why this is happening. The two strobes in the front usually fire. I'm using the main light with a sync cord and the rest are slaves. The ones in the front are 200 watts and the ones on the background are 110 watts.<br>

I'm having problems lighting the background paper as well. When I'm doing a headshot or from the waist up the background looks fine. When doing a full body shot it's apparant the the background is not lit evenly. There are lighter areas on each side where the strobes are aimed at the background paper. I want to know how to evenly light the background paper. I'm working in a limited area.<br>

The studio is about 20 x 26. The walls are white. The ceiling is 16' tall.<br>

I usually have the subject sit or stand about 4 feet from the background. If any further forward I wouldn't be able to get a full body shot due to space limitations. I'm using a 17-50mm lens.<br>

I have a Sekonic L-358 light meter that I use. What am I doing wrong?<br>

I can't afford better lights right now and need to make the ones I have work. I need to use the solid color background paper for the type of photos that I'm shooting.<br>

Thanks!</p>

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<p>I believe Smith Victor only makes Fluorescent and Incandescent lights, and does not make "strobes"?<br>

Perhaps that confused people and you got no advice yet.<br>

You seem to have 2 x 200 Watts bulbs, and one 100 Watts, total of 500 watts of continuos lighting ?<br>

With static continuous lighting you should be able to asess even lighting. You may need to add more bulbs..inexpensively.<br>

Since you say you cannot afford... try to move lights closer to subject, perhaps use manual exposue since you use light meter, and make the lights beam wider, if possible.</p>

<p>Use a large TV or monitor to see pictures in larger size, best to use computer screen in tethered setup or large HDMI TV if your camera has that..</p>

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<p>@Frank: SV makes strobes, check their web site.<br>

@OP:<br>

Move your b/g lights farther from the b/g and turn up the intensity.<br>

Work with the b/g lights first. Turn off the f/g lights and move the b/g lights so they are aimed each ~1/3 in toward the center of the b/g. When you have the b/g lit evenly, get a stand in and work to light the f/g, one light at a time.<br>

Don't just throw a bunch of lights at a subject and try to sort it out. Work methodically, one light at a time, making test exposures at each step. Don't move to the next light until you are satisifed with the position and intensity of the one you're working with.<br>

Sometimes you just don't have enough lights or space to do full length portraits. If that's the case, don't offer them as part of your service.<br>

<Chas><br /></p>

<p>Yes they are real strobes. They are not "hot lights". I have four lights (two are 200 watts, the other two are 110 watts). I do use manual exposure with my light meter.<br>

I will try moving the b/g lights farther from the background, great advice!<br>

I do meter the lights individually and meter them separately.<br>

Thanks for all the advice!</p>

<p>I moved the two strobes with soft box strips back about four or five feet from the background paper on each side. I aimed them at the center. This worked beautifully!</p>