Minolta CLE lenses

Discussion in 'Leica and Rangefinders' started by www.photo.net/photos/cas, Jan 23, 2004.

  1. I was just wondering if anybody has a good solid info on comparison
    between Leica M 28mm/2.8 and Minolta CLE M Rokkor 28mm/2.8 lenses.
    Also the Minolta CLE M Rokkor 90/4 lens and Leica contrapart.
    I would like to get info from shooters and not so much from bench
    test.
    Thanks,
    Carlos
     
  2. m_.

    m_.

    Carlos:

    I had both Elmarit 28/2.8 and M-Rokkor 28/2.8 and both perform very nicely. However, my Rokkor 28 lens started some time ago to develop some white spots around the edge of the front glass. Although I did not see any effect on images, I sold the lens for about $250 and use the Elmarit 28 on my CLE now. The Rokkor lens is much smaller and I loved it. I am sort of regretting getting rid of the lens. If I had to do it all over again, I probably would sell my Elmarit and use the Rokkor.

    Never used the 90 Rokkor so can't really say much.
     
  3. "...my Rokkor 28 lens started some time ago to develop some white spots around the
    edge of the front glass...

    A common problem with this lens.
     
  4. I have the CLE version of the 90mm F4 Rokkor. The lens is very well made and I am happy with the quality of its performance. I use it with a B+W MRC UV filter and the original lens hood and have had no problems with flare. I have not had any focus problems using the lens on .58 M6TTL, CL and Bessa R2 bodies. I don't have the Leica version to make a comparison. However, my understanding is the CLE version of this lens is an improvement of the original Leica version with slightly diffrent optics and better multi-coating. 4X6 size color prints made using this lens compared to the same subject shot using the 40mm CL version Rokkor amd a 50mm current version Summicron look identical in color, contrast and sharpness.
    0079sV-16259284.jpg
     
  5. I bought a 28mm Rokkor when they first came out. Modern Photography magazine rated it the equal of the contemporary 28 Elmarit at about half the price. The Rokkor was around $200, the Elmarit about $400.
    Eventually it developed the cursed spots to the point the lens was unuseable. It sat in near mint condition in a it's box for a dozen years, complete with original hood and caps, case, etc. and paperwork. Two years ago I put it on the Big Auction Site and got about $425 for it from a Hong Kong collector. Good riddance. It doesn't key the 28mm frameline in M bodies anyway.
     
  6. Personally, I use the 90mm M Rokkor, and it is identical to the Leica Elmar-C in quality, both mechanical and optical.

    As for 28mm lenses, you might want to look at the CV Skopar 28mm f3.5. It is an extremely sharp lens that is also incredibly compact.

    Personally, I use the CV 25mm f4 Skopar, and it too makes a nice fit with the CLE, because the viewfinder window itself is a good approximation of the 25mm frame. It is also very sharp, very compact, and very economical, and makes a better match with a Minolta CLE outfit that also has the 40mm lens, because the 25mm is more noticeably wider than the 40mm. But with this lens, you need to get used to the fact that it is a scale focusing lens, and is not RF coupled - not really a big problem because depth of field on a 25mm f4 lens is pretty wide. If I didn't already have the 40mm Rokkor, I would have gotten the 28mm CV Skopar rather than the 25mm, however.
     
  7. Carlos

    The 90mm Rokkor made for the Leica CL and Minolta CL (not sure about the CLE version but I very much doubt it, as L and M had split) was made by Leica and rebadged as a Rokkor.

    Regards Bruno
     
  8. Thanks to all for the quick responce.I have the opportunity to buy a Minolta 28mm/2.8 and a 90mm/4 for US$ 600. They are in excellent condition with the exception of a tiny, very little white spot that everyone is talking about on the 28mm. I'm wondering how long it would take for the spots to spread on the lens if it does at all. I'm going to be using them on a M6.
    Thanks again,
    Carlos
     
  9. Regrettably I parted with my 28 Rokkor because it was part of the complete CLE outfit I was offered an exorbitant amount for. I then traded for a Elmarit 28 that seemed no better optically and was nowhere near as compact or lightweight. The images made with the Rokkor were every bit as satisfactory as the Elmarit’s. If you can find a good Rokkor go for it and use it ‘til it develops problems. By that time someone will probably offer repair service at a reasonable price.
     
