Is a hand held light meter necessary for digital landscape photography?

<p>I recently decided to start refining my technique shooting landscapes using the zone system. I have been reading that handheld spot meters are used rather frequently as opposed to the in camera meters. So my question is, do handheld spot meters really offer much of a difference in digital landscapes, or can the same results be achieved with in camera metering(spot)? <br>

I am aware of HDR, as well as GND filters etc and have been using both... But I am really trying to step up my photos to the next level, and use the zone system.<br>

My goal is to be able to build a photograph in post the way I envisioned it while taking it, while using the meter to place objects in different zones of light prior to composing the final piece. <br>

Currently I use a Canon 5D Mark III, and I am considering the Sekonic L-758 DR<br>

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.<br>

Thank you in advance </p>

<p>"Is a hand held light meter necessary for digital landscape photography?"<br /><br />No, not at all.<br /><br />A handheld spot meter was essentially in the days of film photography and the Zone System. And I still use a handheld flash meter to set up lighting in the studio. But for landscape work, it's not going to give you anything you can't figure out just as quick from shooting and chimping.</p>

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<p>“do handheld spot meters really offer much of a difference in digital landscapes, or can the same results be achieved with in camera metering(spot)?”</p>

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<p>I use Canon 5D's and I also have a Sekonic L-758D (which I believe is the "R" version minus only the radio trigger).</p>

<p>I use my Cameras' TTL Meter in "Spot" Mode at least 60% of the time and often make a couple or even three readings inside expansive scenes and usually compute the final <strong><em>single exposure</em></strong> in my head. For greater accuracy of any single file, the above described procedure combined with shooting an Exposure Bracket, typically ±⅔ Stop, has been very reliable to get me a very accurate file being exactly as I predicted.</p>

<p>I don’t have any reason to use my Sekonic in SPOT mode for Landscape or similar work: I use my Sekonic in the Studio and also (not so often but) sometimes, as an Incident Light Meter both for outside and inside Available Light shooting.</p>

<p>The Sekonic L-758D (and any other quality HH Meter) can be a very valuable tool, but with an EOS 5D MkIII, I think you are wasting money buying the Sekonic just to use it for Spot metering Landscape Scenes. </p>

<p>***</p>

 

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<p>“My goal is to be able to build a photograph in post the way I envisioned it while taking it, while using the meter to place objects in different zones of light prior to composing the final piece. <strong><em>Any insight would be greatly appreciated</em></strong>.” </p>

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<p>If I understand the meaning correctly, you MUST be using HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) to achieve this, in which case SEVERAL exposures will have to be made: so it occurs to me that one major logistic will be to keep an accurate record of the where each different zone of light is located in the scene and relate that to the exposure you used for it.</p>

<p>Also appreciate that the Camera’s TTL Meter assumes the Spot Meter Target is about 18% Photographic Grey: although we can debate maybe 12%~14.5% is closer to the mark which in real life terms should not be a problem once you are:<br>

(a) Competent at computing your “zones” and<br>

(b) Knowledgeable of the compensations for objects you meter, which are not Photographic Grey <br>

<br>

WW<br>

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<p>Yes and No. For the usual photography, if you know what you are doing, you are fine with the camera spot meter.<br>

However the 758DR can be calibrated to your camera dynamic range and it will display this along with metered readings, so you can see at once (before taking any photos) if the scene fits into your sensor or not.<br>

Also it can average multiple readings which you have to do in your head or some application since DSLRs do not support any exposure operations other than shifting exposure.</p>

<p>When I used high contrast slide film, with very limited ability to record scene brightness ranges above say 4.5-5 stops, every exposure was spot metered normally at least several times, and an exposure calculated that made sure (insofar as it was possible) that the highlights weren't blown out and there was detail in the shadows. Sometimes that required the use of graduated neutral density filters, sometimes it was pretty much an impossible task even with them. But the exposure process worked and I used it on every shot.</p>

<p>But dslrs have a wider dynamic range than slide film and you have the opportunity to see instantly via your histogram (not the way the image looks on the screen) whether you have achieved a good exposure or not. So its easier to expose usefully and very simple to check whether you've got it right. These factors have changed fundamentally - for me anyway- how I take photographs. Not only do I not feel the need to use a hand-held meter, but with the aid of grads (that I still use extensively ), I rarely have to use in-camera spot metering and in fact rarely change the metering mode away from evaluative. If I make a mistake, I'll bin it and do it again. Its still easier than taking multiple spot readings on every shot. </p>

<p>I think the equivalent of the zone system for today's landscape photographers is first to ensure that you have detail in all important areas of your photograph by controlling overall exposure. I believe that will in itself require you to be proficient with grads or HDR or both, and possibly fill flash too. Second become proficient/expert at the use of selection tools and techniques and the tools available for adjusting the exposure, colour, saturation, brightness etc of the various elements contained in your composition. <br>

