EOS 5D M2

<p>Hello all,<br /> I am planning to buy the 5D M2 before stocks run out as it is cheaper than the 6D. Before I do I'd like to ask a few questions.<br /> Up until now I have used film bodies (EOS 3 & 1N). I scan with my Nikon Coolscan 5000ED. I hope to sell it in the next month to offset some of the 5D M2s price.<br /> The reason I mention my existing cameras is that I want to know how the auto focus of the 5D and 6D compare. I don't need lighting fast performance but the accuracy of my film bodies is nice. I tend to disable all but the centre focus point anyway but the cameras I have can auto focus in dim light. Is the viewfinder of 5D suitability bright to manually focus? The auto focus of the 6D appears to be improved but it is more expensive. I would like to hear from 5D users as to whether they are happy with AF performance. Does it perform well in a church for instance?<br /> Lastly, What speed flash card would I need to obtain the advertised burst rate?<br /> <br /> Many thanks for your help.</p>

<p>I own all three, the 3, the 1N, and the 5Dmk2. The autofocus on the 5D II is inferior to that of the EOS-3, more equivalent to the EOS-1N. It may work fine in a church depending on how well lit it is. Normal service = ok, candlelit service = not ok. You'll be fine with most of the CF cards available today.</p>

<p>The 6D's center focus point is supposed to be incredibly sensitive (-3 EV, as I recall), but the others are not so great (not that many of them, not cross-type). If you only intend to use the center point, and if AF is that important to you, you might prefer the 6D. The price is not really all that different from the 5DII. </p>

<p>Both the 5DII and 6D have interchangeable focusing screens, so you can install a split focus screen for manually focusing. For some reason the 5DIII lacks this feature!</p>

<p>You probably won't get a lot for used film cameras; I'd consider keeping one of them as a backup. (It's not entirely clear to me what you're selling, one camera, or two, or the scanner, or all of those.) </p>

<p>One-shot center point accuracy is generally excellent and fast on all models. Where they differ is mostly number of focus points available, and servo tracking accuracy. Also, focus speed is generally more dependent on the lens than the camera.</p>

<p>You can change out the viewfinder of the 5D mk II to one more suitable for manual focus with fast lenses. This isn't possible with the 5D mk III. It looks like the 6D has an interchangeable screen, but only the stock model is currently available. In any case, don't expect miracles from a new screen. All of these cameras were designed for autofocus. On the other hand you can use live view for very high-precision manual focus.</p>

<p>The EOS 3 and 1N both list an AF operating range of 0 to 18. The 5D mk II is -0.5 to 18 - works in slightly darker conditions. The 6D is -3 to 18 in the center point, which I believe is the best Canon to date.</p>

<p>CF card speed doesn't matter for burst rate. The burst uses an internal buffer. Using a faster CF card will reduce the time from one burst to the next burst. I don't shoot sports, but in my experience mid-range cards are fine.</p>

<p>I would say: Buy either one, you'll love it.</p>

<p>As Alan says, you don't get enough for old film cameras as a rule to make it worth selling them, although the 3 and the 1N are the best of the film cameras in that regard. At least keep the 3.<br>

<br /> Hang on to your scanner, though, it would be difficult to replace it, and I'm guessing you probably have unscanned film materials still.</p>

<p>Thanks for your replies,<br>

Just to clarify: I am planning to sell one film body (1n) as it is in better condition and the scanner once I have finished scanning. I'm glad I scanned my family negatives and some of my own work but I certainly won't miss scanning. That alone will be a real blessing. The scanner should fetch a good price on ebay.<br>

The information on auto focus was helpful, thanks. Alan, I don't plan on using manual focus unless auto focus fails.<br>

One more question, Does the 5D work reliably in sub-zero temperatures? Say -5c</p>

<p>Thanks everyone.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Is the viewfinder of 5D suitability bright to manually focus?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It's difficult to accurately manually focus with the standard Eg-A screen. The accessory Eg-S screen is optimized for manual focusing, but is best suited for lenses f/2.8 and faster. Although it has a plain matte surface with no focusing aids (such as a split image or microprism), I have found that it works very well with my Zeiss and Nikkor MF lenses.</p>

