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Gun-Wary Birds


peter_sanders2

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<p>I have said in a previous forum that I have photographed around my house too much. Apparently, I spoke too soon. Recently a family of Pileated Woodpeckers, and a loner, have moved in. I have tried many times to photograph them, but they are very gun-wary. The sound of a door knob turning in the metal rim can, and has scared them away when I tried to photograph them from my porch (it left before I had done anything but turn the handle). When one was on a tree 10 feet from my porch, I scared it with my foot-long lens through the window (but did manage to get some mediocre pictures that would have been better with a ttl meter in the camera. (sometimes it says that every shot should be at 1/4000 of a second, and I must restart the camera, but I was able to guestimate proper exposure of 1/350 of a second.) In short, How can I approach such an easily frightened bird?</p>
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<p>The trick is camouflage and patience. Even a 600mm lens won't get you close enough without stalking skills.</p>

<p>You need something to disguise your appearance and outline. The best device is probably a portable blind like hunters use. You could cobble something up or buy one ready to go from Bass Pro or Cabelas. Just for fun, you might consider a gilly suit and camo makeup. Just don't let the neighbors see you.</p>

<p>Secondly, you need to wait patiently in the blind until the birds return. Birds are pretty smart, and may remember seeing someone enter the blind but not leave. One person recommends having two people enter and one leave a short time later, assuming birds can't count.</p>

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It's pretty rare to photograph every bird that lives near you. I've been laid up healing a broken ankle at my Sister's, and

shooting birds around her house. On the rear patio, she's got a finch feeder & a suet feeder. Grackles, Red-winged

Blackbirds, you name it come by when the patio is empty. Since I've been sitting out there, though, the Downy

Woodpeckers have become accustomed to me and the sound of my Canon. Almost convinced the Goldfinches, but

they're still wary.

 

There are Pileateds, Yellow Warblers, Baltimore Orioles, Scarlet Tanagers, and Kingbirds, but they mostly keep far

away from the feeders.

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Pileated Woodpeckers are very wary and certainly a camera lens at 10 feet will scare them. They have

a large home range. Don't waste your time by try to approach them.

 

I can think of three ways to get photos, and all require extraordinary patience.

 

1. At a nest cavity. Usually difficult to find and I am very much opposed to this method unless the

photographer is an expert in bird behavior. It is not worth the risk of nest abandonment.

 

2. If you live in a large forest you may be able to attract Pileated Woodpeckers to suet hung in trees,

preferably at about 10 feet height. During the winter would be best. And, you will need a blind, either

portable or the house as a blind.

 

3. They occasionally will find a dead tree with likely lots of insects, ants, or whatever and if in the right

state of decay, will rip the hell out of it. I supposed a blind would work here also.

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<p>Use a throw-over blind to break up your outline. A folding stool will help you through the wait after you've positioned yourself. Plan on at least 15 to 30-minutes after you've set up. Birds will come surprisingly close to you when you're under the blind.</p>
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<p>So, would a Ghillie Suit be appropriate (I am only half joking.)? I am in a Loblolly Pine forest. I have noise reduction software that has proven effective (with manual aid) at ISO 3200, and a 500/8 refraction lens. Also, I keep hearing "blind" how can I build one?</p>

<p><blockquote>*You could cobble something up* (how) or buy one ready to go from Bass Pro or Cabelas.</blockquote></p>

<p>Please and thank you,<br /> P.S.</p>

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<p>A Ghillie will work, just pay attention that your head's outline is obscured. You can crawl up if you gungho, but you can also walk up and then simply lie or sit and wait.</p>

<p>Outdoor Photography Gear has a selection of folding and throw-over blinds. I like the throw-over for its lightness combined with effectiveness. (I've had birds and animals so close that they couldn't fit in the frame.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Also, I keep hearing "blind" how can I build one?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A "blind" is simply anything that you can hide in/behind and photograph the wildlife from. They can range from a simple board with a support, to a structure with 4 sides, roof, floor, and slots to peer out of. There are also "soft" blinds that go up like a bungee-pole tent, and even cars work remarkably well. The animals may be wary at first, but as long as it doesn't move, or look like a threat, they'll get used to it, and pretty much ignore it.</p>

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I would imagine most larger birds are more skittish because they were probably hunted for food at one time. The

smaller birds aren't worth the effort so they're usually more tolerant because humans have never been a threat. I

would imagine the pileated was once hunted and that's why it is so wary. I too have had the same experience chasing

these magnificent birds. You could buy a blind at a sporting goods store for less than $100 and if you know where

there's a nest that they are constantly tending to then a blind would be a very promising way to get a photo. I would

take advantage of the situation and get the shot now, even if it means coughin up a few bucks. You may never get

another opportunity this good.

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Also, when they're around don't make any sudden or jerky movements. Move your head and camera smooth and

slowly... And that still may scare them. In fact if one flys over, don't even look up to watch it, that head movement will

many times even scare them from landing nearby.

