GOKO TC-301 s-8 transfer device questions

Discussion in 'Video' started by frank_fitzgerald|1, Sep 2, 2010.

  1. A friend gave me a GOKO Telecine TC-301 super-8 transfer device and, without a manual, I am trying to get it working. The machine has a number of issues and I might have numerous questions, but to start with:
    1. Do I have it threaded properly? It can be seen at www.goodlight.net/graphics/GOKO-TC-301.jpg.
    2. When I click from "Still" to "Forward," all the visible gears start turning, but take-up reel remains motionless. Also, when I put it in "Reverse," the supply reel does not move. Is there a switch somewhere to activate the take-up and supply reels? Or is there something else I am overlooking?
  2. Update: I have taken the arm covers off and the pulleys are intact and relatively tight, but the wheels inside the arms are not turning.
  3. Are the drive belts there? Are they slipping? I've had 16mm projectors where the drive belt was slipping. Very carefully sprayed "belt dressing" from the auto parts store onto the belt (shielding interor parts of the projector carefully from the spray) and it got it working. If the unit is operating and it's just the take up arms not working, then get a set of Super 8 rewinds and just wind the film manually.
  4. I can't get some frozen screws loose to get the back off. Unfortunately, I have a bunch of regular 8mm (not Super-8), so this unit won't do me much good - I think. Curiously, the plate on the side (see http://www.goodlight.net/graphics/GokoSpdAdjust1.JPG) says, "TELECINE PLAYER TC-301/302." TC-302 is regular 8mm. I assume this is probably a plate the company just used for either machine. OTOH, the supply reel fits regular 8. I've been advised that the machine simply needs a super-8 adapter on that hub.
    Unless it turns out there is some way to get this machine to actually take regular-8, I'd just like to get it working normally to sell.
  5. I don't see where it says regular 8mm on it. That is definitely Super 8 film you have threaded on it, and the sound head is the right distance from the picture head for Super 8 (regular 8mm magnetic sound had the sound head I think 54 frames ahead of picture, compared with 18 frames in Super 8). If the sprocket holes in the film are properly fitting onto the sprocket wheels in the picture, then it's definitely Super 8. If the sprocket wheel were regular 8mm the spacing wouldn't match (72 holes to the foot in Super 8 and 80 in regular 8mm) and the sprocket teeth are bigger. The spindle for regular 8mm reels is smaller than Super 8, 5/16 inch vs 1/2 inch if my memory is correct. A spindle adaptor was commonplace on dual 8 projectors and editors that I don't think this is dual 8 and the adpator would only help you with the reels, not the film itself.
  6. A GOKO TC-302 is regular 8mm. Thanks for your input. I kinda knew most of that, but was just wondering (grasping at straws) if I might be overlooking a way to change out the sprocket wheels. Didn't know about the position of the sound heads. Guess that seals the deal. Super 8 only.
  7. Other than the reels not turning, does the unit work? Is it producing a good video signal?
  8. Because the take-up reel isn't turning, I can only run film past the gate for a few seconds. Bear in mind, I don't actually know how to operate this thing, but I did a test just now. As already mentioned, the light comes on and the film moves. I can also adjust the brightness. But if one is supposed to see the image through the lens at the back... well, unfortunately, I don't. Anybody have suggestions for a more thorough test?
  9. I'm not familiar with this particular model but there were two types of telecine units. In the most advanced, the video camera was built in and the output would be an electrical connection for the video output rather than a lens -- either the yellow RCA phono jack like you typically see on a VCR today (although not necessarily yellow), a BNC professional video connector or even an older PL threaded connector. Ones without a built-in video camera would have had a lens or at least an opening that a video camera/camcorder could be pointed into. Sounds like that might be what this one is. The up side is that you can use today's higher-resolution cameras with digital formats, even an HD camcorder. The downside is that it's not as convenient and might take some work to get the alignment and exposure correct. If there is a lens on the back, the image would be very dim compared with what you would get from a projector (because the video camera only needs a comparatively small amount of light) but you should see somethiing. Might try pointing a camcorder into it and running some film.
  10. Actually, I have been able to see an image inside the case, through the lens, but it is only the bottom half of the frame. There is something blocking the top half. I can take the front panel off, but don't find anything under it to adjust or move that has any significant effect.
  11. One of those two silver knobs on the front should be the framing control (the other should be focus). Try adjusting it. It moves the aperture up or down relative to the film to put the frame line in the proper position. It might be affecting whether you see a full frame or not, especially at the extreme end of its adjustment. The angle you're looking into the lens from can also be a factor. If you're anything other than a dead-on straight angle you might see something other than what the video camera would see.
  12. Thanks much for your interest. I had tried these things best I could. I kinda think there is something blocking the top of the frame, which will not be resolved until somebody opens up the back - but it won't be me. It is scheduled to be offered soon on eBay "for parts."

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