Myanmar travel report

<p>In 2012, things have changed in Myanmar, with the release of Aung Suu Chi, the new Government and a relaxed atmosphere, which is pervading almost everywhere except the troubled North. Which is a no-go area at present.<br>

I went on a 3 week Photographic journey to Myanmar in May/June 2012, taking in Yangon, Bago, Mandalay and areas including Pyin Oo Lwin, Inle Lake, and Bagan. I traveled semi independently using a combination of train travel, internal Flights and car. I used local guides in most of the locations.<br>

Having lived in Cambodia (Siem Reap Angkor) for nearly a decade and visiting most of the adjoining countries in SE Asia I can honestly say that Myanmar was a trip of a lifetime with some of the best temple images and peoples photography I could wish for.<br>

I do strongly advise the use of local independent guides who can give a lot to enhance your visit. I had contact with a company, which was able to obtain guides who were extremely helpful for me as a photographer. Having local guides really opens doors too. (Literally, as on my visit in May, I was able to get inside locked temples to shoot the interior, which otherwise I would not be able to). Being able to have someone to make contact with locals, translate, explain what I was doing, assist with tripod, lighting etc was excellent. My guide in Yangon had previously looked after photographer Steve McCurry on his most recent Geographic Project in Burma. He took me to rarely visited monasteries to get a behind the scenes look, which would not have been possible otherwise or on a normal tour.<br>

The people here are fascinating; with the local tribes congregating in the markets, which are a street photographers paradise. Again a good guide will give you the opportunity to see places and shoot people in locations that would be impossible otherwise. Meeting friends or families of the guides in there own homes, is one of the most delightful aspect of life in SE Asia. Its not something possible with a large group tour.<br>

One of the Highlights was the mountain railway to Pyin Oo Lwin a sensational rail journey; one of the best since my trips to India in the 1990s. A visit to Inle Lake Is a must; the lake is quite small but surrounded with mountains and has a unique lifestyle of the fishermen and farmers in their stilt houses .<br>

After 2-3 weeks seeing the spectacular sights of Myanmar; including the amazing Schwedagon, clad in 60 tons of Gold, and dozens of glittering Buddhist sights, I was almost on the verge of being “templed out”. The fantastic sights of Bagan with 3000, millennium old temples and stupas in a 50 Sq Km area at sunrise, must rate as one of the most amazing sights on this planet.<br>

I have added a link to some of my images<br>

<a href="http://peaceofasia.zenfolio.com/p134321738"> Myanmar images on Zenfolio </a><br>

General info:</p>

<ul>

<li>Visas are easier to get now. If you use Myanmar International Airlines you can get visa on arrival; otherwise you will need to get one in advance.</li>

<li>The Kyat is the Myanmar currency which can be easily exchanged; but not outside the country.</li>

<li>Credit cards and ATMs for Foreigners are not yet available. Cash USD is preferred; notes have to be absolutely new and pristine without folds or marks. There is no possibility of getting cash from abroad at present; so you will need to bring all you need.</li>

<li>English is spoken by most in tourism, but otherwise you will need someone to translate. The Burmese script is difficult and outside of tourist areas signage and numbering is in Burmese.</li>

<li>Weather is tropical; hot most of the year, with a lot or rain and humidity in the south in May to Oct. Bagan is much dryer; so is often dusty for much of the year.</li>

<li>Getting around by land is not for the faint hearted. Buses, taxis and trains are old and rail track poorly maintained. Don’t expect a/c in even the Upper Class Sleeper trains. </li>

<li>Car travel is expensive too (relative to other countries in SE Asia)</li>

<li>Bus travel isn’t great either with long journeys and old buses.</li>

</ul>

<ul>

<li>Roads are fairly good and reasonably well maintained; but distances between the main sights, Yangon, Mandalay, Inle Lake and Bagan, mean long journey times.</li>

