jerry_ilo1 Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 I am going to shoot a class reunion soon and was wondering about lighting the class photo. How do go about properly lighting a large group of people (about 60-80 people). Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografz Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Big mono strobe high on stand aimed down with large light modifier ... or if the ceiling is white or light neutral, bounce off it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitchfalk Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Rent a 4803 speedotron pack and a couple of 102 heads,set them for 2400 watts apiece shot into 2 60' umbrellas should do the trick. This will probably give you f16. for the DOF that you need to get the back row in focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Use daylight if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry_ilo1 Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 Unfortunately there is no place that rents ANYTHING like that in Hawaii. I was thinking maybe a couple or even a few monos might do the trick. I have never worked with them before so at least I got a couple months to practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_madio Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 I've done groups this size with 2 lights (standard reflector ... no umbrellas, softbox, etc.). Place the key 35 degrees off axis from the camera and aimed at the opposite end of the group. Place the fill (-1 stop from key) at camera position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Look at Danny Wong's response in the following post, as well as others. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00B5iJ I've done the two flashes on opposites sides of the camera routine with groups of the size you mention. It works fine. You could do it with medium power flashes too--no need for really heavy duty flashes, although outside in bright Hawaiian sunshine, you may feel pinched for flash power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgreer Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 If I'm traveling light, I use two stands with silver umbrellas at 45 degrees to the left and right of the group with SB800s as the light source. The umbrellas should be about 8' off the ground (at least). If I want more light or power I mount 2 SB800s per stand (4 total). If I want a better quality of light then I bring out my Profoto studio lights. As an aside, if you use a single light like someone suggested, you might get light falloff at the edges of your frame. That's why I'd recommend 2 lights, each one at a 45 degree angle to the group. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry_ilo1 Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 The day light solution would work best, unfortunately the event will be in the evening so even if I get them out doors I will still need some fill. I like the simplicity of the two light approach for sure. What kind of watts are we talking here, I was thinking of just going and buying 2 1600 effective(whatever that means) watt heads and umbrellas is that enough? Sorry for the questions but I am a newb when it comes to this kind of lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Depends on what ISO and apertures you want to use, which might be dependent on how big a print you need later, and what modifiers, if any, you put on the flashes. 1600 watt seconds would probably be fine and overkill for no modifiers on the flashes, even at ISO 100. How big of a final print do you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry_ilo1 Posted April 13, 2007 Author Share Posted April 13, 2007 The final prints will be 8x10's. The reason I was looking at 1600's (AB's) with soft boxes or umbrellas is I can stop them down if need be, and isn't always better to have the power to spare? I really appreciate the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charles_gorner Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 just been doing test to prove lighting of large groups, groups up to 24 good results achieved with sb 28 speedlght set on top fuji s2 pro at 125 f11 gave good results 25 to 50 group 2xsb 28 speedlights wired in paralel either side of s2 pro 125 f11 excelent results flashes set to ttl on both tests. also did shot of 50 group with camera set to p and no flash the result was excelent but tri pod esential as slow shutter speed activated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 If you're going to use them with softboxes and other modifiers, then they'd be fine, because you need lots of power since you need to place the flashes at adequate distances from the group. For 8x10s, I commonly use ISO 400 and f5.6 (inside) if the group isn't deeper than 4 tightly packed rows. If you have other uses for the flashes and money is no object, they'd be great, and yes, you can always dial down. The only time this becomes irritating is if you can't dial down enough. Also, be careful if using umbrellas and softboxes outside due to the wind factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWebster Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 My wife snapped this shot at my class reunion using the Canon 20D with the kit lens 18-55 at 25mm, F8, 1/100, iso 400. One Vivitar 283 flash on full power did the job. I used a 150 pixel feather in photoshop to select the ends of the group to boost the levels to correct for light fall-off. I cropped, put two copies on a 12x18 canvas for Costco printing so that each 6x18 print only cost $1.50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWebster Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 This is the original shot of the class reunion before processing in photoshop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry_ilo1 Posted April 15, 2007 Author Share Posted April 15, 2007 Thanks for the input folks,you are all very helpful! Although money is always an object I do want to do the best job possible, and although I wont be using them a lot I know that I will always have uses for them later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now