<p>I also own the EOS 3 and 5D Mk2. The centre AF point on the 5D Mk2 is excellent, on a par with that of the EOS 3 in my opinion. I also think the 5D Mk2 focuses in low light better than the EOS 3 when using the centre point. The outer points on the 5D are an absolute joke. The only time they nail focus is at f22 on a 12mm lens ;-). Seriously, they are very poor. I use the centre point only. I have never used a 6D but from what I have read it can AF more accurately in low light when compared with the 5D Mk2. Other than that I would doubt there is much difference.</p>

<p>As for reliability, the 5D2 is excellent. I've had mine since it was first released and it really is an excellent machine. The only trouble I have had is in rain. Water can get in the joystick controller and stop it from working. Don't let the weather-proofing marketing fool you. It's only part sealed which makes about as much sense as part sealing a submarine. Low temperatures are nothing to worry about and battery life is superb (well over 1000 exposures per charge in my experience).</p>

<p>For CF cards, again don't let the marketing fool you into paying through the nose for a super fast card. Any card with a write speed of 18MB/s or above (100x) is fine, even for 1080p video.</p>

<p>Overall I think you will love the camera. The 6D has a couple of extra bells and whistles and better high ISO performance but it is also plastic and smaller in the hand. Coming from shooting 35mm you will love the 5D2. </p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Is the viewfinder of 5D suitability bright to manually focus?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Not much different to the viewfinder of the EOS 3 in terms of brightness. However, you get Live View. Mount that sucker on a tripod, switch to 10x Live View and manually focus to a precision previously unheard of on film SLRs!</p>

<p>Here's a review of the 6D; near the end there's a table comparing features of the 6D, 5D mk II, and 5D mk III. Might be useful.</p>

<p>http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-6D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx</p>

 

<p>I have used my 5D II down to about -10 C, and not even a hint of battery power loss. </p>

<p>Manual focus is better than a DX body, not as good as AF film bodies, and very poor compared to manual focus bodies. I was surprised how much better it is than DX bodies though. Live view is brilliant!</p>

<p>Countless weddings have been shot with the 5D Mark II, so it's safe to say that it performs well in churches. Perfectly every time? No camera can promise that, but I have found the center focus point to be both accurate and reliable.</p>

<p>You can also use live view for manual focus with up to 10x magnification. It's not fast, and it can be a little tricky when handholding shots (it's more practical when the camera is mounted on a tripod), but this is a possibility that your film cameras don't offer.</p>

<p>I can't speak to high burst rates with flash.</p>

<p>IMP(roffesional)E, the 5D2's AF is extremely accurate, even in dim light - assuming you are using center point only. I use a pair for weddings, and like many others have had no problems with center point AF when used in lighting bright enough for me to actually see in. As long as<em> I</em> can <em>see</em> in a church, it is bright enough for my mk2s to focus. That said, the 6D's center point is absolutely better in very very dark shooting - assuming you can figure out how to set it to center point ;-) (j/k of course - I'm sure it's in the manual somewhere).</p>

<p>Your burst rate is not affected by the speed of your CF card. What the speed of your CF card affects is how rapidly the camera's buffer empties, which affects how <em>long</em> you can continue to shoot at your specified burst rate (3.9/s for the mk2, 4.5/s for the 6D). Since the latest firmware for the 5D2 updates it to UDMA7 capability, I would advise a card that takes advantage of that capability. One complaint I've got about the 6D is that it's buffer is actually <em>smaller</em> than the 5D2's, that, especially if combined with a slow SD card may make a significant difference in their actual performance depending on how you shoot. </p>

 

Just to add to this. I have had the 5DII since launch and have a 3 and a 1NRS (pellicle mirror). In terms of AF is you shoot

with the centre point it is about the same as the 1N. The pattern and edge points are better than the 5 point EOS1. The 3

has better AF even without the eye control. The 5 can do most tasks and mine works fine for ski racing and ice hockey

although the keeper rate is lower than the 7D or a 1 series DSLR. One thing I have noticed is that it does struggle

shooting landscapes into a heavily backlit scene or if a subject suddenly comes into view (like a skier over a jump).

 

In terms of cold weather I live in the Canadian Rockies and have shot mine as cold as -35 C without an incident. I try to

use other bodies below -25 but this is not always possible. I have left mine in a car parked outside for several days in -35

to -40 and it worked fine. Obviously I am very careful about condensation and the dry air here helps a lot. I much prefer

my 5DII to my 7D.

