brandon_andreadakis Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 <p>Hello, <br> First of all, I hope that I am posting to the right place on the forum. This seemed the most fitting. I would like to try and take some long exposure night shots. Unfortunately, the D90 has a max exposure time of 30 seconds. I was looking at the Nikon wired remote release that allows a timer to be used, but that is not compatible with the D90. Does anyone know of anything that would work? Thanks!<br> P.S. I would ideally like it to be compatible with the D7000 as well since I plan on upgrading in the near future. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francisco_disilvestro Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 <p>You can use the wireless remote control Nikon ML-L3, which is not expensive</p> <p>Set the camera to M (manual) and set shutter speed to "- -"</p> <p>When you press the button on the ML-L3, the shutter opens ant it will close when you press the ML-L3 button again, up to a maximum of 30 minutes.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samuel_lipoff Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 <p>Can't you take long exposures without any accessories, just by setting the camera to bulb exposure mode? </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsands Posted May 2, 2011 Share Posted May 2, 2011 <p>Can also use the wired remote MC-DC2. Press the button and hold (for as long as you want), or press the button and slide it to lock it open. You can remove your finger and leave shutter open until you slide the button back to unlock. Quite inexpensive, usually under $25 USD.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon_andreadakis Posted May 2, 2011 Author Share Posted May 2, 2011 <p>Francisco, <br> I'll have to try that tomorrow as I have a ML-L3. If that works, that would be awesome. It's a shame I can't time it precisely that way...but oh well. <br> Samuel, <br> Yes...technically. However, you would have to keep your finger on the shutter button. For these types of shots, exposure is in the minutes, so every little vibration, touch, breath, etc. affects the image. <br> Rick, <br> That would work. I hadn't heard of the MC-DC2. It still doesn't have a timer but if Francisco's idea doesn't work it may be my only other option.</p> <p>Just found what I was looking for as I was typing this...lol Here is what it is in case you guys are interested: http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Timer-Remote-Control-Nikon/dp/B001QSG4R8</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_ Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <p>...and, if you have long-exposure noise reduction turned on, be prepared for the camera to take the same time as the original exposure to complete the noise reduction function. i.e., a 5 minute exposure, will need 5 minutes of noise reduction time.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossb Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <p>Just use bulb and hold the shutter down with your finger. You can count out the time with that computer that runs on pancakes and coffee.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisnielsen Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <p>I got a wired remote for $10 off ebay. Works great!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_in_PA Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <p>ML L3 is a great device to have for a lot of things!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardsnow Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <p>If you don't have an ML-L3 then you're missing out. It's as inexpensive as a cable release, ($15USD), and can be used from about 15 feet away (in front of the camera) on most consumer DSLRs.<br> RS</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francisco_disilvestro Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <blockquote> <p>It's a shame I can't time it precisely that way...but oh well.</p> </blockquote> <p>You don´t have to worry about that. An error of 20 seconds in a 1 minute exposure is 1/3 stop, the same as 3.3 minutes error in a 10 minute exposure. Using any clock (with seconds measurement) you´ll be in a precision of less than 1/10 stop.</p> <p>You´ll have more issues with long exposure noise</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joseph_wisniewski Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 <p>Rubber band and a little rolled up wad of gaffer's tape. Works every time.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_cook Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 <p>Further to Francisco's post, if your exposures are measured in minutes, you don't have to worry about movement. In fact, you can walk through the frame and you'll never show up.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now