I'm not sure how to title this post.

<p>Nor was I sure where to put my post, so I chose the beginner forum. I'm feeling a little bit lost, both with the proper use of this site and in my own photography journey, and I think I'm looking for some conversation to help clear my mind.</p>

<p>First, let's clear up or talk about my confusion with the site. I know there's a discussion right now in the casual forum about the future/present-day role this site plays in the lives of the photographers who use it. I want to start off saying that I don't post much in the way of either work or words, but I read. Everything. Articles old and new, threads, classifieds, all of it. I'm here every day, not usually signed in but lurking, reading new threads and looking at your work. And there are several people whose names and experience I have come to recognize, whose words of wisdom I have begun to trust. Some I have even dared to tell privately. So, to those of you (and I don't dare list your names, lest I forget someone - but if you frequent the Nikon forum, you probably are one of those) that have taught me without knowing it, I thank you. But what I'm unsure of about the site is - I would like to start getting feedback on my work but I'm unsure about how to do it. I know there is a critique forum, but for some reason I get the impression that it's a happenstance thing - your image goes into a rotation, and maybe someone will see it, but maybe not. And, it seems that many of the comments I have seen on others' images in that forum are not as constructive as I would want for mine. It's nice to get a lot of "nice work" and "pretty colors" comments, don't get me wrong. Perhaps I am not understanding that forum? Or not looking in the right place? Please, point me in the right direction. Is there a better, more sure-fire, appropriate place for help with images? Is it appropriate to post a "how could this be better" thread on a single image in the beginner forum? Or the portrait or nature forums, if applicable? I don't want to do the wrong thing.</p>

<p>My next topic for discussion is a larger one. I have a Nikon d7000, the 18-105mm kit lens, the 35/1.8, sb700, Manfrotto tripod and head, a nice bag, a couple books (d7000 for Dummies and a few Bryan Peterson books on exposure), and Photoshop CS5. I've taken a few local beginner classes on both photography and Photoshop and I have a tutorial book for PS as well. Oh, and I also got a stand w/umbrella for my flash. I'm sort of intimidated however by the off-camera flash thing yet. I've determined that I like landscapes, and I like portraits. And of those two, portraiture is my passion. I love to shoot people. I mean...well, if you're reading this, you know what I mean. I love taking a chance on a pose or background, and then tweaking it in PS. And I absolutely love when a photo in my mind comes to fruition on my monitor. So what's my point/question? Well, I guess I am wondering what's next, where do I go from here, what should my priorities be as far as equipment purchases, should I save for full-frame or is there no reason, etc. If I had to order those questions, I can say that I know what's next: just keep shooting and doing what I love, right? I am not costing myself any money by using what I have got, continuing to learn my camera and that scary flash. I'm certainly still a beginner and have a lot farther to go than what I have already come, which in my own personal opinion is pretty far in the last year or so. Where do I want to go? I would love to build a small side business doing family/senior portraits. I love making people happy when they see their pictures, and i've had a few small successes.</p>

<p>I do know a few things. I like my zoom lens. I hate my prime lens and never use it. But do I wish I had a faster zoom. Two of them, actually. I've been making my wish list, and at the top is the 70-200/2.8. Right up there is the Sigma 17-50/2.8 - but I hesitate because isn't that a DX lens, and what if I want my next body to be full-frame? What are the better tools for portraiture? What other lenses might I consider? Other bodies?</p>

<p>I also know I could use a reflector. But which one? Does it matter? And with regards to lighting and flash - it's very overwhelming to me but I think learning to use light to my advantage will take me to another level. But where to start? Can someone recommend a book or tutorial ?</p>

<p>And, Lightroom: do I need it?</p>

<p>How about monitors? I just have an Acer H233H. I'm not planning to print at home right now but I think I could benefit from a quality monitor.</p>

<p>I guess I'm looking support on what to keep doing/do next/how to best spend my money so that I'm not buying gear to buy gear. I am sorry for the rambling nature of this post but I look forward to your comments to help me find direction!</p>

<p>It seems you have the potential to do very good work with your current equipment and connections with this community. Are there photo meets or clubs in your area? Or perhaps a mentor pro or semi-pro? Perhaps you have the financial resources to do a photo tour or weekend workshop. Over the years I've grown most in my imaging when interacting with others who shared in the interest of making good images even better.</p>