<p>I'd like to thank everyone for contributing, very helpful and informative.<br>

<br />Patrick</p>

<p>It's EOL, end of life. My experience today is that should you have a problem with the camera Canon will not service it. They will send you a note stating that they no longer manufacture parts for the camera.</p>

<blockquote> My experience today is that should you have a problem with the camera Canon will not service it.</blockquote>

<p>I'm having trouble believing that. They are still selling the camera and if nothing else have warranty obligations. </p>

<p>My issue was with the 85mm F1.2L USM lens. It went EOL on 11/1/2012. I sent it in for repair and Canon sent it back today with a note saying it was EOL. In the note, they referred me to their new product lineup and gave me the telephone number to sales.<br /><br />The 5D2 was listed as retired right?</p>

<p>The 85mm f/1.2 mk I was retired in 2006. I'd expect 5D mk II parts to be available for a few more years.</p>

<p>Studio-Four Dallas</p>

<p>But why are you dropping in your experience on a lens discontinued 7 years ago on a thread about a camera body Canon have just discontinued, and which is still being sold new? Don't you see that that's misleading in the context of the thread?</p>

<p>I own a 5DMKII, and I would NOT recommend it for the reasons stated above: i.e. the focusing system, etc. However, when you invest thousands of dollars into lenses and camera bodies you expect a certain level of service. It's one thing for a company to examine a retired product and determine that it would need parts not currently available. It's quite another scenario when they won't even crack the product open to see what the problem is. Computer companies have been doing that for years and it's horrendous. The prevailing thought has been that what good is a 5 year old computer: no good at all. Ask any professional photographer if he feels that way about a lens. Large format guys are routinely looking for lenses that were made 100 years ago. If I buy a used a 1970 automobile, odds are I can still find parts for it. I kinda think that a lens produced in 2005 or 2006 is still good, and the company should still support them. At least, look at it and determine what the problem is. Don't just send out a notice saying that the product is EOL, here's a link to buy a new one for $2000+.<br /><br />That's just my opinion. My profile is public on Facebook. You're welcome to check me out. I mainly shoot with a 5D MKII, but also have a Nikon D300, a Fuji GW690II MF camera, a Mamiya 645 Pro TL, a Toyo View 4x5 camera, and a bunch of others. I've been evaluating the Nikon D800 and the Canon 5D MKIII. I rented both cameras and tested them out. So, I've been thinking about switching to Nikon this past year, and I'm pretty sure that I'm going with the D800. I'm just not impressed with Canon's products or their service, and I've own a Canon DSLR since 1999.</p>

<p>Sorry, the above comment should have stated:<br /><br />"I own a 5DMKII, and I would NOT recommend it for the reasons stated above."</p>

<p>Personally I can sympathize, at least for the lenses. I think a 2006 L lens should be fixable. A 2006 camera - that'd be a 30D, XTi, 5D mk I, 1D mk IIN, or 1Ds mk II - well, I'd think there's less expectation that it's economically feasible to repair it.</p>

<p>Re: Nikon, I've not exactly heard glowing things about their repair facilities recently. Just FYI.</p>

<p>1. I use both a Canon 5D2 and ELAN 7NE. The only difference I can tell in focusing performance is the ELAN has the eye control which allows you to look at an off center focus point and make it active. Other than that when only using the center focus point I can't tell any difference at all. However, I am also a one shot guy and seldom use servo focus mode. Also, I find when I am shooting low light stuff with a prime wide open at F1.8 or F1.2 auto-focus doesn't work well on any camera. The focal plane is so narrow at F1.2 you pretty much have to auto-focus to be sure what you want is actually whats in focus. Brightness has a lot to do with the aperture of the lens a slow F4-5.6 lens will be a lot darker on a 5D2 than an 85 1.2L and brightness and auto-focus are both better when you use a F2.8 lens or faster.<br>

<br />For continuous shooting on a 5D2 you need a card which supports UDMA. Then the camera is unlimited continuous shooting until the card fills up. Sandisk makes a UDMA Extreme which is both fast, durable and designed for extreme cold. I find the thing which get most affected by cold weather is my batteries.</p>