Infrared photography first steps

<p>Hello everyone,<br>

I have just started to try IR photography with my Nikon D3200 and a "cheap Ebay filter" IR720 from a brand called "digital HD", or "dHD".<br />I have tried it out twice already and none of the times I got the white vegetation like it was supposed to.<br />The filter looks more like a simple red filter than actually IR. Any ideas? Can it be the WB? I tried to set it with the patch-of-grass technique. Can be filter be of too bad quality, letting in a lot more visible light than actually IR? I read that the wavelength of these cheap filter is not as precise as a Hoya, so maybe this one is just too close to visible light.</p>

 

<p>Thanks for any input! I'm happy to provide any other files and any other info!<br>

(Here is one of my last tries, shot in RAW, after using custom WB profile with (DNG profile editor), plus Blue/Red channel invertion in photoshop)</p>

<p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zb_hLNvbP7xxSPCS6Ludyd6myjGYyj1Tm6D8341VpqW823wLLgkBCzjAuOkUDIdsCAicLAp1hvE=w1280-h544" alt="" width="819" height="544" /></p>

 

<p>A 720 cutoff filter still will allow a lot of red light to pass through. Buy a 820nm or higher IR filter and you'll see more of the white grass and leaf look.<br>

Just be aware that your exposure times will also increase. </p>

<p>Your sample photo isn't showing up here. Sounds like you've already tried the usual trick - white balance on some green foliage before the red/blue channel swap. If you're using Lightroom there are some free presets that can enhance the b&w and color IR effects. In some cases fiddling with the camera calibration adjustments can enhance the effect.</p>

<p>If that isn't working it could be the filter, but before buying a better filter first check to see whether the D3200 is suitable for IR without modification. My old Nikon D2H works fine for IR even without a proper infrared filter -- I'm using a combination of a Tiffen red 25A, Cokin neutral circular polarizer and Cokin Pola Red-Green. But the D2H was always notoriously sensitive to near-IR. The same filter combo does not produce any IR effect with my other digicams.</p>

<p>Also, if you happen to have a polarizer, try it with your IR filter just to see what happens. In some cases adjusting the polarizer can cut more visible light and produce more of an IR effect.</p>

<p>Thanks! I am considering indeed buying a new filter, but would like to understand if this one is actually in good condition or it is came faulty.<br>

Lex Jenkins, yes, I have used Lightroom and I have tried the usual trick. I followed a couple of websites, but this one sums it up (http://photography.tutsplus.com/tutorials/an-in-depth-guide-to-infrared-photography-processing--photo-9540).<br>

In terms of the D3200 being sensitive to IR, I tried the remote trick and it captured the light (http://s28.postimg.org/uqwvw17ct/DSC_0710.jpg). I do not have access to those filters you named, so is there any other way I can test that? All I have is a ND8, ND1000, and a [cheap] IR720 :)<br /><br /></p>

 

<p>Apologies, the link to the image in the first post is broken. Here it is again:<br /><br /></p>

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<p>Actually your sample photo looks about right for an IR720 filter. Looks good, a bit of an otherworldly effect, a nice disorienting mix of recognizable and unfamiliar colors in a landscape. I wouldn't expect much more of a Wood Effect from that filter with most current dSLRs.</p>

<p>Regarding the infrared remote test trick, some remotes emit visible red light as well so it's not always a reliable test. Another test is to use the burner on an electric range. Get it almost but not quite glowing red. Photograph it with the IR filter. Try it with and without any kitchen or room lights (preferably fluorescent lamps, not incandescent or halogen). The IR720 filter should show the burner as white or very light gray, with some of the room visible depending on how bright the room lights are. An 820nm or higher IR filter will cut out more room light.</p>

<p>In winter it can be tricky to find enough daylight to experiment with IR. You can run more tests indoors easily. All you need is a desk lamp with an ordinary incandescent bulb - frosted it okay, clear is better - and a house plant. The lamp doesn't need to be particularly close to the plant - a foot or so away is good.</p>

<p>So, you can get some interesting results on the cheap. Decide later if it's worth pursuing with "better" filters. Personally I'm leaning more toward an IR-conversion mirrorless model, rather than spending more money on an IR filter for my dSLR. I like the idea of an IR-converted mirrorless model for handheld use, so I won't be tied to the tripod. With my dSLR and filters, even at higher ISOs some exposures can take several seconds - even up to 30 seconds - in daylight. Not practical for including people in the scene.</p>

<p>Here are a couple of my first IR tests with the D2H and filter combo I described, on an orchid...<br /> ...by a single desk lamp with a clear 40 watt decorative bulb...<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17807396-md.jpg" alt="Infrared orchid." width="542" height="679" border="0" /></p>

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<p>...and another the next day, about 45 minutes before sunset with diffuse sunlight...<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17808592-md.jpg" alt="IRchid" width="452" height="680" border="0" /></p>

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<p>...and the same orchid plant by late afternoon sunlight through west facing window (minus the blooms, which had dropped off by then). No red/blue channel swap - I don't always like the channel swap effect.<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17838588-md.jpg" alt="noIR" width="450" height="680" border="0" /></p>

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<p>A large leather-brown mushroom in a nearby field, near sunset facing into the setting sun, without the red/blue channel swap...<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17823939-md.jpg" alt="Blue 'shroom, I saw you standing alone" width="544" height="680" border="0" /></p>

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<p>...and the same mushroom in more direct sunlight, with the red/blue channel swap...<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17876945-lg.jpg" alt="From where the sun now stands, I will golf no more forever." width="464" height="700" border="0" /><br /> <br />...the golf balls were actually bright fluorescent yellow practice balls, not white.</p>

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<p>BTW, I see some long shadows in your sample photo. Try closer to the midday peak. It'll help, especially in winter. Should get closer to the Wood Effect on foliage. Personally I like the less dramatic effect and usually shoot closer to early morning or very late afternoon, where the foliage tends to look dusky gray and just... odd. It's not obviously infrareddish, just disorienting. In my run down semi-urban neighborhood it tends to lend a post-apocalyptic look of gray ash over the vacant fields and weeds. Suits my taste.</p>

<p>see also http://www.infrareddreams.com/how_to_shoot_ir.htm<br>

and <br>

http://www.outdooreyes.com/photo94.php3 <br>

and many other web sources under "infrared photography"</p>