<p>Two probably familiar replies: for a book, Light Science and Magic is one that I can heartily recommend, even though it isn't specifically aimed at portrait work, and as for equipment, you have indicated a desire for more lens speed in a zoom lens. For individual portraits, that 70 - 200 would be a great choice if you can deal with the size and weight, and it would also work on a full frame Nikon if you decide to go that route. Are you happy with the quality of the images you are getting now? If you are, then spend on the lens you really want and keep the current body. If you are interested in studio portraiture then lighting should be your next investment in both learning and equipment (in that order). While full frame cameras certainly have advantages, plenty of professionals work with DX and get great results--see comments from Kent Staubus on Photonet, they would be helpful for you, I think.</p>

<p>Renee, in terms of feedback on your work, here's my suggestion. You're right. The critique forum itself can be fairly unreliable and superficial, with notable exceptions. You might consider developing a PN portfolio of between 30 and 50 photos. I'd still submit them for critique, even though the responses will be minimal, especially at first. The method I've found most successful is to get out there and start making constructive comments to people, which can come in the form of critique, suggestions for improvement, honest emotional reactions to a photo without a judgment of good or bad, asking questions of other photographers, etc. Start tracking a few photographers you like and ask them, through PN's instant message service, to look at and discuss the work in your portfolio. It often takes giving to get and even then there are many who give more than they get and many, many more who get much more than they give. But that's the world. As you track photographers in the critique forum, you'll note those who provide substantive comments and you'll probably also recognize those who cover as much territory as possible with a few superfluous words. Keep in mind that any words spoken at least show someone has taken the time to look and bothered to respond, so it's really not a loss to get a "great shot" though it can be less then fulfilling if you're really looking for more. If, for example, you look at some of my own photos, you'll notice several people I've developed relationships here and we try to get into some more insightful back-and-forths. I try to be meaty when I comment on others' work. It's not easy developing a presence on PN, but it can be done. Good luck!</p>

<p>Renee,<br>

For the critiques, much what Fred said. Getting good critiques here can be done, but it requires time. Another option could be a local photoclub, or maybe 1-2 other local photographers who are willing to be open, honest and frank. Good quality feedback is rare - most people want to be polite, and stay nice and hence steer clear of telling you the harder bits and pieces. And quite some who aren't afraid to share the bad, tend to have a brash style that's not constructive. Finding the right people for this isn't easy.</p>

<p>The gear questions: of course, it is not mandatory to spend money ;) More gear isn't necessarily going to get you better photos (and as the happy owner of way too much gear, I can confirm this). But I think you already knew, so down to business.<br>

For the lenses: the choice between full frame and APS-C; first of all the internet-attitude that seems to prescribe full frame if you want to seem serious is fluff. If APS-C works well for you, it's more than fine; the D7000 was and is still a pretty fabulous body. The main reason people tend to have for full frame is better high ISO performance. I don't think that is your main worry for either landscape or portrait. Plus, the D7000 is close to full frame in this respect. But to me, the real big advantages of full frame are: less depth of field at equal aperture and identical framing (=more creative liberty to play with selective focus) and larger viewfinders.<br>

So, how important is shallow depth of field to you? I'm guessing not that much, else the prime would have charmed you more. Which also reduces the importance of a large viewfinder to some extend (as focussing is slightly less critical). So, guessing: a move to full frame isn't a huge advantage. Which also means: get DX lenses if they do what you need. What you buy today should solve the issue you have today - not a possible, maybe, some day thing that may or may not happen in the future. Good lenses do not loose a lot of value - I know I did not loose significant amounts of money selling off DX lenses.<br>

That said, here is a lens to consider: the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8. It is full frame, for most people a bit clumsy range on APS-C, but for portraits, it is actually a pretty ideal range. It's not very large, not expensive and tests consistently well. Keep the 18-105 for landscape work, and you're pretty much set.<br>

The 70-200 f/2.8 lenses are quite awesome tools, but they are seriously large. People may feel intimidated by one, and it is straining your muscles a lot more too. Yes, great tool to have, but check before you buy into it. A small prime as a 85 f/1.8G can simply make sense because it's so much smaller and lighter. For me, on Nikon (DX and FX), a favourite portrait lens is the old manual focus 105mm f/2.5 - small, light, cheap and it renders portraits just beautifully. But on APS-C, it's a tad long (and hence also the reason why I think a 70-200 is not the must-have lens; the Sigma 50-150 or Tokina 50-135 f/2.8 lenses if you want a zoom already will do).</p>