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<p>standard suet should do. definitely put it in a cage or the squirrels will get it. I've never had a pileated at out feeder, but I heard about a guy that made one with a sturdy perch for them to stand on because the birds are too big to stand on the feeders. Or you can probably attach the cage to the trunk of the tree (if that's what you meant anyways) so they can stand on the tree while eating. Also, you may put some peanut butter on the tree out of camera sight to attract the bird to come in front of your lens. </p>
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<p>Where can I get material for a blind, and how do I make it so that I cannot be seen, but the image will not be obstructed?<br>

Thank you for the tips on the suet. Would black oil sunflower seed suet be any better, or is that just a marketing ploy?<br>

Finally, what lens should I use? My 500/8 can only focus to 33 feet. I think I will be about 20 feet away, so that's out of the picture. I have an 80-200/4 that focuses to 1:4, and I think that, but should I be farther and use the longer lens, or is that right?</p>

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<p>Peter asked:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Finally, what lens should I use? My 500/8 can only focus to 33 feet. I think I will be about 20 feet away, so that's out of the picture. I have an 80-200/4 that focuses to 1:4, and I think that, but should I be farther and use the longer lens, or is that right?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>At 20-feet the 80-200/f4 should do the trick. I'd combine it with a 1.4x TC if you have it, since you'll get added magnification and not change your minimum focus distance. Too bad that the 500/f8 doesn't focus closer. I'd say use it with an extension tube, but your light will be getting too low. The 80-200/f4 will likely focus much faster and sharper.</p>

<p>Here's an example with my 70-200mm f/4 with a 1.4x TC:</p>

<p><a title="Northern Cardinal by dcstep, on Flickr" href=" Northern Cardinal src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4012/4274894709_1ca60f2ce6_z.jpg" alt="Northern Cardinal" width="608" height="640" /></a></p>

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<p>That's a great photo, but as I've said previously, I am a low-level amateur (who started 2 years ago with nothing but an HP 635), and it's the photographer, not the equipment.</p>

<p>Also, you needn't worry about focusing speed; my lenses are all MF.</p>

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<p>Peter said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>That's a great photo, but as I've said previously, I am a low-level amateur (who started 2 years ago with nothing but an HP 635), and it's the photographer, not the equipment.<br>

Also, you needn't worry about focusing speed; my lenses are all MF.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>LOL my friend. We all start somewhere. Shots like this should be a goal. You're doing the right things by getting close and giving yourself opportunities for good shots.</p>

<p>Remember to pre-focus so that you'll only need to fine tune when a bird comes into view. I remember when I used to MF. If you start close, then it's pretty easy to pop to a sharp image. <br>

Also, remember that you're shooting digital and now that you've bought the camera, lenses and memory cards, extra shots are FREE. I don't remember how many I took of the cardinal, but it was probably at least 20. I then look through them for the best pose, best eye light, best bokeh, etc., etc. That's one "secret" to success, giving yourself more chances. In two-hours at my local state park, I'll usually take 200-500 image and process ten and post two or three.</p>

<p>Look for the eye-light. Be there during the best light and have the light behind you. Be patient and move slowly. It'll come to you.</p>

<p>Good luck. Post some results and we can give you helpful tips and evaluate what you're doing right and wrong.</p>

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<p>There really doesn't have to be anything fancy or complex about a blind. Materials for a blind can be had from any hardware store, lumber yard, home center (e.g. Lowes, Home Depot). Even a fabric store. Perhaps you have some scrap lumber around the house. The simplest blind would be one that you hide behind, like a plywood board, bit of "stockade" fence, or just cloth. Must be careful that the birds can't see you through it, so it may need a roof of some type, or a backing, if the sun can shine from behind it.</p>

<p>You mention having a porch, If it is a large porch, and you can devote space to it, you could just erect a plywood board with a slot or hole cut in it to shoot through at a convenient height for use from a chair or standing. You might also add some cloth to cover the parts of the hole or slot you are not shooting through.</p>

<p>Birds can be very wary of changes to their environment. So after erecting the blind, you might want to install a fake "lens" sticking through the hole (like a piece of black plastic pipe) so that the birds get used to that aspect. Then, when you are out there, waiting for the perfect shot, they don't see anything different.</p>

<p>Note that a blind still may not work, if you're not sitting in it when the opportunity to take the shot comes. If you have to go out to it, you're likely to scare off the wildlife, unless they're really accustomed to your presence.</p>

<p>Also look through websites like Cabela's and Bass Pro for hunting blinds. They can often be used for photography as well. Do a google search for photography blind plans. They're out there. You could also try, if your yard is large enough, and you have domestic approval, a garden "shed" with a window. These can be had as kits from many home centers, or plans from several catalogs.</p>

<p>At the Great Swamp National Wildlife Refuge in New Jersey, there are three observation blinds at their Wildlife Observation Center. Two are large permanent structures that have a floor, a roof, 4 walls, an entryway, and slots along three sides at two levels. In these, the slots go diagonally to accommodate persons of varying statures, and a lower set for children. The third blind is not much more than a tall fence wall erected so that the wildlife on the other side can't really see people, nor their approach to the blind. It's just one "wall", with benches and slots to peer through.</p>

