How Should I Start?

I'm an architecture student and I find photography a really nice way to improve my works. I think I really have

the passion for it. I really want to learn. Currently, I have a Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, the one I used for photo

journalism when I was in the fifth grade, isn't it an obsolete piece? Do I really have to buy a new one? If yes,

what camera would you suggest? Digital or Film? And please share some words of wisdom on how I should start.

Thank you.

Kenneth, I don't know much about your camera, but I am writing this after Google search your camera. It is an

manual SLR camera which supports Yashika lenses. If it is working nicely end you are getting results from it,

than no need to throw it out. It is a very nice camera. We don't get much result variations while using different

film cameras and if we are using digitals, than results vary brand by brand, model by model. You can also

consider to buy a film scanner so that you don't need to get printed every picture, film scanners are so cheap

nowadays.

 

In my opinion, you don't need to buy any other camera, if you can easily afford and buy films and after using you

can get developed those. If films are not issue for you, than keep using this and master the exposure.

 

Later on (after two or more years) you can think about DSLR because than DSLRs would be technically more sound

and more cheaper.

 

I would also like to know that what lens you have with your camera, because lens produces a better picture not a

camera. Camera body is only a medium which helps to store your captured shot on a film frame or on a digital

sensor, while a lens plays roll to capture a nice shot in terms of resolution and quality. On the other hand,

your skills and knowledge are major part of the final result, so develop your skills.

 

 

I would only suggest one thing about your camera that, now don't invest a big amount in Yahika lenses for your

camera, after sometime when you will be able yourself to judge to find right lens for right situation, tham find

another body (Film or Digital) of any big player like Nikon or Canon, and invest in those lenses, so whenever you

would need to switch one medium to another (Film to digital or digital to film) you won't need to buy more lenses

and you can use those same brand lenses on the different same brand bodies.

Here is a link of one PN member's shot traken by Yashica FX-3 Super 2000:

>> photo.net/photo/4583432&size=lg

 

Here are links of photographs of Mike Liu, Shots taken with Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, have a look, how nice these are

 

>> http://www.pbase.com/chaopo/honey_moon_in_hokkaido

 

Alternate Link : http://images.google.co.in/imgres?imgurl=http://i.pbase.com/u37/chaopo/upload/34820371.002.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.pbase.com/chaopo/image/34820371&h=371&w=560&sz=81&hl=en&start=10&um=1&usg=__pko8bQ7Nirpgd5zg-eqy6XaHxuk=&tbnid=7iBIwy4TsG85jM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=133&prev=/images%3Fq%3DYashica%2BFX-3%2BSuper%2B2000%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26channel%3Ds%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN

You do not have to buy a new camera, but I think the investment in a DSLR will provide a learning tool which provides:

 

1. Almost instant feedback,

 

2. After the initial investment, is almost costless

 

These two points IMO would be attractive to a student and a would suit student`s position

 

I do not think DSLRs are expensive, and I think they are quite technically advanced. A good consumer model can produce quite reasonable quality 11 x 14 at 1600 ISO, using the kit, zoom lens. But I do understand my budget is not necessarily a student`s budget.

 

In regard to a budget: investing in a quality scanner, when on a budget, and if the end goal is to buy a DSLR, is IMO counterproductive: it would be better to allocate the money to the primary goal.

 

***

 

There is a lot to be said for learning on a Film Camera, especially if you are developing it yourself and / or you wish to continue with B&W. Film also has greater latitudes than digital. The two mediums can exist side by side, quite happily. I use 645 film cameras for a portion of my Wedding Work.

 

There are still (where I live) Photography courses which have film, and wet work (darkroom developing) as a compulsory part of the course, and I am an advocate of this approach: but it is a PORTION of the course.

 

It is undeniable that DSLRs and computer Post Production are now the primary learning tools in Photography and related media courses: I also think, both a DSLR and a Computer, would be a far more suitable and flexible learning aid for an Architecture Student, also: in this regard I am a little puzzled that a DSLR is not a prerequisite for your course.

 

***

 

In regard as to what to get, I think you need to take a blank sheet of paper and carefully list exactly what you think you want to do with your camera.