<p>Tne most important thing, without a doubt, is light. The <a href="http://strobist.blogspot.it/2006/03/lighting-101.html">Strobist lighting 101 tutorial</a> is very useful; I also found <a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/">this blog</a> most useful. The basic guide on the Nikon CLS provided with the flash is a place to get started; the advantage of the CLS system is that you can experiment fairly easy. Sooner or later (better sooner) you probably want to have a look at a more complete lighting system for the portraits, though. CLS may help you get an idea of how things work and which lighting setups work and which don't, but at some point it'll run out of steam.<br>

Lightroom: if you're fine with Photoshop, you do not need it. If you find a need for a more work-flow tool, with batch operations, Lightroom beats Photoshop for that. It isn't the only option, by the way. Personally, I favour CaptureOne and I think it's worth trying before deciding.<br>

Monitor: yes, getting a better monitor is money very well spent, even if you do not print at home. The Acer you have is decent at best; any monitor with a quality IPS-panel would already be a big step up. Plus calibration hardware (Spyder, X-Rite etc.) - maybe even put that first as it may squeeze quite a bit more quality already from the monitor you have now.</p>

<p>Thank you all for taking time for me. Yes, there is a somewhat local club - whose once monthly meetings I seem to remember about the next day - such as the one last night! I will get the book, I will make my portfolio here and start participating in the critique forum, and I will look into the items Wouter suggested.</p>

<p>I also do need to give my 35/1.8 another chance. I do want to start learning working with shallow DoF, which is the reason for the fast zoom - since I already know I favor a zoom over a prime, it seems good for me to combine the two! I appreciate the lens suggestion - that seems like the perfect range for me. I do see myself succumbing to the full-frame desire at some point just because I won't be able to help myself. But I neither have the funds or the need at this time, and the funds I do have I want to spend on the need I do have right now. </p>

<p>Thanks again. Feel free to keep any other suggestions coming, and if you get a chance, take a gander at today's Nikon Wed thread-my most recent work is there.</p>

<p>Renee</p>

<p>I can't speak to topic 1 (critiques), but on topic 2 (gear and training), here are my opinions.</p>

<p><strong>Training</strong></p>

<p>I commend you for taking classes locally. Classroom experience will help you to build skills and should also help you to sort out your equipment questions.</p>

<p>Further, if you are interested in portrait or landscape photography, look on you tube or around the web for free tutorials focusing on that type of shooting. Some of them will be better than others, but you'll gain a lot of ideas as you do your research.</p>

<p>But keeping mind that most important thing is to put that knowledge to use. Try applying the techniques that you lear, even if you don't feel that you know what you're doing. The worst thing that can happen is that you'll create some bad photos. The best thing that can happen is that you create thousands of bad photos, because you're going to learn from each mistake.<br>

Adopt the mindset of figuring things out rather than asking for guidance in advance. Try things first. If they don't work out, try to determine why. If you still can't figure it out, then ask your questions. You'll be in a better position to apply the advice that you receive if you have already confronted a problem and pondered a resolution. If you just ask "what gear do I need to become a portrait photographer," you won't understand why the gear that's recommended is important. Take some portraits of your friends, and then ask how to improve them. You'll learn more effectively and more quickly.</p>

<p><strong>Gear</strong></p>

<p>Overarching concept: You don't need something until you can demonstrate why you need it.</p>

<p>Why do you need a new monitor? Maybe you'd be better off calibrating the one that you have with a Spyder or similar tool.</p>

<p>Why do you need a reflector? Maybe you'd be better off figuring out how to make portrait subjects look good in available light (open shade, overcast, direct sunlight, window light, dusk) and with your speed light. Add options and modifiers later when you understand what they can add to your lighting palette.</p>

<p>Why do you need a faster zoom? What benefit will that give you?</p>

<p>Do you need Lightroom? I love the program, but perhaps since you already have Photoshop and you're taking a class in Photoshop, you should learn that program thoroughly before you buy more software.</p>

<p>How can you get better results with the gear that you already have? How about learning to use that speed light off camera before you invest in light modifiers? Learn how to bounce it in different ways. Learn how to use different sync speeds (including high speed, i.e. faster than 1/250th of a second) and how they are useful. Learn how to use the different modes (normal, slow sync, rear curtain sync). Learn how to use your flash in manual mode in addition to TTL mode. Learn how to use the flash's zoom and multiple flash features.</p>

<p>Do you need umbrellas and soft boxes and beauty dishes? These things are all useful, but until you understand what each one is going to do for you, you don't "need" them, even if they seem like useful tools to own.</p>

<p>Shoot a lot and let your results guide your inquiries.</p>

Regarding reflectors, for children or head-and-shoulders portraits, a white foamcore board works great, and I use them all the time. For

couples or multiples, one of the five-in-one reflectors is wonderful, especially since you also have a diffusion panel in those. Either works

great to bounce light from an off camera flash. And in that regard, an off camera flash/umbrella/reflector combo is a great way to start with

lighting.

