Setup for an Event Project

<p>Hi to All,<br>

<br />I'm shooting an event this weekend and need help if the following setup would be ok or at least i'll get a satisfactory results.<br>

I'm on a budget and just helping out with the blog of my GFs brother.<br>

Event details: (Sort of Comicon)<br>

- A lot of booths and people<br>

- Some stages and different halls<br>

Gear<br>

Pentax K-50, SMC Pentax F-Zoom 35-70 mm; SMC Pentax FA-Zoom 24-70 F4 and Pentax FA-Zoom 70-200 F4-5.6<br>

Flash would be AF-201FG</p>

<p>Thank you all in advance for you guidance and comments.<br>

<br />Regards,<br>

<br />Kenneth</p>

<p>What time of day is this going to be? If it's daytime you should be ok but if it's night you might want a faster lens. <br>

Depending on the shots you are after you may want something wider too. At 24mm you may not be able to get big audience shots unless you shoot a panorama (which may be a viable solution to keep in mind).<br>

I'd take only the AF gear for efficiency. <br>

I'd put some kind of modifier on the flash to soften it a bit and/or bounce when you can. <br>

Bring an extra battery or two. </p>

<p>I don't think Pentax ever made a FA24-70/4. Is it actually FA28-70/4, FA24-90/3.5-4, or F24-50/4?</p>

<p>Anyway, gear is fine. As Matt mentioned, you don't really have any wide-angle lens so that may be a little limiting. I suggest practicing a bunch with the flash if you're not comfortable with it.</p>

<p>As Matt mentioned, bouncing the flash is good if it works in that venue (bounce-friendly walls or ceilings).</p>

<p>When I use P-TTL flash even though it's somewhat counter-intuitive, I like to have the camera in manual mode and let the flash's automatic exposure do its thing...<br>

<br />This depends on the level of ambient light but something like manual mode ISO 800, shutter 1/60, aperture F8. </p>

<ul>

<li>The flash should freeze motion for the subject & camera shake so a modest shutter speed like that can work.</li>

<li>F8 helps cover focusing errors</li>

<li>Your K-50 is pretty capable with high-ISO so I wouldn't be afraid to increase that beyond 800.</li>

<li>flash output will automatically increase/decrease to illuminate the subject. </li>

<li>You can adjust the exposure using flash exposure compensation. </li>

<li>near stuff will be illuminated by the flash, but background by ambient light. Make background lighter by any of raising ISO, lengthen shutter time, opening aperture (or vice-versa if background is overexposed).</li>

</ul>

<p>Balancing the ambient light with the flash light will make the pictures look more natural (less flashy), plus the flash won't have to work so hard so will recycle faster. </p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

<p>Thank you for the responses Matt and Andrew. I'll keep all your suggestions in mind. Still trying to get a second hand wider lens hopefully a Tamron 18-200 or Pentax 18-135 or 16-45 F4 lens. But if budget does not approve then my feet will do the adjusting to get wider a shot of the subject if i need to.<br>

Thanks again for the help and tips.<br>

P.S.<br>

@Andrew. yes your are right its 28-70 F4AL.<br>

@Matt, I'll be shooting indoors with lots of fluorescent lightning, spot lights some dark areas and mixed lighting.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>"I'm on a budget and just helping out with the blog of my GFs brother."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Is your GFs brother (Grand Father or God Father) the customer?</p>

<p>What does your customer want?</p>

<p>I'm guessing GF = girlfriend.<br>

With fluorescent light, I'd suggest shooting raw and AWB (or flash WB) so you can fix any WB issues later. </p>