Shooting Ice Hockey Help

<p>Hi All,<br>

I,m shooting with the canon 50d body and the 70-200mm f2.8II apo ex dg macro sigma lens. I'm very new at this and wanted to know what setting would be the best for hockey shots. Do i just use the auto setting or should i use the sports setting or some other that i don't know? Can i set the camera to remember the settings? Any and all advise would be great for this newbeeee. Thanks</p>

<p>-double post-</p>

<p>When i've shot hockey, i shoot an f/2.8 with a shutter speed of 1/1250, ISO 1600. You want a faster shutter speed because the light reflecting off the ice makes the camera think it's brighter then it is. If you want less noise, you can drop the shutter speed, but I usually shoot with this. <br>

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/unlisted_pics/_MG_2014adj.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="533" /><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/unlisted_pics/_MG_2062.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="533" /></p>

<p>Ray -</p>

<p>Assuming you're talking about kids hockey...Check out the sports forum for a lot of hockey tips.</p>

<p>Set the ISO to 1600 or higher...Noise Ninja is your friend!</p>

<p>Set shutter speed to 1/250 or 1/320.</p>

<p>With that lens - you could shoot from the stands (above the glass) or through the glass (rink level) or best - from the penalty boxes. Check with the arena / coaches before that one though. They probably don't allow parents down there and may have insurance or other concerns.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

<p>I shoot with a D300. I generally set to shutter priority and set the speed fast enough to freeze the action, around 400 with my 80-200 f2.8. I set ISO to auto, with a max of 3200. I've had pretty good results with auto white balance. I shoot raw and only sometimes need to tweek the WB afterward.<br>

The lighting in local hockey arenas is generally pretty miserable. At its worst, I'll use a 50 f1.8, which works pretty well from behind the goal or in the corners. Try a really wide angle lense for close up shots by the boards.</p>

<p>Don't forget to add some "+" compensation or use manual metering. Ice sheet will fool the camera's metering. </p>

<p>Ray - I shoot with a Nikon 70-200 2.8, mounted on a D300. I'm not familiar with the Canon, but , yes - my understanding is you can save your settings to your camera. I shot an entire game at 1/500 sec. @ f2.8, Shutter priority, auto ISO. I positioned myself at ice level, right on the goal line, and pre-focused on the goaltender. Here's a tip I picked up from some sport shooters here at PN - shoot with both eyes open. It'll take some practice, but once you get the concept, you should see immediate results. I'll post some shots if I can figure out how to insert them into this thread.</p>

<p>Thanks for all of your advise and i'll be sure to use and practice them also. Perhaps one day i'll post some of my shots for some positives and more advise for better shots.</p>

<p>Here I have "added" typically + 2/3 stop to + 1/2 stop extra exposure; I have used this a first guess for many decades for hockey shots when using a meter. With this shot with a Rolleiflex E2 and asa 1250 Royal-X; its still abit underexposed ; shot in 30 years ago<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/hockey/tripods-452.jpg?t=1229922698" alt="" /></p>

<p>Here one has a 1/250 second between F4 and F2.8; the real asa was 1250; one "tried" to push it to 3200 with ehtol blue; but one still has little detail in the dark outfit The focus really is on this chap with the raiders jersey; hockey and manual focus can have errors.<br>

<img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/hockey/tripods-453.jpg?t=1229922894" alt="" /></p>

<p>An ancient trick to to pan with the action; one can use a slower shutter speed; here is an old shot of Sullivan of Pensacola at F2.5 with a 10.5cm Nikkor at an iso of 1600 with a RD-1/s body.; dialing in a 2/3 rd stop extra exposure. Since meter is seeing alot of white; adding extra exposure helps with the shadows and dark uniforms.<br>

The camera is panned with the player; thus the dasher boards have some motion blur; plus the puck too. This lens is about 50 years old and its wide open.<br /> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/105mm%20F25%20Nikkor/_EPS4278PENSACOLA28SULLIVANsmall105.jpg?t=1229923440" alt="" /> <br /> <br /> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/105mm%20F25%20Nikkor/_EPS4278PENSACOLA28SULLIVANmediu-1.jpg?t=1229923648" alt="" /> <br /> <br /> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/105mm%20F25%20Nikkor/_EPS4278PENSACOLA28SULLIVANlarge.jpg?t=1229923671<BR" alt="" /></p>

<p>In the above shot the exposure is on auto. Its dialled in with a +2/3 rds extra exposure. The diaphrame is manually set; the shutter thus has varies in speed from shot to shot.</p>

<p>Here is a shot of SZWEZ going into the sin bin; to feel shame; later to be set free. As an extreme example maybe to fire off other neurons; this is with an old Audiovox 1/4 VGA cellphone from about 2004; with about a 1.5 mm lens; a 1/29 second exposure. <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/hockey/tripods-547.jpg?t=1229924275" alt="" /></p>