In regards to lenses, the 70-200 2.8 is a heavy lens, and the crop factor on your camera may make it too long for portrait work. A 50 or

85, IMO, would be better. What is it about the 35 1.8 that you don't like?

As for monitor calibration, I don't know how old your monitor is, but the calibration tools out there won't work well on aging monitors,

which I found out when I called one of the companies regarding the old one I have, so that's something to look into.

There are some good online classes, and lots of free stuff out there for learning. Keep doing what you're doing, follow the fantastic advice

that people have given you here, and have fun! And I agree with you about the wonderful people on these forums, who have also helped

me in many ways over the years.

<p>I have very similar equipment to you, and a similar passion for portrait photography.</p>

<p>I've been learning and improving (in fits and starts) since the early 1990s. It took me decades to realise that I didn't really understand light. In particular, how the light falling on the subject and background affects the final image, and how to adjust/control the light to get the desired effect. Once I'd got it, that scary flash gun become an incredibly useful tool.</p>

<p>I second Wouter's recommendation to spend time on the Strobist and Tangents web sites. If you prefer books, Neil van Niekerk who writes the Tangents blog has a series of books which really helped me. I'd recommend his latest book "<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Direction-Quality-Light-Neil-Niekerk/dp/1608955702/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414236300&sr=8-1&keywords=direction+and+quality+of+light">Direction & Quality of Light</a>" as a good starting place.</p>

<p>On the kit side, I find I prefer the results from my prime lenses. My first choice is usually the 85mm f/1.8G which I would recommend without hesitation, but I sometimes use the 35mm f/1.8G for full length/environmental portraits. For events, walking around, groups and moving subjects I have recently acquired the very reasonably priced Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 (the non-VC version). The fixed aperture helps with flash photography and the image quality is a noticable step up from my kit lens. </p>

<p>I do lust after FX, but I have decided that the gain in performance isn't worth the additional size and weight, not to mention the cost. I have three children and other hobbies to support. I don't think I'll be able to afford a full system with two FX bodies and f/2.8 lens set in the near future. </p>

<p>Best of luck. Hope this helps a little.</p>

<p>Chris</p>

<p>Thank you all so much for sharing your insights and encouragement. I've come to realize that if I could buy anything I wanted for my photography, the item at the top of the list would be TIME. So I'm going to start taking more time making pictures with the equipment I have, and posting/expanding my galleries here, and asking questions, and tackling the scary lighting beast. I did get the Tamron lens Wouter suggested so I'm going to spend some time with it this weekend.</p>

<p >“I don't post much in the way of either work or words” <em>I think you should, that is the purpose of PN. You share some, and you take some.</em></p>

<p > </p>

<p >“I would like to start getting feedback on my work but I'm unsure about how to do it” <em>Here you need to be careful. The feedback you will get on PN in my experience so far will be limited. </em></p>

<p > </p>

<p >“I know there is a critique forum, but for some reason I get the impression that it's a happenstance thing - your image goes into a rotation, and maybe someone will see it, but maybe not. And, it seems that many of the comments I have seen on others' images in that forum are not as constructive as I would want for mine. It's nice to get a lot of "nice work" and "pretty colors" comments, don't get me wrong. Perhaps I am not understanding that forum? Or not looking in the right place? Please, point me in the right direction” You are correct. The critique forum is not much of a help” -</p>

<p ><em>You need to understand who </em><em>is</em><em> on PN. A mixed bag of some pros, semi-pros, hobbyists, devoted hobbyists and also some people who just like to look at photos, </em><em>and simply </em><em>seek advice on technical matters etc. Some of these use</em><em>r</em><em>s do not have or do not want to show any of their work here </em><em>on PN</em><em>, but they are enjoying </em><em>very much</em><em>, </em><em>so it seems, </em><em>rating other people's work. You will need to gain your confidence in yourself and your work elsewhere. Read books, find out why you photograph? Where you want to take photography? </em><em>As to the comments users leave which you have identified as non constructive, this is somewhat correct. Maybe they wouldn't want to offend you, maybe they fear repercussions, the bottom line is, if you seek finding out the established rules of superior photography, I'm afraid you need to look elsewhere. At the core lies a formal education IMHO.</em></p>

<p > </p>

<p >“Please, point me in the right direction. Is there a better, more sure-fire, appropriate place for help with images?” -</p>