 

And also you need to look at a budget.

 

Armed with these goals and parameters, I think a second question would be appropriate for more detailed suggestions as to what you should consider for purchase.

 

WW

Film is still a great way to shoot architecture--better than ever, in fact, when combined with digital post processing tools.

 

One thing going for you whether you start out with film or digital, is the ability to correct perspective distortion in you images. This is quite important with architectural photography and, in the days before digital imaging, required special cameras and/or lenses.

 

Today, you can use a number of programs (Photoshop, GIMP, etc.) to make perspective corrections. If you shoot film, you'll need your negatives scanned, of course, but after scanning your workflow and methods will be the same as digital.

 

You can also use bracketed film exposures (or scans), together with the high dynamic range of film to manage the tonal scale of your images, bringing out shadow detail and controlling highlights. Research HDR techniques, and remember, a little HDR goes a very long way.

 

I used to shoot a bit of architectural work in pre-digital days--just thinking about some of these digital techniques makes me want to get back into it.

Pankaj, very nice of you for the answer and links. By the way, I have a Yashica 35-70mm and a Soligor 70-250mm lens. How can I do best out of them?

 

William, that's very much appreciated. I'm actually considering a DSLR, but maybe I'll stick with what I have for a while. What accessories should I secure first? All I have is a tripod for my camera. Photography isn't actually a prerequisite in my course, I simply find happiness in photographs. :)

 

David, that was really helpful. I'm wondering what perspective distortions are, and what special cameras may correct them. By the way, I enjoyed viewing your works. Great. I only hope folks would also trust me to photograph their weddings someday. :)

> What accessories should I secure first? <

 

Well, as I see it with the film gear you have, you are short of three things, which might be useful for you:

 

1. A wide angle: 35mm is not that wide, especially if you are shooting indoors and architecture.

 

2. A fast lens: necessary if you want to capture a low light scene, hand held, for example. And I think a fast slightly wider lens might be useful for you, like a 35mm prime, for example.

 

3. A cable release: for good tripod technique.

 

(4.) Perhaps a Flash unit.

 

WW

Kenneth, you have almost every required focal length coverage with your lenses except true wide angel as William

also pointed. I would not highly recommend you the fast prime lenses (Big apertures between f/1.4 to f/2.8) as

maximum of those are very expensive. But I know that 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor for Nikons and same specified made by

canon is for canons are cheapest prime lenses but not for wide angle architectural interiors. These can be used

in interiors or at evening with some light with ISO 400 at handhold camera.

 

William pointed nicely on a cable release, tripod usage and flash.

 

You should decide yourself that If your 35-70 is covering the wide angles you need or not covering. If not

covering than you can find a used lens for your camera which can cover 24mm or at least 28.

 

One more thing here about the lenses is that, when we use a 24mm or 28mm focal lengths on our 35mm film cameras

or on FX/Full Frame DSLR cameras, than these lenghts are considered as reasonable wide angles, but when we use

these lengths on APS sensor DSLRs like Nikon D70, D80, D90, D300 or Canon 40D, 350D, than these are not wide

angles due to 1.6x crop factor where picture gets croped by 1.6 or as the crop size of the sensor.

 

So if you consider the DSLR, than don't go for APS sized sensors, as those are so cheaper nowadays. Because as

you will do most of the architectural work so you would need more wider angles. APS sensor cameras are still very

useful if we usually need to use larger focal lengths, like for birdings, wildlife etc. In these conditions, we

get 450mm Focal Length with a 300mm lens.

 

But FX or Full Frame cameras are so expansive today, so I would suggest you to wait.

 

Now you only need a film scanner if you don't have. That would make a big difference. You will learn a lot if you

can get a good scanner. If you don't need to print bigger than 8X12 or 11X14 than you can consider a flatbed like

Canon 4800f or Epson V750, V500 or V350. If you want to get everything from your negatives, than you can consider

Nikon Dedicated Scanners. A few of them are cheaper now, and you can also find some used Minolta scanners.

