Need advice on photographing flutes...

Hi all,

 

I've been contacted by a friend to photograph flutes for product pamphlets and

photos for website use. Since the flutes are polished metal (silver and gold)

and highly reflective, I could use all the advice/guidance I can get. I have

some experience with macro jewelry.

 

I don't have a current product/studio lighting setup for something as large as a

flute (~29" in length), so I'd be looking into purchasing/renting equipment.

I've done extensive reading on lighting, but there's A LOT of information out

there. Any real world/practical experience would be MUCH appreciated.

 

I've been advised that a black backdrop with black sides and a single reflector

below and a single reflector above and behind is the way to go.

 

What type of lighting? I own one 580 EX now, but I was thinking that continuous

light would be more advisable in this product photography situation.

 

I'm open to any and all recommendations!

 

Thanks!

~Torin

(The following advice is applicable whether you use continuous or flash or better yet: a studio type (pack and head or monolight) system with a good modeling light.)

 

To get a good even tone i nthe jighlight you want a large diffused light source. You probably wantto be able to control the gradation of light as well. What will work best is a double diffused light source over the top of your set. The easiest way to do this with artificial light is to use a diffusion screen directly over the set and above that place which ever light source you choose to use in a soft box above that. By varying the angle the diffusion screen is tilting relativeto the flute and to the softbox -and you can further enhance the effect y tilting the softbox as well. By doing this simple trick you can achieve a very professional looking range of broad lighting effects and the light will look very, very smooth.

 

In geenral "hot lights (tungsten or quartz-halogen are not idea lfor digital capture as the light is primarily red and yellow and has a very small amount of blue and green in it.

What Ellis said...

 

Hotlights are unsuitable for other reasons too - the heat may or may not be a problem for you or your products, but it will be a problem for your softbox and for other accessories such as honeycomb grids - these problems can be surmounted, but the solutions are expensive. Also, voltage fluctuations will produce inconsistent output and inconsistent colour between shots.

 

HMI lights are fine, but you may not like the price...

 

Some people will probably advise you to buy budget studio flashes but they simply won't produce the consistency or power you need for this type of shoot. They may be OK for portraits but the standards are different for products.

 

This link http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BjHh will take you to the Lighting Themes, most of which will be helpful to you, and the first one to read is probably 'Diffused specular highlights' which directly addresses thsi problem

I'll definitely stay away from hot lights! They might interfere with the pad materials inside the keys anyway...

 

Garry, I'm not finding the "Diffused Specular Highlights", I assume you meant "Controlling Specular Highlights"?

 

Should I be looking for a long fluorescent light source such as a Bowens SL455? (suggested by someone else)

Flutes (At least the ones I am familiar with) have a circular cross section you generally want a width as well as length in the light source. As to length assuming you want the reflection of the light the length of the entire instrument it comes down to simple geometry the distance between the object being photographed and the light source . The short hand way of covering your bases would be to use a diffusion scrim (screen) that is about 42 inches ( slight more than 1 meter ) wide as a minimum. I would use that as your "key" light. Add fil l and accent lights s by using silver or white cards, and for more specular accent, small mirrors. if you are skillful you should be able to make great looking photos with just one light source.

 

Think of it as playing pool with photons and just remember that the angle of reflection = angle of incidence.

 

It will also help to shoot raw instead of JPEGS to get the full dynamic range of your camera without compressing similar highlight and shadow tones. Remember this rule: difference = detail.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Aif6

 

Here's a good thread from the Lighting Themes that will help.

 

It's no wonder you had trouble finding anything useful under Lighting Themes. Apparently the current moderators allow any post at all to be included there. What was once an organized source of lighting reference material is now a catch-all for any and everything. What a shame.

Tom,

 

Sorry, yes, I did mean 'Controlling specular highlights' although the one that Brooks pointed you to is at least as useful.

 

Brooks,

 

I'm not sure that there are any moderators - you and I are still listed...

Garry,

 

How've you been ?

 

Down at the bottom of the page under "about us" Bob Atkins and Josh Root are listed as the moderators of the Lighting Forum.

 

Perhaps it's just a ceremonial position now?

Brooks,

 

I must have been looking in the wrong place, I looked under 'About this forum'.

 

I'm more or less fine now thanks, spend most of my time working and trying to get my shotgun to hit clays - both of which are good if frustrating :-)

Back at ya !<div></div>

Thanks for the information guys! I really appreciate it! I'm off to wade through the lighting themes...