<p>As for suet, my personal preference is straight suet, though in the head of summer, this might not be advisable. I found that, in my neighborhood, Gray Squirrels and "blackbirds" (Starlings, Red-winged Blackbirds, Grackles, etc.) were far less likely to go to the straight suet than any suet with any seed, berries, nuts, etc. mixed in. If Squirrels & "blackbirds" are not a problem in your area, then you would probably have better luck with attracting woodpeckers to a suet mix. Here's a link to a good web page on <a href="http://www.allaboutbirds.org/Page.aspx?pid=1179">feeding wild birds</a>.</p>

<p>As for feeders, you can use a commercial feeder, but your photos will look more natural if you adapted something like an old log as a feeder for woodpeckers. Use a screw-eye, or drill a hole through near the top to hang it, and drill some 3/4" or larger holes on opposite sides so that you don't see the hole from your shooting position when the feeder log is hung. Fill the holes with suet, mealworms, etc. and wait for the action!</p>

<p>As to how far you need to be away, that can very greatly. Small birds, like Sparrows, you need to be pretty close to for a frame-filling shot of the bird. I took some nice shots of a White-throated Sparrow from no more than 25' with a 100-400mm lens @ 400mm on a Canon 7D, which works out to a 35mm equivalent of 560mm with the APS-C sensor, and still, there was a good crop needed to fill the frame. A Pileated Woodpecker, at the same distance would likely have filled the frame at 400mm, so I would back off a bit with the lens.</p>

<p>Good luck!</p><div>00YrUi-367549584.jpg.cdcc42f90689580f48335499b72d9749.jpg</div>

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<blockquote>

<p>as I've said previously, I am a low-level amateur (who started 2 years ago with nothing but an HP 635), and it's the photographer, not the equipment.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I'm not much farther ahead of you, if at all! :-)</p>

<p>For me, it's about 10% equipment (my previous equipment couldn't do what I'm trying now...), 20% knowledge, 20% skill, and 50% luck! Ok, maybe more luck than that. Like anything, it comes down to how much time you're willing to devote to something. The gnatcatcher shot below, which is far from perfect, took me more than 100 frames, over 7 minutes of following it around the trees at the Great Swamp NWR. Of the over 100 frames, only 29 made it off the camera (the rest were erased in camera), and only this one was really any good at capturing the tiny bird.</p>

<p>Take your time, take lots of shots, learn to cull the really bad ones out in the camera (your hard drive budget will thank you!), and over time, your eye for good shots, and reaction times will improve greatly. </p>

<p>At least that's what I'm hoping for myself! :-)</p>

<div>00YrV7-367555584.jpg.f1bc546b15ecc8331055d98e37fb5c43.jpg</div>

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<p><em>Where can I get material for a blind, and how do I make it so that I cannot be seen, but the image will not be obstructed?</em></p>

<p>did you try google? but as the others said nothing fancy...sounds like a manufactured one from Cabelas would work for you. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Trekker-T-100-Blind/712945.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch%2F%3FN%3D%26No%3D40%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dblinds%26Ntx%3Dmode%252Bmatchall%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts%26WTz_st%3D%26WTz_stype%3DSP%26form_state%3DsearchForm%26search%3Dblinds%26x%3D0%26y%3D0&Ntt=blinds&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products When you say "loblolly pine" that sounds southeast usa, maybe get a deer stand while you're at it, get some bird pics higher up<em>. </em>enjoy the heat in the blind (i am from the south)<em><br /></em></p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I believe, though I am not a biologist, that piliated woodpeckers, like birds in general, are shy and skittish in proportion to their size. Bigger birds take more time to get off the ground, so they don't wait around when disturbed. There are, of course, variations on this: you find much tamer birds of any particular species in parks, for example, where they have become acclimated to humans.<br>

If you want the challenge of stalking, a blind is the way to go. Don't spend a bunch of money on one. Buy an 8-by-10-foot plastic tarp in a plain dark color and string it up with some 3mm twine. Cut a slit in it for your lens. Put the whole rig where you expect to see the bird. Bring a lawn chair, book and lunch and put your camera on a tripod. And wait.</p>

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<p>As for tree stands: Could I go on my (shallow-sloped) roof, put on a (ghillie suit/tarp), and wait there? I am in good viewing range of a good many trees. I can be anywhere from safe(ish) jumping height to two stories up.</p>

<p>(Disclaimer: If you say it is a good idea and I fall, or otherwise injure myself in ways that were made possible by my being on my roof per your endorsement of the idea, neither I nor my relations will sue you.)</p>

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<p>Peter asked:</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>As for tree stands: Could I go on my (shallow-sloped) roof, put on a (ghillie suit/tarp), and wait there? I am in good viewing range of a good many trees. I can be anywhere from safe(ish) jumping height to two stories up.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Why not? Just don't shoot your eye out. ;-)</p>

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