 

After getting a scanner, you can also learn the digital editing and processing and can represent images as you want.

 

I don't think that a reasonable scanner would affect highly your pocket, but if so than you can get scanned your

films at labs for some time and later on you can buy your own.

http://www.f-stop.com/p-c.htm

To answer your question...

 

Perspective distortion is the appearance of lines converging as they become farther away. We see it all the time,

but since our vision isn't bounded by a rectangular frame, the mind compensates and it's largely unnoticed. In a

photograph, even a slightly non-parallel alignment of camera to scene can reveal this effect. It is very often

encountered in architectural photography, but I sometimes have to deal with it in environmental portraiture, too.

 

The cameras and lenses used to overcome this effect in photographs modify the relationship between camera and

scene by tilting the plane of the lens with respect to the scene and the camera's focal plane (film or sensor).

These are generally some pretty expensive tools. The good news is that these simple geometric transforms are

easily performed with programs like Photoshop and DxO. Some of these programs can also correct lens distortions

for a wide range of professional and consumer lenses, as well. You can do a LOT of very good architectural

photography before you buy your first tilt/shift lens.

 

Architecture is an excellent subject for developing your photographic skills, and looking graphically at

architecture may also influence your design approach. If it isn't already a component of your architectural

education, you might consider taking a class or two in graphic and/or industrial design--great foundation courses

for both architecture and photography.

 

BTW, thanks for the kind words on my work... always appreciated.

Took me a while to completely absorb everything, those were super enlightening. Thanks! Best regards... :)

Just on the point of what to consider for the existing film kit:

 

Looking in the second hand markets at the Yashica ML series a 24mm/F2.8 or 28mm/F2.8 could be found quite

cheaply, I think.

 

There are also third party manual prime lenses, such as Tamron CW-24 (24mm/F2.5) is one comes to my mind.

 

Certainly the Carl Zeiss T series would be expensive, by comparison, however that range of lenses was not in my

thinking, when I suggested a fast prime.

 

***

 

To be quite clear: my opinion is that the majority of any money should be allocated to the acquisition of a digital kit,

if

photography is to be seriously pursued.

 

If it were me, I would only allocate very limited amounts of money to extending the film kit, and I would be a very

keen shopper, looking, maybe at one or maybe two Prime Lenses.

 

I look at the big picture this way:

 

Likely, for the cost of a good quality film scanner, I could buy a second hand EOS400D and the IS, kit lens.

 

That gives 18mm at F3.5; IS; and a sensor cleaner (18mm on a 400D is about equivalent to a 28mm lens on the film

gear). Add a 4Gb card and basically after those expenses, the photography is free of cost.

 

But, we all have different ways of looking at things. If I wanted to extend any film desire, with an architectural bent, I

would buy a good medium format film body, and a couple of prime lenses: they are going for a song, nowadays.

 

***

 

``Architecture is an excellent subject for developing your photographic skills . . . consider taking a class or two in

graphic and/or industrial design--great foundation courses for both architecture and photography.``

 

I agree. I was surprised that a DSLR was not a required tool, for the Architecture Course.

 

WW

I guess using that camera is ok, but if you want to but another one you may try a analogue nikon, they are cheap and useful. To learn some things about photography you may search for a photography book in any library, but here are some advices for architecture photograph:

For taking pictures of modern buildings it's better to have them at mid day when the light is stronger and you can make reflections in the crystals of the building. For old buildings and I mean OLD you may take the pictures at sunrise or sunset.

Also try to get the pictures from the place that better represents the "personality" of the building so it is more informative and interesting, just like with people! Luck and hope this helps you.

 

Noel

Here is the Link of Theo Jacobs, Architectural shots taken with film :

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=131342

 

You can learn a lot how to use shadows, angles and focal lengths.

Ya! Photography is really an interesting hobby for students. You can add your own creativity to your pictures and you can keep the memories for longer time using your photos. I have used learndigitalphotographynow.com, the site which gave me online free guide with simple tricks and tips in taking photographs using digital cameras. This helps in using any kind of digital camera. I recommend you to visit this once and start taking nice snaps. All the best!!