<li>Flying is the most comfortable way to go; unless you are willing to rough it. Airports and planes are improving so it’s the only choice if you have limited time.</li>

<li>Hotels are expensive relative to SE Asia. Its possible to get by on less than $50 per night for accommodation, but there are not enough beds for the increasing no of visitors; so hotels are charging higher prices in tourist center’s and cities. $100 to $300 per night can get you a very nice hotel in Yangon and Mandalay. There are budget hotels for $50 or less but you will need to book early.</li>

<li>Food and drink is relatively cheap. Alcohol is a bit more expensive and less available than other countries in SE Asia. </li>

<li>Photo gear is generally pricey and not available anywhere except major cities where choice is very limited.</li>

<li>Photo processing can be done in major towns. Print film is available but slide and medium format, no.</li>

<li>People photography is relatively easy but it helps to get some rapport with your subject .</li>

<li>There are camera and video fees in most temple sites. The fees are not expensive and once you are inside there are no restrictions on tripods.</li>

<li>Most temple sights are named in Burmese only; so if you want to identify your shots later you will need a guide to note the names for you.</li>

<li>Internet is poor, but getting better in some places. Facebook and some email systems are often unavailable.</li>

<li>There is an Internet wi-fi card available in some cities but not widespread. Hotels usually charge for internet. Often you will have to use their PCs as wi-fi may not be available or working</li>

<li>Cell phone roaming is not possible; but with the help of a local, I was able to get a SIM card for business there.</li>

</ul>

<p> Myanmar is an incredible experience for travel and photography; but not the easiest for the independent traveler due mainly to the language and transport problems. Its going to be the Next big thing in Asia; so go before it changes.<br>

Dave Perkes</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Great images Dave. </p>

<p>Dave. A couple of questions. First, whats the standard of accommodation and food like? I'm quite keen to go, but I'm not a backpacker and do tend to vote for a good standard of subsistence .</p>

<p>Second, how did you find your guides? Before you went? After you got to each location? Do you reckon it would be possible to get picked up from the nearest airport by an English-speaking driver/guide who stayed with you for the few days you might be in a particular area?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>You might be interested in this <a href="http://www.lightstalkers.org/posts/travel-photography-from-burma-needed-for-magazine">Burma travel photo</a> request that just showed up at Lightstalkers.</p>

<p>The problem I find with ZenFolio is that we can't see the EXIF shooting data for those photos. Sometimes it is nice to know what they were.</p>

<p>Fascinating post Dave. As a naturalist you wouldn't have any idea about the potential of going into remote areas for wildlife, would you?</p>

<p>David Apologies for my late response but I have been busy running Photo Tours for the last few weeks and only just noticed the comments.<br>

Accommodation is a lot more expensive than in other parts of SE Asia. There are now too many people wanting to come and not enough hotels to go round. $50 to $100 per night would get you comfortable hotel rooms in most places. I budgeted for $50 per night and did OK but this was in low season. If you want more upmarket accommodation $200-$400 in Yangon would get you a great hotel. Personally I'd rather spend the money on a good travel experience using clean budget hotels or guest houses. If you book early and use an agent that will make life easier.<br>

Food was OK, nothing special and most cities do not have much in the way of Tourist restaurants, Yangon is Fine but in Mandalay I had to struggle to find a decent place to eat after 8pm. There are a few western stye restaurants but widely scatted, and some street food places for locals.<br>

Naungshwe near Inle Lake was the best place for food; Bagan was disappointing food wise; I ate in my Hotel most nights. <br>

I arranged my tour through my contacts in the travel trade as I am working with the Co to do Photo Tours in Myanmar.<br>

David, If you send me a PM I can give further info and assistance and put Douglas in touch with someone who may be able to help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you Dave for writing this. This has been very helpful in preparing for a trip I've been planning to take to Burma. I was hoping you could PM me some of those contacts too, I would like to know how to find good local guides.<br>

<br />Thank you.</p>