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Some Shots with a Super Baldax


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<p>I bought it from an ad in the local newspaper. It's similar to the other Baldax I've got but this one has a Schneider Radionar f2.9 lens and coupled rangefinder. The rangefinder was way off vertically, and the viewfinder was cloudy. It's not difficult to remove the top, and clean the various viewfinder elements (but don't touch the beamsplitter) and I also managed to adjust the vertical alignment. You can do the horizontal adjustment from outside.</p><div>00W3Hg-230937584.jpg.72f777d6208fdbb2097246d2d6a9b0fb.jpg</div>
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<p>The large knob is for focussing, you have to set it to infinity to close the camera. It has the same winding mechanism as the Baldax, where you have to ratchet backwards and forwards, and it is just as awkward to wind the film - this time the frames overlapped slightly. Next time I use it I will use the red window.</p><div>00W3Ht-230937784.jpg.ff73c34f1de47ce32974a93f9826fec5.jpg</div>
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<p>That looks a nice one, John. I like the ice-cream van pic. We no longer have these around here, so it might make the short trip from here down the A6 worthwhile on a summer's day . . . </p>

<p>I have a couple of Super Baldaxes with the tiplets (Rodenstock and Schneider) and one with a f2.8 Ennit, plus several 'Plain Jane' versions. (My first Balda was bought secondhand in 1968 - for a <em>lot </em> of money). The Supers handle pretty nicely, but I agree about the ratchet wind - it may be a little quicker but it isn't usually accurate. The triplet lenses (Radionar and Trinar) are fairly good when stopped down (as I am sure you know) and fortunately hoods and filters are still easy to find: I notice some tendency to flare in tricky conditions (not surprising) and so I invariably use a hood. I also have a Super with a f3.5 Baldinar too, but have low expectations about its quality ,so I haven't ever put a film through it.</p>

<p>One thing to watch is that stiff focussing machanisms can start to loosen the lens/shutter block so that it rotates. It's easy to fix, but has occurred on all of of my Super Baldas at some time. Upon re-tightening a slightly incorrect 'angle' of the lens/shutter block can lead to issues with shutter lag or possibly premature release which may <em>wrongly suggest</em> a linkage problem under the top-plate. Good luck . . AC in NG.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Magnificent camera, John, and the Radionar lens seems to be wonderfully sharp. While the pics have medium-format quality, they seem to have an immediacy and perspective more typical of 35mm. Very nice work; the ice cream van and Ayleston Road are particularly effective. Thanks for the post.</p>
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<p>Alan, interesting comments. I'll buy you an okie when I see you...<br>

I'll keep my eye open for the problem you mention, however the focussing on mine seems reasonably free - touch wood.<br>

Rick "<em>the Radionar lens seems to be wonderfully sharp</em>" - yes but ithe images have had to undergo my scanning technique, and reduction to 700 pixels for PN. I do normally apply a light unsharp mask after resizing. Thanks for the comments, much appreciated.</p>

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<p>Elegant camera and sharp crisp pictures; Schneider seems to be in business, still, making lenses for Kodak and Samsung digicams. Wonder if some of those Dresden companies have amalgamated with Schneider. I heard that Pentacon was, at least, for awhile producing the B-series of Prakticas and the P&S zooms. Thanks for the post, sp</p>
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