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I take photos at boxing events & looking for a new camra


emil_kegebein

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Hi Emil,

 

Believe it or not, you can get decent results with a Nikon D70 and a 501.8 lens. I shot an

entire match with that combination. I would shoot for a 50 1.8, 28=70 2.8 and a 70-200

2.8. You should be fine with the 28-70 2.8 Nikon lens. I shot Hasim Rahman in

November with a Nikon D200 and a 28-70 2.8. Versus networks televised the fight so the

lighting was decent. With an HBO or Showtime you MIGHT be able to get away with ISO at

1000, but generally speaking your readings will be ISO: 1600, Aperture: 2.8, Shutter

Speed: 500 or better.

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One more thing. In your bigger fights, flash is a no-no. You may be promptly escorted from

ringside by security. I've talked to some other sports photogs and they insist that the D3 is

state of the art with noise even at 2000. The D300 isn't bad at all. I'd be happy to share a

few with you.

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I shoot boxing professionally. Everyone shoots with similar equipment, either a Canon 1DMk3 or 40D, or both. I use a 10D for backup for a 1DMk3. The reaso the Mk3 is so common is that fast autofocus and high ISO are critical. Lenses are the 24-70/2.8 and 70-200/2.8. The 70-200 is more useful for cage fights where there is sometimes a walkway around the cage. At least in California, sanctioned fights cannot be shot with flash. I've never used flash.
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Hi

In the U.K we can use flash . I have done fights in the u.s and the light was very good. More important to a good boxing picture is the timing . The best way to get information is to ask the photographs at ringside what works for them . I use 2x Canon eos 1d Mark2n 16to 35 f2.8 and a 70 to 200 2.8 .Hope this is of some help. Marc

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It used to be OK to use flash in the US, based on some of the published photos of Ali's fights, but at some point, they must have decided that it affected the fighters' ability to see. The problem may be that there are often a lot of people with cameras near the ring, and someone could intentionally fire a flash directly into someone's eyes when they are close.
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If you are already getting 1/160 shutter speed with ISO 400, you can get 640 using IOS 1600 but with the H2, noise is a real issue.

 

Using flash is a no no thus you need to use a DSLR for cleaner images and less shutter lag etc, fast SLR lens & high ISO in order to freeze motion while shooting in a typical sports indoor lighting.

 

Remember, the closer you are to the subject such as boxing, the higher shutter speed is required. I'm always at ISO 1600 or 3200 for the action shots and 400 or 800 for non action shots like presentation or at their corner.

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I shoot boxing and MMA for the worlds biggest internet boxing website. I still use D2h nikons and use from 800-1250 ISO and adjust my cameras Kelvin setting at about 3200-3400. No flash permitted. I use a 17-55mm F2.8 and 85mm f1.8 nikon lenses. You can get D200 which is but it sucks memory cards compared to the D2h and most shots are no more than 100kb in size for web work and I have had a few magazines use my JPGS ( average 2mb size images)....You can pick up a nice D2h for $1000 or less and use the extra money for fast glass like a 17-55mm f2.8 or 24-70mm f2.8....I used to bring a 70-200mmm VR lens but rarely used it.....the 85mm fits bill for close ups the call since its fast and light and still tight enought to get close ups.I usually shoot at f2-f2.8 and at 1/320-1/400 shutter speed.And you get 8 fps.....but the best shots are selective single fire shots. I shoot a 5-6 bout fight and shoot like 2000 images. On a D2h, that about two 2gb memory cards at JPG FINE LARGE. I don't got time to shoot NEF/RAW since I am on a 6 hr deadline most times and have to send 40-50 of my best shots....large files are not needed.
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