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How come my Super Ikonta B only has 11 frames on the counter?


ward

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<p>Any ideas? I know film stock was thicker back then, but didn't other cameras of the era get 12 shots on a roll of 120?</p>

<p>BTW, I found a sweet Super Ikonta B at a local shop (Blue Moon in Portland, OR). Tessar 2.8, Compur Rapid. Beautiful condition but the focus is quite stiff. I haven't decided whether or not to get it cleaned out and re-lubed. The fellow at Blue Moon advised that it is so clean he would not risk a CLA, but the fellow out here with Ikonta cred says there is no risk. I worry that using it with crud in the gears could damage it and that a botched CLA could damage it too. Any thoughts?</p>

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<p>The advance mechanism in the Super Ikonta B cameras is very reliable, at least after a real good cleaning. One failing, on this early camera, was the frame spacing (which could be considered to be a little crude). To make up for some irregular spacing the engineers took away one frame.<br>

The BX, is a similar camera but I believe it will give 12 frames. I'm not sure if all BX cameras will give 12 frames or just certain vintages. (Someone will know I'm sure)<br>

The cameras are really fantastic users. I'd heartily suggest having the thing CLA'd by someone really good and using it.<br>

Best of luck with this really great camera.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>You're actually better off with only 11 frames. The BX (which I have) gets 12 frames, as does the Super Ikonta III and IV. However, the space between frames is so narrow that sometimes frames may actually overlap. Those of us who have these cameras have to apply strips of electrical tape to the spindle of the takeup spool in order to increase the winding diameter, as well as play tricks such as to bring the "start" mark on the film backing to the roller on the takeup side instead of the arrows as they were meant to be.</p>

<p>The Super Ikonta B's more generous spacing in between frames guarantees that you don't overlap frames.</p>

<p>In spite of its outward beauty, the camera is still >50 years old. Usually the slow speeds become extra slow due to hardening of lubricants in the shutter (as well as dust and grit). Trying to use it in that state will insure poorly exposed images, as well as increased wear on your camera.</p>

<p>All of my Zeiss gear is awaiting overhaul by Henry Scherer, who painstakingly removes everything, down to the last screw, cleans and lubes as required, and reassembles and adjusts as he does so. He takes the leather off, removes the corrosion responsible for "Zeiss bumps" and seals the metal to prevent a recurrence. Then he cleans and conditions the leather before reapplying it. This is time consuming work, so he has a LONG waiting list of clients. I've been waiting for a year and a half, and I'm still at about number 37 on the list.</p>

<p>When properly adjusted, these cameras are capable of astounding results. They are well worth restoring.</p>

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<p>I've pondered this same question. Seems like we are not alone. I've tried to fudge the last frame and tickle the first frame<br>

a bit to try and get 12 exposures. HAven'T found a system that works yet! I've also screwed up mid-roll. I think we need<br>

to accept it as a quirk of this model. My focus is also stiff, and sometiems the slows speed hang. I too cheap to<br>

have it done, but if you think you want to, just find a reputable, repair person. It appears Mr Zeiss Ikon has announced<br>

this model as worthy of his attention and joins the pantheon of great ZI models. There are plenty of qualified techs out there,<br>

you just need to ask around.</p>

<p>Good Luck and Happy shooting!</p>

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