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Nikonos III


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I could not pass up a deal to buy a Nikonos III for $25. I have done some

snorkel diving in the past but I am sure I will not be scuba diving. My question

is, does anybody of the landlubber persuasion use the cameras on dry land(

maybe inclement weather) for regular picture taking? It has a 35 mm lens

Nikkor with rubber seals and appears to be able to focus as close as 8 in.

One source from the '70's said many pro's would use them as a backup

because of their ruggedness. It has one of the best depth of field indicators,

that are movable with change of aperture, on front of lens that I have ever

seen. Focus is all manual. This model is non-battery. It also has a unique

shutter cocking and release lever that must be designed for underwater use.

So how does the this stack up with other cameras for picture quality? I can't

wait to shoot it.

Dan Deary
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I used a tube of the nikon Grease most of the time. I also used vasoline as well. The grease is really not a seal , it just keeps the O-rings slippery so they so they do not catch and streach out of shape as you are putting on the lens , and attaching the 2 parts of the body. Be sure that you take off the lens before you try an pop open the body, if the lens is still on you will break one of the lugs on the side.
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Daniel, the 35mm is identical to the old rangefinder 35, which is no bad thing! You can use it above or underwater, as you can with the 80mm. Nikon has some dedicated UW lenses like the 28mm which can only be used underwater.

 

I have a 28, and it's much better for UW use, more contrast/ sharper. I use fishing reel silicone grease and have had no problems whatsoever, mind you, I don't go anywhere as deep as I once used to!

 

Tony

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Daniel,

 

Go to any plumbing supply and get yourself a small tube of "Plumbers Grease". It is formulated so as not to deteriorate rubber o-rings and will most likely be a lot less expensive than "Nikon Grease". ;)

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I carry one with me all the time to shoot land and under water, especially things like lake trout, salmon, etc. Very sharp, very quiet, and fairly small... my IV that is. If you don't know the background of the camera I would at minimum get an extra set of rings for it, and some lubricant. Do a search on Nikonos and Dive shops and you'll find some people who carry parts. I'm pretty sure Nikon can help out too.
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  • 2 months later...
Even using the lifters is a bad idea as there is only one nut in the center of the camera thus when you use lifters you are putting a lot pressure onto the sides. Best practice is to lift from the inside after you've taken off the lens.
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  • 5 months later...
<p>I was cleaning up my 3 Nikonos III cameras over the weekend, and think most of the contributions to this thread are right on spot. These days you can get a pretty decent Nikonos III with the 35mm f/2.5 lens for less than $100. No doubt that there are limitations - scale focusing, no metering, only one lens that is well adapted to out-of-the-water use (the shallow DOF of the 80mm makes it difficult to use). But, it is a completley bombproof camera, the fine lens and bright viewfinder make it a pleasure to use, and for those who are old enough to have grown up with scale focusing cameras without metering (I am 68 so this is easy for me) the limitations do not amount to that much. What you get is a camera that works without problems in wet, cold, and dusty/dirty conditions. Sunny 16 is easy these days with the exposure latitude in most consumer reversal films. Scale socusing should not be a problem with a 35mm lens - lots of DOF at f/8 and above. In the summer my Nikonos is great on canoe and kayak trips, and this time of year it is nice not to have to worry about batteries and condensation when I take the Nikonos along on ski and woods trips. Just be careful of the fragile lugs (take out the lens and follow the advice about seperating the body by pushing up on the top through the lens hole, and keep lubricant on the O rings). Compared to other classic scale focusing cameras such as the Retina Ib the Nikonos seem to much more reliable. Oh yes, and with a little care you can get great pictures.</p>
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  • 3 months later...

<blockquote>Even using the lifters is a bad idea as there is only one nut in the center of the camera thus when you use lifters you are putting a lot pressure onto the sides. Best practice is to lift from the inside after you've taken off the lens.</blockquote>

<p>Oops.... I just got a second one in better cosmetic shape (mainly as a collectible) and completely forgot about that. I got my first one a couple of months ago with an instruction book and was overconfident about how to handle this camera after having fiddled with the first one just fine.</p>

<p> So anyway, with camera #2 I tried to remove the lens and it wouldn't come off (forgot to pop it out a bit before twisting). Then I decided to open the body instead. I tried and it was awfully stubborn. I finally grabbed the instruction book from my previous purchase and was reminded of the need to remove the lens first. Now the 'insert' part of the body is very slightly bent up towards the ends; this is visible if I sight along the lip near the top. Not that I was planning on taking this one anywhere deep, but my guess is that it would not be waterproof under any significant pressure. At least now the requirement to remove the lens first is firmly established in my mind. Live and learn...</p>

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