viktor_karel Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 <p>Hey, i am moving to 6x7 from psix tl and consider buying rb67 but in my country it is hard to find one.<br>However i found one RB67 with 65mm f 4.5 and 90mm f 3.8 (the oldest versions /single coated /) with two backs ( one is pro s back)<br><strong>is it worth 300eur(337usd)</strong> if it will be in working condition all? ( the leather cover is in poor state but otherwise it is supposed to be ok in terms of function, i will chceck it tomorrow) it is urgent as the owner neither do i have much time and id like to buy asap.</p><p>thanks</p><p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member69643 Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 <p>Quick advice - the RB67 is a complicated beast. The price is fair, but be aware that you may discover problems down the road that won't initially be evident. Even without actual problems be ready to make lots of mistakes learning to use the camera. Often times it's hard, for a new user, to tell whether the camera is truly at fault or if you yourself made some error.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yockenwaithe Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 <p>I would definitely get it, if it truly is in good working condition and with the lenses it's worth quite a bit more than 300eur</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor_karel Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 <p>okay thanks guys, i was told by someone elese without explanation is should get pro s or pro sd while this is the original....any idea why he told me that?</p> <p>and any suggestions what for and how should i chceck the rb67 tomorrow?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor_karel Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 <p>now i got an offer for rb67 pro s, wlf, 90mm f3.8 (original) 2 backs 6x7, lens hood and a box for the camera for 332eur. is it worth the pro s body sacrifising the 65mm lens and 32 more eur? <br> anyway its above my buget i wanted to fit under 300eur so i need to consider it really good.</p> <p>thx for replies in advance :)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 be sure to tell the seller in writing as part of the deal, if its not working or the lenses are fungus eatten, it will be returned asap for a full refund! make sure the lenses fire at all speeds by looking through the open back, not just y sound. also before getting the camera... read the user manual very carefully... especially about mounting lenses n the safety interlocks. get the manual for a small donation from butkus... google it. butkus rb67. as for the price on the rb vs the pro-s.... yes the newer pro-s should cost a bit more. both cameras do the same thing but the pro-s has double exposure prevention n a coulple other safety interlocks you really dont need but are nice to have. The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirk_strauchler Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 <p>I agree that the Pro-S should cost more, but the cost of 32 euro and the 65mm is quite a bit more (about $200 USD total). I'd personally go for the Pro with 2 lenses. You just need to learn the interlocks, otherwise it'll cost you more in film.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor_karel Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 <p>so i got it with agreement that i will test it properly this weekend and if anything goes wronng i will get refund. both back are 220 does it make any problem for 120 film?<br> also he offered 3rd back for 15eur is it good price?</p> <p>thx</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 You can use 120 in a 220 back but dont advance to the start arrow... just start it at the very beginning of the leader. Also be sure to stop at 10 exposures n advance the roll to the end.. 220 gets more frames per roll. Did you get the manual? Its very important to read it n understand how this camera works.. its not your usual routine. here is the manual PDF...... https://lreccametern.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/mamiya-rb67-manual-butkus.pdf READ IT! IF the camera doesnt seem to work or feels jammed.... DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING ON THIS CAMERA! DONT FORCE THE LEVER AT ALL if it stops.. just stop what you are doing n read the manual or email the seller or me ASAP! The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor_karel Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 <p>didnt get that about 120roll in 220 back...what did you mean? that i should inser film and start shooting straight away?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 when loading the roll... usually you wind the leader to the start arrow aligns with the red dot. with 220, you need to start winding the leader on but dont advance to the red dot n arrow.. instead start at the very begining of the leader on the take up spool n close the door n advance to frame 1. if you start at the arrow n dot you will lose 2 frames. also dont be alarmed the frame spacing is off... thats because 220 has no backing paper so the diameter of the roll is off n will not compensate for the difference. get a proper 120 back for your camera.... it just makes life easier. The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor_karel Posted June 15, 2016 Author Share Posted June 15, 2016 <p>thanks, it looks fine so far just one more thing, on 65mm lens i can unscrew from part of lens, on 90mm i can not, is it supposed to be like that or is it somehow jammed on the 90mm thanks</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted June 15, 2016 Share Posted June 15, 2016 do you mean the front cell, the cone, of the 65mm can be unscrewed? just tighten it on if thats what you're refering to. The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor_karel Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 <p>zes the front cell , i was just wondering if it should be also like that on 90mm lens, if the front cone of 90mm should be able to unscrew or no</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul ron Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 the cone on older 90mm was the front cell, same as your 65. but later models changed so the cell was inside the cone. you removed the beauty ring then unscrew the cell, then the cone comes off. The more you say, the less people listen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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