boris_krivoruk3 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 <p>When I save RAW images in DPP as 16bit TIFFs they look different from RAW. Brightness, contrast are not the same. Also, if I print RAW image, it also looks like TIFF, not like RAW. I have to spend some time after saving to make images looking like RAW. I have latest version of DPP. Does anyone know the cure? </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PuppyDigs Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 <p>Prints will never perfectly match a monitor viewing, especially brightness and contrast (you can get color closer). After all, the print depends on reflected light and appearance is subject to the brightness of the light source, e.g., your print will look brighter under a brighter light. On the other hand, you monitor shines light through the image, like a chrome on a light table, and always looks more brilliant and "glowing" than a print.</p> <p>Calibrate the monitor as accurate as possible, get used to the appearance on the monitor and how the brightness translates to paper. For these reasons I post process my prints slightly lighter and more contrasty than images for web galleries.</p> Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see. - Robert Hunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mendel_leisk Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 <p>Maybe this will answer your question: no one know what RAW looks like. RAW files are not viewable.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_h.2 Posted May 11, 2010 Share Posted May 11, 2010 <p>If u use dpp to save tiffs they never look the same unless you use photoshop and have the 3 colors processed by photoshop, so what your raw came out as will get processed as a pro printing place would do, the tiffs are always so much bigger than just jpeg, they are nice for doing tricks with the picture but it sure works the pc hard and i use a 4 core board.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tudor_apmadoc Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 <p>If you want to get closer - you'll have to do an entire calibration process from monitor and printer. When I was buying a 24" printer - the key decision for me to buy the HP Z3200ps was the fact that the printer had a built in calibration capability along with a device to calibrate your monitor?</p> <p>When you save your .tiff files - what color space are you using? If you are using the default sRGB, stop that, you need to use the Adobe RGB - it has a much wider colorspace. Make sure you buy a monitor that can do at least 95% of the Adobe RGB color space.</p> <p>When I first calibrated my monitor, I quickly learned that I had been turning up the brightness far too high, so, I would edit my prints, then send them to the printer and they would look dark. The calibration fixed that brightness issues with my prints.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tudor_apmadoc Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 <p>Forgot to mention - I've been using DXO to process my raw files to .tiffs and have been VERY pleased with that program</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjc photographic images Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 <p>A monitor calibrator is definately the way to go. I used to get the same image and load it into DPP, Photoshop and Lightroom and switch between the three and I couldn't believe how different they were (all in RGB, allthough Pro Photo RGB has thrown a spanner in the works)<br> After callibrating my monitor there is still a slight differefnce but nothing that worries me. Next job is to get the prints looking like on the monitor, I have lightroom down to a fine art but DPP and CS3 are still a worry and come out way too dark with a sick looking colour cast. Then again with the price of ink at the momment I haven't used my printers for over a year.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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