Glacial acidic acid

I am processing RA4 in a jobo CPP2. I have been unable to get glacial acidic acid shipped to me and my local supply no

longer carries it. I read through the kodak tech manuals online and notice that in small tube processing they indicate that it

is optional to use a stopbath. Has anyone processed prints without the stopbath made from acidic acid? I normally only do

one shot with the chemicals since I don't do a large volume of prints. Is it possible to skip the acid and go directly to

Bleachfix? Should I wash between developer and bleachfix? It is getting hard to find chemicals locally since it seems that

digital is taking over in most stores. Shipping regulations seem to prevent most of the big online stores from shipping except

for Adorama. They ship but have been stocking less of the chemicals I used to use. Any alternatives to stopbath or can I

just skip it altogether and go straight to bleachfix.

Thanks for any input.

Andy

If you are diluting to less than 5%, just go buy some vinegar and dilute that.

It's *acetic* acid (not "acidic").

 

As Bob said, in a pinch you can just use vinegar. It's the same thing, albeit diluted and it might be difficult to determine how much further it needs to be diluted. Also, it's purity might be questionable.

 

Likely a sub'ing a water bath would work. Some people do that developing black and white film. It's just that a mildy acidic bath *stops* development of the developer (which is basic) immediately.

 

Googling "glacial" (I'd never heard of that), it's just another name for undiluted acetic acid.

 

Try googling "Kodak Indicator Stop Bath", that's a specific brand name. Here's one hit:

 

http://www.adorama.com/KKISBP.html

The answer to your question is you can use two or three rinses with fresh water in a tube.

 

In my Nova slot processor, water bath works for a print or two, then borders get blue splotches.

Stop bath is typically around 3% acetic acid by volume. Distilled white vinegar is about 5% acetic acid by volume an probably has a low level of impurities, but certainly more than a lab grade. Glacial acetic acid is 99%+ pure. It is called "glacial" because it freezes at a fairly high temperature. It is not particularly corrosive but is a strong irritant, hence a hazardous material for shipping purposes.

 

You should have no trouble finding Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, which is about 30% by volume. It is not an hazardous material and easier to dilute than glacial acetic. It changes color to purple when exhausted, which is convenient.

 

In a pinch you could use water in lieu of stop bath, but stop bath halts the action of the developer instantly and averts the effect of developer (alkaline) on fixer, which must remain acidic. Consider it cheap insurance for consistent processing.

Stop bath is typically around 3% acetic acid by volume. Distilled white vinegar is about 5% acetic acid by volume and probably has a low level of impurities, but certainly more than a lab grade. Glacial acetic acid is 99%+ pure. It is called "glacial" because it freezes at a fairly high temperature. It is not particularly corrosive but is a strong irritant, hence a hazardous material for shipping purposes.

 

You should have no trouble finding Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, which is about 30% by volume. It is not an hazardous material and easier to dilute than glacial acetic. It changes color to purple when exhausted, which is convenient.

 

In a pinch you could use water in lieu of stop bath, but stop bath halts the action of the developer instantly and averts the effect of developer (alkaline) on fixer, which must remain acidic. Consider it cheap insurance for consistent processing.

I got a jug of Sprint Stop, since even Kodak's 28% acetic acid has gotten too hard to find.

Thanks for the info guys, I do have some indicator stop bath for black and white paper. I didn't know I could also use it for color processing. That's perfect. I will have to try it tommorrow. Appreciate all the great input.

You can get odorless stop bath made from citric acid from Freestyle.

I bought glacial acetic acid (99%) from Photographers' Formulary not too long ago. I can't remember if they shipped it or I drove up to Condon and picked it up. Anyway, it's still in their catalog and thus I assume you can order it but if shipping is the issue maybe they sell it in a 28% solution. You might have to fill out the DEA form. As I recall, the Darkroom cookbook has a formula for a bisulfite stop bath that might work as a substitute. I don't use a stop for b&w film or print processing (except for lith prints) and things seem to turn out fine. I don't know if a plain water stop works for color processing but I'd be tempted to give it a try.