Nikon FE shutter only works in M90 or bulb

Hi,

 

I scoured this forums to try to find a solution to my problem. There are many threads about the shutter or mirror lock up on here but none seem to cover what I am experiencing.

 

My grand-father gave me his old Nikon FE. It has been in storage for many years so I checked the batteries, clean contacts and new batteries the correct orientation. Battery check lights up red and the camera meters (needle moves when I put my hand in front of my lens. All other functions of the camera seem to work.

 

My problem is when I try any other setting than M90 or B. When I press the shutter on 125 lets say, the mirror flips up and stays there. The foam seems in good condition and does not seem to stick. (M90 operation work great). The only way to flip the mirror down is to turn the shutter dial to M90.

 

Normally this would indicate dead batteries but I've verified them with a multi meter and they both read 1.55v.

 

I am not sure if this affects anything, but I am missing the plastic ''clip'' or guide-piece (The black plastic piece) of the battery door, so I put in my batteries in the camera and then thread on the ''door'' with a coin. They don't sound loose.

 

Thanks again,

 

Mark

On the FE, as you apparently know, M90 and B are the only two shutter speeds that don't require battery. If your battery is fine, that may mean that some of the internal wiring related to battery power supply is not working. Nikon introduced the FE in 1978, and I bought mine that year. For a (almost) 40-year-old camera, plenty can go wrong.

You might try tape to make a sleeve for the small battery stack. Can't hurt. Easily removed.

Are you leaving the leverwind out while releasing the shutter?

 

All the elctronics of the camera are switched on and off by the leverwind. Standoff position for on, and pushed in flush for off.

Sorry I did not mention that, but yes, the lever is out and the camera is on (it meters).

I'll try tapping the batteries.

If this camera has sentimental value and you would like to get it functional, for something this old, I would suggest getting it overhauled and back into working condition. If you live in the US, I would try e.g. Authorized Photo Service in the Chicago area: Professional Nikon Service & Repair - Authorized Photo Service, Inc.

 

Otherwise, you can just keep it around. It doesn't have to be fully functional. If you would like to shoot some film, IMO there are better choices such as the Nikon FM2 and F100, etc. Getting another camera maybe cheaper than getting this one fixed, but of course only this one was owned by your grandfather.

Unfortunately, I've seen more than one FE behave similarly.

 

If you want auto-exposure in this style of camera body, the FE2 is, IMO, better in most ways aside from the fact that it's a lot more battery hungry(the faster shutter, both in terms of the flash sync speed and the maximum speed, results in stiffer springs that take more energy for the camera to operate) and can't take pre-AI lenses. If you don't need auto exposure, I'd second Shun's suggestion of an FM2(n). If you have a lot of money lying around, there's also the FM3a, which gives you mechanical operation and auto exposure.

 

There's also one of my favorites from this era-the EL2. It gives auto-exposure and has a silicon metering cell. It's housed in a larger and heavier Nikkormat-type body as compared to the FE/FM series, something which may be a plus or minus for you.

 

The F100 is a great camera, but a totally different beast. It is manual focus(AI) compatible in aperture priority and manual, but otherwise more or less handles like current mid-range DSLRs(two control wheels and a top LCD). I use my F100 a lot.

The problem is more serious because battery check is OK and the meter works so the problem if much further in the camera than near the battery chamber which can be fixed relatively easy.