Problem with My New Bessa-R

<p>I got my new 75mm Voightlander today and went out for a test drive. I suddenly noticed my RF patch doesn't line up when the lens is on infinity. It's off by quite a bit. I really hadn't notice this on the 28mm lens I had used the first time out with this new camera, but it is the same on both. How serious is this? Can I adjust it myself? Anyone have expertise at this? The camera was boxed "as new" - although purchased at an auction site.</p>

<p>How fast is the 75mm Voightlander? I would not use a long and ultra fast lens on the short RF based like the original Bessa R. I definitely would not use the 75mm summilux or 'cron 90mm on the R. </p>

<p>It's the 75mm f/2.5 Color Heliar. Several people recommended this as the longest viable lens for the Bessa R. (BTW, this patch problem is with any lens I mount.)</p>

 

It's a Bessa R, famous for having misaligned rangefinders just because a breeze blew by. I heard of the cameras leaving stores with the RF in order, and arriving to the buyers already out of whack.

 

That's the only explanation that comes to mind. Perhaps it's time for you to find out how to align the RF yourself.

 

Now... is this the first time it happens? Just wondering...

<p>Well, I have only had the camera a couple weeks. So, I suppose you could assume it arrived this way and I didn't notice it until today.</p>

<p>I don't know if a puff of wind will knock out the RF on the R but not a few of them needed adjustment out of the box, especially when they 1st came out. So you need to either adjust it yourself or get it adjusted unless you have some warranty. Don't ask me how to adjust it.if you google it you may get some info on do it yourself. I remember it wasn't a hugely difficult task.</p>

<p>Adjusting:<br>

I did find several sets of instructions, which were not difficult at all. The plastic clip in the hot shoe comes off easily by inserting two sewing pins from the front and simply wiggling a pit to the rear. The shoe comes off with three screws.</p>

<p>The two adjustment screws are under the shoe. One is a straight blade, the other is a teensy phillips or other cross-shaped head. The straight one adjusts easily and moves the target laterally left and right in the VF. You can actually place the screwdriver into the recess and turn it as you look through the VF. No trouble.</p>

<p>The cross-head is the vertical which would (if you could turn it) move the target up and down in the VF. This ought to have been a 2 minute operation. After an hour I gave up attempting to turn the cross-head screw. It was frozen tight and no amount of cajoling with the teensy tool you are allowed will turn it one iota.</p>

<p>I was underwhelmed at the slipshod machining, and the fact that the screw was frozen. It looks like shoemaker's work under the hot shoe. Ugh. Looks like the top will have to come off to be able to move that screw, or replace it. Obviously poor design here and even poorer manufacture process. Double Ugh.</p>

<p>Good that you found out how to do the adjustment. It's the horizontal alignment which is the more important one. You should still manage even if the vertical images are offset a little.</p>

<p>The horizontal is pretty well dialed in. The vertical is rather badly out. If you imagine an "o" as the coherent target, the "o" looks like an "8" with the two images stacked one atop the other. What is the implication? Do I focus as normal by just lining up the patches? Will my infinity shots be OOF?</p>

<p>Offset images will be an annoyance, but focussing should be okay if you do it on a straight line: camera held horizontally for a vertical line, rotated if the line is not vertical.</p>

<p>Before adjusting the camera, see if the lens is correct. A Leica screwmount lens, when focused to infinity, the rangefinder cam should protrude 7.5mm from the mounting face of the lens. On a Leica M-mount lens, that dimension should be 6.5mm.<br>

If they are both LTM lenses, just focus both at infinity. Put the cam of one of the flange of the other while the flange of the other is on the cam of the one. They should line up straight if you do this.</p>

 

<p>John,<br>

My lens flanges are both equal when fully extended to infinity. The measure 3.75mm from the thread base as measured with a stick end of my calipers.</p>

<p>Now, this morning, after making my best adjustment, the patch is nearly correct. Last night I was using a very distant light out in the dark (there was no moon). My lateral is nearly dead on, and the vertical isn't all that noticeable. I am hoping this is "good." Yeah, I have to go out and take some pictures to see what happens.</p>

<p>I've been unable to locate a service type manual. I have pretty good tools, and I have taken the tops off several other cameras, so I am not averse to it, but I just don't like to do it with no idea of what's under the dial, and so on. Maybe I am worried over nothing? Maybe my adjustment is close enough?</p>

<p>I've had to adjust the vertical alignment on my Bessa R. It isn't that hard, but make sure you have the right screw driver to remove the three screws on the hotshoe. I believe it is either a #00 or #000 Philips head, which can strip very easily. I had 2 screws that came out easily and one that was difficult.</p>

<p>Christopher---<br>

I have plenty of the right screwdriver and had no trouble removing the shoe. My problem is the adjustment screw seems frozen. Did you have any trouble turning the phillips screw?</p>