For me, Live View has become a crucial component of how I compose and control landscapes with a dslr. Not only does it help me to see better what I'm doing but the magnified views have made a huge difference to focussing. I'm always surprised at how approximate auto focus can be, and even with manual focus the incorrect choice of point of sharpest focus can result in shots where far too much of the scene is not focussed well. The ability to get the critical areas in sharp focus and check whether the other scene elements will be rendered satisfactorily is by far superior to both autofocus and indeed to any focus control technique accessible to me when using film. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>You should also consider "exposing to the right", so that you do not lose detail across the 5 exposure "quadrants" .......<a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/11/07/expose-to-the-right-the-camera-technique-every-landscape-photographer-must-know/">here is a good explanation</a></p>

<p>Thank you all for your insight and responses!</p>

<p>So if I am understanding you correctly, the light meter would be beneficial but not beneficial enough to purchase it, due to the fact that the same results can be accomplished through in camera metering as well as HDR image processing? I read the article about exposing to the right and I am going to try that this weekend when I go out on another shoot!</p>

<p>Some have explained things to me like this: Your cameras histogram is great, although it is unreliable in the sense that it is not telling you where and what needs to be moved into a different zone/ exposure bracket. Therefore, using a light meter is invaluable if you use it to properly place different items in different zones, to ensure the overall detail and values of your composition remain clear... But then again, you still would have to blend the exposures in post essentially making it an HDR image again, which can be countered by taking several exposures at different EV's and blending them into the correct zones later, and with the use of filters... am I understanding that correctly?</p>

<p>I guess what my motive is to have the ability to meter something in the composition, move it into a different zone taking notes of which image # it was, and what the zone change was/ subject matter. Then blend in post, and create a final image. Also, I like that I would have the ability to read the light and the difference in stops between foreground/background etc and compensate using filters with a set exposure already determined by the meter. I will admit, I have have much to learn about exposure and metering properly, I have yielded good results thus far without using one, but really want to get to understand why they were good compared to others, and be able to control the dynamic range of the images I produce.</p>

<p>You can see some of my work here, I have not used the zone system up to this point.</p>

<p>www.nicholasalbert.com</p>

<p><img src="http://www.nicholasalbert.com/p759027020/e606820f1" alt="" /><br>

I took this last year using the M3 and a 3 stop hard GND </p>

<p ><a href="/photodb/user?user_id=1540447">Mark Sanderson</a> , said:</p>

 

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<p>You should also consider "exposing to the right", so that you do not lose detail across the 5 exposure "quadrants" .......<a href="http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/11/07/expose-to-the-right-the-camera-technique-every-landscape-photographer-must-know/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here is a good explanation</a></p>

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<p>Plus 1 on this. Whether using in-camera metering (that's what I do) or a hand held meter, don't expose the sensor as if it's film, or you'll lose dynamic range.</p>

<p>Turn on the warning in your Preview screen, to let you know if you're blowing out important highlights. Also, look at the Histogram. Yes, the Histogram in your Preview screen may not be entirely accurate, but you have the luxury to bracket around the indicated exposure. Use that flexibility to your advantage.</p>

<p>Realistic HDR is also an option to increase your DR beyond your camera's capability. HDR does not have to look like a cartoon. When I use it, occasionally, one goal is that my viewer will not know that I used HDR. Of course, you've also got your ND filters, but HDR can be as quick and more effective, when done right.</p>

 

<p>I don't think a spotmeter is necessary but it is very practical.</p>

<p>Since you usually lock down the camera on a tripod it nice to have the spot meter to explore the scene in more detail and to find out what exposure you want.</p>

<p>I don't have one but I've missed one on many occasions. Every time this happens I curse myself for not having bought one but I think they are too expensive so I've managed without. I do have a regular incident meter though.</p>

<p>Regarding the Sekonic L-785D I think you should buy one if you can afford it. You will learn a lot about exposure using one. Later on you may find that you perhaps want to shoot in another way and then you can sell it. They are attractive used so it will not be hard to get rid of it.</p>

 

<p>One more thing, EVERY DSLR shows you the histogram of a processed 8bit jpeg. Even if you shoot raw, you get the histogram after whit balance and default curve applied. So you do NOT know how much headroom in the highlights you realy have. One way around this is to use UNIWB or similar approach if possible.</p>

<p>Basically you have to know all the flaws of the camera meter/processing ...</p>

<p>With a light meter, there are not such issues :-)</p>

<p>Lubos said:</p>

 

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<p>One more thing, EVERY DSLR shows you the histogram of a processed 8bit jpeg. Even if you shoot raw, you get the histogram after whit balance and default curve applied. So you do NOT know how much headroom in the highlights you realy have. One way around this is to use UNIWB or similar approach if possible.<br>

Basically you have to know all the flaws of the camera meter/processing ...</p>

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<p>This is absolutely true, BUT, from day-one, you know that you have more DR than the histogram shows. With just a little practice, you can develop a feel for how far you can go without blowing it (literally). For shooting wildlife and fast action, this is almost essential knowledge. For landscape and some other photography, the luxury of hand held meter might be nice, particularly while learning your camera. Still, I find it so easy to bracket that I feel totally confident that, one way or another, I'll be able to get the DR that I need.</p>