  10. The CLE 28 is a good lens and as someone has mentioned the equal of the Elmarit of the same period. THe white spot problem is the number one thing that detracts from this lens. Its true that if slight it doesnt affect the images but there is no way to determine how far the spot problem will spread. I have seen some that the never developed the problem, some the spots never spread past the outer rim but then others that went the whole way over and made the lens unusable. These lenses cant be fixed to new condition anymore, just cleaned partially which removes the coating and the lenses then flare substantially. I would normally suggest you leave this lens to collectors. Since its paired with a 90mm in your case makes it a harder decision. I think I would recomend you get a 90mm Rokkor seperately and the Voigtlander 28mm f3.5 instead. It will probably cost around the same and the Voigtlander the better lens optically.

    As to the 90's, there were two 90mm f4 Rokkors. One made by Leitz for the Leitz Minolta CL and the other made by Minolta in Japan for the CLE. The two versions although sharing a similar 4 element design are not the same lens. Minolta altered the optics of the CLE version in that its center to edge performance is more uniform. The Elmar-C/Rokkor isnt as good at the edges as the CLE version but its center performance is greater than that of the CLE lens. You have to choose which you value most. The CLE version of course also has a conventional M cam. These lenses are very common, so take your time, shop around and find a good one at a bargain. And get the Voigtlander 28 f3.5 to pair with it and you can then also get correct framelines if you use a 28/90 adapter with an M. The CLE 28 will bring up 35mm framelines on an M.
     
  11. If you're using them on an M6, then I'd go a different route altogether. I'd get either a 90mm Elmarit f2.8, a 90mm f3.5 CV APO-Lanthar, or a 90mm f2.8 Hexanon. They are all faster than the Rokkor, and all are roughly equal optically (they are all OUTSTANDING lenses, any one of which will do the job). In the 28mm space, I'd be looking at the 28mm f2.8 Elmarit, the 28mm f2.8 Hexanon, or either of the two CV lenses, the 28mm f1.9 Ultron, or the 28mm f3.5 Skopar.

    The Rokkor 28mm lens is problematic because the spots get worse, and the lens then becomes unuseable.
     
  12. These white spots coming to the CLE M Rokkor 2,8/28mm lens, was this a problem
    Minolta solved after a certain production number - or is this only a matter of time
    and/or usage of the lens - maybe even a climate problem ?
    Does anybody know where to find a manual/description of the CLE 40/90/28 lenses,
    if there was any coming with the new lenses........
    Kind Regards and thanxx for any answer
     
  13. I have a Rokkor 28mm lens without any white spots. Maybe I am lucky?
     
  14. I bought my Minolta CLE and the Minolta Rokkor 28, 40, & 90 mm lenses back in 1981. The 28 did develop those spots in the first five or ten years. I sent the lens to Minolta and they fixed it. I don't know if they replaced the front lens element or what, but when I got the lens back, the spots were gone. I have now had the lens for 37 years and the spots have never returned. The lens is clear like a brand new lens after 37 years. If you have an opportunity to purchase the 28 mm lens without spots now, I would recommend buying it.
     
  15. I had 'em both, and they produced identical results except at f:2.8, where the Minolta wasn't quite as good.
     
  16. This simply isn't true.
    This "Schneideritis" symptom is simply the black element edge paint developing 'tiny' cracks (They look like bubbles).
    Remove the group, strip away the old 'defective' paint, spin the lens group while reapplying new black paint.

    "removes the coating" ? - This isn't a soft-coating 1950's era lens; sounds like an amateur hack conducting the cleaning...
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2018

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