<p ><em>Yes there is but not on PN. </em><em>It is your own confidence acquired with your own sweat by studying, looking at images and asking yourself why YOU think they are good and how they could be perhaps improved technically and so on....I hope this reality is not to harsh. It is only my personal opinion. </em></p>

<p > </p>

<p >“Is it appropriate to post a "how could this be better" thread on a single image in the beginner forum?</p>

<p >Or the portrait or nature forums, if applicable? I don't want to do the wrong thing.”-</p>

<p ><em>I don't think so. After you go through some formal education, </em><em>gain confidence, experience with results and establish your style of photography, you can validate on PN. Not the other way around.</em></p>

 

<p>The most important thing is to share your good work -</p>

<p>A couple of comments for you to consider:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>“I would like to start getting feedback on my work but I'm unsure about how to do it. I know there is a critique forum, but for some reason I get the impression that it's a happenstance thing - your image goes into a rotation, and maybe someone will see it, but maybe not. And, it seems that many of the comments I have seen on others' images in that forum are not as constructive as I would want for mine.”</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Maybe.<br>

But on the other hand you are getting a total zero comments on photos that you do not share.<br>

Sharing your Photographs is not a concept that is limited to a critique forum or limited to sharing with other photographers at a camera club.<br>

One of the best questions I have found to ask of people with whom I share my work, is "Why?"<br>

. . . why do you like it . . why don't you like it . . . why is it 'nice' . . . why do you think that . . . </p>

<p>*</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>“I've come to realize that if I could buy anything I wanted for my photography, the item at the top of the list would be TIME. So I'm going to start taking more time making pictures with the equipment I have, and posting/expanding my galleries here, and asking questions, and tackling the scary lighting beast.”</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Excellent idea.<br>

I’d suggest that you have a plan. Give yourself a topic and a goal and a timeline for completion. It’s all very good to allocate more time to your photography, but a lot oif time will be wasted if one is just spinning wheels.</p>

<p>WW</p>

as portraits are your objective, find or make yourself a practice dummy head, the kind of styrofoam heads

they use in stores. If you can't find an actual pre-made head, use a styrofoam ball and glue some rough

shape eyes lips nose and ears on it. The thing doesn't have to be perfect, nobody's real head is and they're

also all different anyway. What it will give you, instead of wearing out your friends (especially while you are

producing the poor images initially, they don't want to see poor photos of themselves) is Practice - the amount

of practice - it takes to become proficient in setting up lighting quickly and efficiently, is large. Many, many

hours. The styro dummy head will be totally patient while you practice, while you test setting a light a foot

away, then three feet away, at a 30 degree angle, then a 35 degree angle, and while you practice and test

setting the subject-head four feet in front of a background and then 6 feet in front of it.

 

You study, by studying, by observing while others do it - and right now, as someone has mentioned, there;s

lots of "bad" examples of things on you tube....but there are also some really really good ones. And watching

someone do it on you tube, beats the pants off looking at diagrams in a book. However, that is, as I say, how

you "study". You Learn, only by doing. You learn, only when it is your own mind and hands and eyes doing

the doing. Your eyes and hands and mind will learn what doesn't work, by doing what doesn't work. And they

will learn what does work, only by physically doing what does. You learn how to set up butterfly lighting, only

by physically actively, personally setting up butterfly lighting. You learn how to effectively use a "hat" as a prop

to push light in and open up the eyes, only by putting one on a head and playing with it.

 

And then you do it over, and over, and over, and over, until you can do it blindfolded.

 

And the styro dummy won't get bored when you start practicing at 0800 and you're still practicing at 2300. It'll

be the best portrait learning-tool you'll ever own.

incidentally, i should add, in that i made the statement your practice head doesn't need to be perfect, that there

are a couple of things about it which will be important: make a couple of noses you can interchange, one

"prominent", one not so. And pay attention to the bone structure around the eyes, don't just draw eyes on it,

make sure you set the eyes back in, as they are on real head, so the eye-brow area casts a definite shadow

into the eye area when lit from above ie as sun would be at noon. That's how you'll practice and learn how to

control light to open up the eyes. And I;ll toss in a little "tidbit tip" for you to play with....make one eye smaller

than the other. The majority of people have one eye smaller than the other......and professional portrait

photographers know what to do with that when posing people. I'm not going to tell you what that is, that's

something you'll learn, or figure out.

<p>More good suggestions! It's overwhelming, especially as robert puts it. I'm going to get one of those heads they use in cosmetology school and just take it one thing at a time.</p>