megan_miller2 Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 I am currently an aspiring sports photographer for DIII college athletics. I am working with volleyball. I am very comfortable working with SLRs, but am having a difficult time transitioning to the 20D DSLR. All of my shooting happens in poorly lit gyms (the main problem). I am using a tripod, have my aperature wide open, and am still am having difficulty freezing the action if my shutter speed is even close to where it should be for a correct exposure. My ISO has been at both 400 and 800, I am currently expimenting with higher ISOs. I have dropped my lens size down to a 18-55mm and still can't seem to get the light that I need to stop the action. Any thoughts? What would you recomend? Have you had these issues? Thanks for any feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phule Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 << I have dropped my lens size down to a 18-55mm >> What do you mean by this? The amount of light you can gather is a function of the aperture of your lens. You need lenses that are f/2.8 all the way through their zoom range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_white2 Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 Get yourself a flash and a Better Beamer. http://www.naturephotographers.net/gs/betterbeamer.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbq Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 I'd recommend fast lenses, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 or 135/2, all used between f/2 and f/2.5, and as high a sensitivity as appropriate to freeze action. At ISO 3200 f/2, in "typical indoors light" (LV7), you can use 1/1000s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_van_hulle1 Posted October 31, 2005 Share Posted October 31, 2005 I gotta disagree with Peter. No flash unless you want the athlete you just blinded during the game and just lost the game point to beat the crap outta you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byronlawrence Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 personally I have seen LOTS of flashes at sports events. SO I kind of agree with Peter. get a big flash (this will work ok in volley ball there are other sports however that a flash will not help much,, as Keith mentions though, make sure the players are fine with it you don't want to get in trouble).. ALSO, get a lens with a larger max aperture. the lenses you are probably using are only capable of maybe f/3.5 or f/5.6 depending, YOu see those big white round things attached to the pro's cameras for a reason.. relatively large apertures on the pro lenses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_nelson1 Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 <I>I have dropped my lens size down to a 18-55mm and still can't seem to get the light that I need to stop the action.</I><P> I'm sorry, but the above is totally incomprehensible; sort of like saying that you've replaced all your office furniture with leather but your internet download speed hasn't improved. What does the focal length have to do with the amount of light you need?<P> The Canon 18-55mm lens is f/3.5-f/5.6 and you didn't say what aperture or focal length you're shooting at. If you're shooting "wide open" (I use the term loosely with that lens) at 55mm then you could <b>QUADRUPLE</b> the amount of light you have by just switching to a decent f/2.8 zoom like the Tamron 28-75 f/2.8. Using an f/2 or f/1.8 prime would essentially double your available light yet AGAIN, so with a camera like the 20D that has good high-ISO noise performance, and a fast lens there should be no need for flash.<P> I advise against flash for sports like that, but if you insist on flash it should be set to the lowest possible power and DIFFUSED against a wall or ceiling to avoid dazzling the players' eyes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve santikarn Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 crank up the ISO to 3200, and buy a noise reduction software such as Neat Image or noise ninja. use flash only if you are taking the photos from the side (so the light doesn't get in the eyes of the players). Sit with your back to the main light souce (window?). Use fast lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger krueger Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Depends on how dark the room is and how much money you have. First, ditch the 18-55, it's useless. f5.6 on the long end you may as well leave your lenscap on for this type of shooting. If you've got enough light for 2.8 (very likely) and enough money, get whichever of the Canon 2.8 zooms gives you the focal lengths you need. Be wary of 3rd-party 2.8 zooms. Wide open performance is one of the biggest differences between good lenses and great lenses. The 100/2, 85/1.8, 50/1.4 primes are all good wide open, save you money, and give you a stop or two of extra speed. The 135/2 is stunningly good wide open, but it's a bit more money. You could get a 50/1.4 plus a 135/2 for less than a Canon 2.8 zoom, getting somewhat better sharpness and a stop or two more light. Use ISO 1600, invest in Noise Ninja or Neat Image, learn how to apply them to batches of images. Also learn how not to go overboard and get Barbie-face (plasticy look). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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