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Fuji X10 JPEGS as good as they say ?


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<p>Are the Fuji X10 jpegs out of the camera as good as they say is it just marketing hype? Have an S90 and have to do a fair amount of fiddling with my JPEGs in Photoshop to get them to look how I want them. The idea of spending more time shooting and less in Photoshop definitely appeals ? Anyone with an X10 care to comment. </p>
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<p>I just got an X10, testing now. Rumor is, the X20 is just around the corner, so may be worth the wait.</p>

<p>One question, do you print, and if so, how large? The X10 has some interesting features in it's EXR modes, but my understanding is that it goes down to a 6MP image.</p>

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<p>The two sites I check most often for full rez JPEGs are dpreview and Imaging Resource. I can't access dpreview at the moment.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/X10/X10A.HTM">Here's the X10 review on Imaging Resource</a>, including links to full rez JPEGs. The JPEGs look good but nothing special and generally no particular problems either, other than the "white orb" problem noted by various reviewers when the X10 met with bright pinpoint highlights. I really like the body design and option of an optical viewfinder (even if it is only 85% coverage and a tunnel view). But I'd like to see more creative in-camera JPEGs, including options for vignetting, bleach bypass, cross processing, etc.</p>

<p>Personally I'm still crossing my fingers hoping Ricoh will update the long neglected GX100/200 zoom P&S with the GRD4 processing magic. The GRD4 produces excellent JPEGs, both "straight" and creative with enough adjustments to mimic color film saturation and some b&w film characteristics. <em>(Good grief, Ricoh has turned me into a fanboy... yikes.)</em></p>

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<p>The orb issue only applied to the first few batches as I understand. Fuji in Canada allowed customers like myself to return them for updated models or a replacement. I never saw the orbs so I didn't bother. I can't comment on the jpg issue of the post as I shoot raw.</p>

<p>I don't like this camera because you have to take the lens cover off, then twist the lens and activate it, just to turn the camera on to view images etc. Sounds minor, but is a huge hassle in awful weather or having your hands full. The battery life is horrible as it's smaller than your cell phone. At $80 each, you're soon carrying around $400 in batteries just to use the camera for the day. I'd look at a nex5 or a g12 and not an x10.</p>

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<p>$80 each for batteries?</p>

<p>You can find them for a lot less in the US. Say, $30 for Fuji branded, $19 for Pearstone, and even less for generic (about $8 on Amazon).</p>

<p>I do have to agree on the turning it on thing. It's great for shooting, but not so great to just view the images after your done.</p>

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<p>Funny you should mention that specific model of camera after Ann Overland posted how a particular portrait was lit using the Fuji X10...<br /> http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00bC4w</p>

<p>...and where I used the results to post a question on its rendering of pinky caucasian skin tones here:</p>

<p>http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?topic=73620.40</p>

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<p>I'm glad to share a 12 MP sample from my X10 which has been delighting me since last summer. I am also a Nikon D5000 (12 MP DSLR) shooter. It requires pixel-peeping at 100% to see an appreciable difference in the IQ. Orbs will not be a problem with the later sensor (serial no. beginning with 23A and higher). EXR modes are reduced to 6 MP but well worth the reduction with lots of headroom for post processing if desired. I hardly ever need it, now that I know how this camera finesses various scenes.</p><div>00bDNJ-512723584.thumb.jpg.dd92f1d5737ba9bb71c4a8f81a387611.jpg</div>
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<p>I'll be posting 4 shots. First will be an X10, then a D7000. Second set the same.</p>

<p>Method: Apreture priority on both, ISO200, I believe I have contrast turned down on the Nikon for video work. Lens mounted was a Sigma 17-10mm f2.8-4. Admittedly a nice lens for the price. X10 is set to Velvia.</p>

<p>Notes: Absent mindedly I didn't pay attention to the settings on the Nikon, and while the Fuji was shooting at f8, the Nikon was wide open, so f3 for the Barn and f3.2 for the ferry. If I had stopped down to f5.6, the Nikon would be a bit sharper.</p><div>00bDOc-512743584.thumb.jpg.c5c46e66f6cdc8e221f825bb363e8a11.jpg</div>

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<p>Well, comparing straight jpegs, I would say the Fuji is impressive. The automatic lens corrections are huge, and that Velvia look is something I haven't figured out in RAW conversion. That said, the Nikon has a bit higher of a dynamic range, and it shows. It really depends on how picky you are, and what you are shooting. If it was a foggy day, I might just as soon pick the X10 as I would my D7000. Bright sun/high contrast, well, the Nikon has the edge. But that X10 will easily give me gallery worthy prints.</p>

<p>In fact, I won't hesitate to leave my Nikon at home when I go on my honeymoon later this year.</p>

<p>What really gets me is the RAW files out of the Fuji. I'm simply amazed. It really is a point and shoot that can compete with lower end DSLRs and M43. I traded my E-PM1 for the Fuji, and so far I think that was a wise choice.</p>

<p>Now I can't wait to get a Fuji with that x-trans sensor...</p>

<p> </p>

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<blockquote>

<p>That said, the Nikon has a bit higher of a dynamic range, and it shows.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Zach, I don't think the D7000 has a higher dynamic range than the X10. It just depends on your in-camera settings. The 'Picture control' setting being one of them. You would have to make the images from the D7000 a bit more contrasty, and when you do that, the dynamic range advantage (to call it that) will be gone. I think it is just a matter of difference in contrast level, not in dynamic range.</p>

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<p>It does, DXO will back me up on that one. The Fuji is 11.3EVs and the Nikon is 13.9EVs. Processing from RAW, there is indeed more room in the Nikon's files than the Fuji's. I can see it in both RAWs and JPGs, and it isn't just because of the lower contrast/picture settings. You really have to look close to see it, but it's there.<br /><br />That said, both of these are able to cover most of the DR you will need in typical shooting.</p>
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<p>ACR in Photoshop CS5. Not sure which version that is, maybe 6? All the latest updates applied.</p>

<p>That said, I am still learning a bit on how to make the most of my RAW files. Need to learn a bit more about what power is there. I just started reading a book on it, so hopefully that helps me up my game.</p>

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<p>ACR might just handle the sensors differently.</p>

<p>I just ran the barn through a levels adjustment to get it more like the Fujifilm jpeg in contrast and did a little sharpening. No saturation.</p>

<p>Is it possible to adjust contrast, brightness and sharpness in the X10? Or does it only have the equivalent of the picture control modes?</p>

<p>Edit: I adjusted the levels in Gimp.</p><div>00bDSc-512785584.thumb.jpg.c46b2064c9a247f3af5d1485eda2b0cc.jpg</div>

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<p>If I may enter here Ann, yes - the in-camera X10 raw conversion options include: Push-pull Processing, Dynamic Range, Film Simulation, White Balance, WB Shift, Color, Sharpness, Highlight Tone, Shadow Tone, Noise Reduction, Color Space</p>

 

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