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Kodachrome KR135-20P: K-12 or K-14 process?


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I just got an old camera with a 30 years old (informed guess) roll of

Kodachrome in it. I suppose it requires the old K-12 process, but how

to be sure? The film is ISO 64, 20 exposures and the top and bottom

caps show black and yellow stripes.

 

If you can confirm it's K-12, them I might be tempted to process it

myself as classic B&W negative. Anyone has a starting point to propose

for such a job? I usually soup my negs in Rodinal.

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What you have is Kodak Catalog # 155 9954; Size 135-20 ; Spec <b>KR135-20</b> ; which is Kodachrome 64; the newer K-14 process. The slower Kodachrome 25 was tagged as spec KM135. This is from the Kodak Photographic Products catalog; p4 of 1975-1976. The did not use the KR and KM tags in the old Kodachrome II and X boxes; which was for the old K-12 process.<BR><BR>Kodachrome-X was available for the first instamatics; about 1963/1964. Before about 1962; Kodachrome was just Kodachrome; if in daylight; and an ASA of 10. Kodachrome taged as K135 for 35mm; and K828 for Bantam in the old ASA 10 films. Kodachrome Professional B was once available in sheet form with sizes up to 11x14 INCHES; this was a 3200 K temperature film; the Daylight sheet film was an ASA of 12 in 1946.
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Wow, Kelly, THAT'S a definitive answer!

 

Now, what should I do? I suppose that if I have this thing processed, the colors will be way off, as well as contrast and exposure. Processing it myself as a B&W negative should be feasible, but perhaps tricky. And there's always the option of keeping it as a collectible.

 

But as I'm likely to figure 30 years younger on these pictures, I'm tempted to give it a try.

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I'm thinking it would be best to develop as B&W negative. My concern is that the spectral sensitizing dyes are probably gone. The K-14 process still relies upon red light, then blue light to reverse the image and provide accurate color development. So, I think B&W is the way to go. Figuring out how much development will be a bit trickier. Sorry I don't have advice for you in that regard. Remember to remove the rem-jet backing from the non-emulsion side of the film. Removing remjet first might help you guage better development time if you are working yourself in a darkroom.
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  • 4 years later...

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