Mamiya 'C' series light seals

Hello,

 

I would appreciate it if anyone could put me in the right direction for Mamiya C3 light seals. The original seals are so degraded I really can't tell much about them. Mostly I need to know what thickness to use: doing a search, you can get generic seals anywhere between 1.0mm and 5.0 mm. There are also various materials: open-cell, semi-open-cell etc. I know I can order specific kits for the C3 but only from the US (can't find them in Europe), but the last time I ordered something from the US I paid 3 times the original cost in duty and taxes - so not worth it. In the end, maybe it isn't so important which one I use, but any advice would be great.

 

thanks in advance.

Laurie

I seem to remember buying some generic adhesive backed black foam at the local art/craft store. It was thin, maybe .5 or 1 mm. Seemed to work fine.

I seem to remember buying some generic adhesive backed black foam at the local art/craft store. It was thin, maybe .5 or 1 mm. Seemed to work fine.

 

Thank you very much Conrad. I will report back when I try it.

 

Laurie

Just be careful with thickness: if the foam is too thick, the film door can become harder to close. It will latch but not completely, leaving a tiny gap where light can leak in unless you always remember to firmly press the top corners fully home. I had this issue bite me with a couple C bodies I owned, whose prior owners put in rather thick replacement seals.

 

BTW, use a flashlight to closely examine the body door channels before proceeding: Mamiya TLRs employ a combination of foam on the hinged door and black yarn on the body for light sealing. The yarn is often completely intact even on the oldest circa-1962 C3 bodies: don't replace it or cover it over with foam unless it looks noticeably degraded.

I got a couple of C330's a few months ago and ordered a light seal kit but wanted to shoot before they arrived. The felt I was using was too thick to close the door and I discovered it after I'd removed the old stuff. Heard that it wasn't really that important so I just shot without it. Neither of my bodies have shown light leaks so I haven't even installed the new seals.

I just received a C3 not too long ago. I ordered some precut foam from Ebay (I think the seller was in the UK), installed it when it arrived, and it was perfect.

Just be careful with thickness: if the foam is too thick, the film door can become harder to close. ....

 

Thank you Orsetto. Sorry for the late reply - for some reason I don't get any notifications from this thread. I'll start thin and if it needs it I can always change it for slightly thicker foam. Thanks for the heads-up about the yarn.

I got a couple of C330's a few months ago and ordered a light seal kit but wanted to shoot before they arrived. The felt I was using was too thick to close the door and I discovered it after I'd removed the old stuff. Heard that it wasn't really that important so I just shot without it. Neither of my bodies have shown light leaks so I haven't even installed the new seals.

 

That's interesting. On my unit I did definitely get some leakage and it showed up on the negatives. As a temporary fix I put some cloth tape over the door join where the leak seemed to be coming from and this solved it. I haven't had time to order seals yet - hopefully this month sometime. Thanks (sorry for the late response - I don't seem to be getting notifications from this thread).

I just received a C3 not too long ago. I ordered some precut foam from Ebay (I think the seller was in the UK), installed it when it arrived, and it was perfect.

 

Thanks Nathan. If you happen to remember the seller's name would you mind PMing it to me? Thanks in advance.

OMG, I'm so sorry. Day late, dollar short. I purchased it from USCAMERA. It was $12.

Easy black felt strips with thin double sided tape. Or self adhesive foam tape

I had a C3, I only upgraded to C33 for the paralax correction even tho its not really needed. The C3 is a nicer camera to use over the C33. But would I swap my C33 for a C330 ? NO.