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Horseman VHR modifications and tips


psartman

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I've searched old threads and found there is a small hard-core

group that shares my enthusiasm for this camera. I'd like to hear

about any modifications any of you have done. This camera is a

tinkerer's delight. Here's what I have done over 20+ years:

*Had a custom Polaroid back made that focus at the same plane

as the film backs. It uses the bayonet mount for the revolving

back. (the talented machinist who did this passed away years

ago, please don't ask how to get in touch with him.)

*Made a 4X5 adapter for my 6X12 back that also focuses on the

normal film plane, thus allowing standard hand-holdable

rangefinder focus. It uses the rectangular belows and ground

glass back from the obscure Horseman HF 4X5 body, with a little

digging and grinding in the VHR body.

*Modified the viewfinder with 6X12 frames using silver slide

mounting tape.

*Installed two bubble levels (one for pitch and one for yaw) in the

VHR viewfinder that can be seen via mirrors at the same plane

as the frame line.

*Use a 65mm with full rise and a 45mm with partial rise, thanks

to third party recessed lens boards made by Scott Bonnett

several years ago. (Contact Bob Eskridge, he may still have

some for sale.)

Why hasn't Horseman continued developement and made these

improvements themselves?

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I've contacted Bob Eskridge several times over a period of many months asking if he still has any of those recessed lens boards for sale. Bob promises to get back to me with a definitive answer, but never does. I'd really like to buy one, but can't determine whether it's possible to do so. Bob?!?
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Paul, I'd thought I wouldn't be able to use a 45 mm or 47 mm

with the recessed board. You're talking about the board that's

recessed 7-8 mmm right? I've got one (currently with a 58 mm

on it), but just by looking at the specs of the 45 mm and 47 mm

lenses currently manufactured, I'd thought it would be too

difficult. Did I miscalculate? BTW, my main "modification" is

using 3 different custom designed fresnels from Robert Maxwell.

It turns the camera into a supercharged-Hasselblad when used

with the monoreflex viewer -- really a delight and quick to use -- I

use the VH, not VHR. I also plan on getting a Horseman FA in

the not too distant future to use with a 6 x 12 back, relying on the

same lenses, in the same lens boards. Thanks for any further

info you can give me using the 45 mm and 47 mm lenses.

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Howard, yes the boards I have are recessed 8mm. With the

45mm Apo Grandagon I get infinity focus with the standard just

far enough on the bed to grab securely. The data I have shows

flange to focal distance as 55.5mm for my Rodenstock 45,

59.1mm for the SA47 XL, and 52mm for the old SA 47 f/5.6. Thus,

all but the old 47 should work. You have to raise the front slightly

(to the red index mark) to avoid the bed showing in the frame.

And or course, no verticals unless you mount the camera on it's

side. (I oftern shoot horizontal with the camera side mounted,

using the shift mechanism as a way to get lens fall, not available

any other way.) Ths is shortcoming of the whole Horseman field

camera family, probably a compromise for compactness. On the

FA, etc. you can mount the camera upside down for the same

result (alas, no top tripod screw on the VHR.)

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Howard- My 45 has a 58mm thread ( I see the new ones are

67mm). I tried a 58mm Heliopan Center Filter but it vignetted so I

got rid of it. I don't know if what the outer dimension of the 67mm

Center Filter is, it might work if you screw it on BEFORE

mounting the lensboard. I shoot mostly color neg which is then

scanned for output. I apply a "virtual" center filter compensation

in Photoshop that works nicely.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Howard, could you please detail the reasons why you had 3 different fresnel lenses custom-made by Robert Maxwell?

 

My widest lens is a Rodenstock APO Grandagon N 75mm f/6.8 and when framing verticals through the monoreflex viewer I often observe 'ghost' images caused by the standard fresnel lens near the corners, which by the way are very dark.

 

I've always been wondering if/what I should ask of Maxwell to improve this situation, since calling him from overseas without a clear idea of my needs looks like an expensive proposition (given his reported loquacity).

 

By the way, do you know if he would ship overseas and if he is now reachable via e-mail also?

 

To contribute a bit to the subject, I have had the VH-R for a few months now and like it a lot; my only addition has been writing a program to generate a PDF file with a ruler which, printed on a sticky sheet of paper and 'waterproofed' with adhesive tape, fits perfectly on the bed beside the rail.

 

I use it to accurately focus the camera and determine the optimal f-stop ... works great, is easily replaced when worn out and costs next to nothing.

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  • 4 years later...

Since I use the Bolex H-16 movie tripod for my Horseman VH-R, I made a

block out of hard maple and mounted the Bolex quick release disc to it. I also

put a disc on the bottom of the body. I use the side body position when I want

more extreme movements. I call this the "studio mode", however, it's become

my standard mode! This way I have more lens drop then in the conventional

position.

My VH-R takes the Horseman 65mm f7 lens, with cam, and works well. They

do caution about raising the lens standard to the red dot when shooting in the

vertical mode with the 65!

I started out in the 6X9 format with a Crown Graphic "23". I've kept this camera

and have collected a number of Schneider Linhof lenses for it. If I lower the

bed and place the lens standard on the front of the body rails, my 47mm f8

Schneider Super Angulon focuses at infinity with the bed retracted to the

infinity position.

With this drop-bed set up I have no vingnetting or other problems. That lens is

very sharp!

 

Tom

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