Gossen Sixtomat 'Color Finder' - any ideas on how to use

Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by arthur_mcculloch, Jan 5, 2007.

  1. Hello. I have acquired (through a friend's donation) a gossen sixtomat,
    probably dating from the 50's or 60's (I'm afraid I cannot post a picture as I
    remain digitally challenged, confining my photography to the use of a bronica
    system for b&w, an ensign selfix 820 for colour panoramics, and a small
    collection of retina IIc's and a IIIc for 35mm. One of these meters is for
    sale on ebay at http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Gossen-Sixtomat-Cased-Light-Meter-NO-
    RESERVE_W0QQitemZ170066772056QQihZ007QQcategoryZ4702QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcm
    dZViewItem, if that's any help). The sixtomat looks like a small star trek
    vox, with a sliding cover much like those found on the old roll top desks you
    sometimes see. It has two scales between a bar which records f stops. These
    scales move to the left and right by turning a dial on the right hand side of
    the unit - this also allows me to align the moving needle with a sliding
    marker at the bottom. The dial is clearly there to adjust ASA. The top scale
    goes from 4' to '1000, and I presume is a time scale (It's in blue). The
    bottom scale has a top line (in blue) that is exactly the same, and a bottom
    line in red that goes from 1 to 19 (I suspect that this may be an ev scale).
    It's clearly a selenium cell system (that much I do know). On its back is a
    pop up red covered window.

    Sorry for the 'thick' description.

    Has anyone used this meter? Do you have any advice on how to use it? More
    importantly, the dial at the side does not seem to allow me to change the
    ASA/DIN setting. Before dismantling it (it has a central screw and a small
    pin near its circumference), is there a special manouver to change the ASA
    setting.

    I have plenty of selenium cell meters, relying on a horvex and a weston II for
    most of my retina use, but I'd like to use it (I suppose I could always pull
    it out of my pocket in a packed train, slide open the louvres, and speak into
    it 'open channel B, then beam me up' if worst comnes to worst.

    Thanks for any help

    Arthur McCulloch
     
  2. I often regret parting with mine, it's one of the classic designs in my opinion.

    Setting the film speed: as the manual says, just turn the knob and then keep turning. As it gets older, the mechanism gets stiffer but the whole thing gets more fragile, so excercise some care. I'd suggest turning the knob to the stop and then applying increasing pressure until it moves to the next setting. Then pause and repeat as required until you have it where you want it.

    The colour temperature reading is really little more than a gimmick, so far as I'm concerned but it can be interesting to see how lighting balance changes as you move around a subject. The roller blind, on the other hand, is really quite fun and the readout is much the best I've found on any analogue meter.
     
  3. Dave

    The manual was great. Thanks. Solved my problem

    H.P. likewise.

    Regards

    Arthur
     
  4. Also some good info here: http://www.3106.net/photo/cam-beli.htm
     
  5. Arthur,
    I recently found a Horvex 2 meter that appears to be working quite well. However, I'm a bit clueless on how to use it as I'm not sure about the two pointers on the rotating scale or quite how to set it. I couldn't find a manual online. Any pointers on how to use it wourld be much appreciated.
    Thanks!
     
  6. I believe I have gotten myself a clue about the Horvex 2, which I found today. I don't know the correct words for this but hopefully you'll understand.

    With the white shield in front of the sensor you can measure the incoming light towards an object (put the meter at the object and point it at the camera), by putting the squere with to pins on it (or something) at the needle. By taking of the shield and utilizing the big arrow instead I believe you measure the reflected light, e.g. put the meter in front of the camera and point it at the object.

    I have no idea if this is right, it's just a guess that seems logic.
     
  7. It wasn't an especially old thread i found either, luckily.. :roll:
     

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