Canon AE-1 Program questions about loading film and shooting indoors

<p>Hey everyone,<br /><br />I just recently purchased a canon ae-1 program and I'm a noobie to film shooting so I have a couple questions.<br /><br />1) so I just loaded some film into the camera and I was reading the manual and it said to take blank shots until the counter reaches "1". Does this mean that I just wasted 5 out of my 36 exposures to get to 1? is there anyway to avoid this if so?<br /><br />2) Also, I've been wondering about shooting indoors. When i try to shoot indoors in a decently lit room, my light meter usually blinks "1" saying its underexposed unless I turn the shutter speed below 1/60, which I heard is difficult to shoot if you're doing handheld photography. Is there anyway I can shoot indoors with a 400iso film handheld? If I decide to shoot at a 1.4 f stop with 1/60 even though the light meter is blinking 1 will the picture still turn out decent?<br /><br />Thanks! any other tips are helpful! I'm really new to this.</p>

1) No, there should be enough film to allow the counter to reach 1 and still provide at least 36 good exposures.

Note that if you did not advance the film, the first initial images would be exposed to light and would not come

out.

 

2) I would not recommend significantly underexposing film, unless you want grainy, low contrast results. You

can (a) use high speed film (or push process what film you are using), (b) add light (perhaps a flash unit), or ©

use a tripod and a slower shutter speed.

<p>Waiting to get to "1" is a bit conservative. I usually start at "0". Then I get 37 exposures (sometimes 38).<br>

With just a little practice, hand holding a 50mm or 35mm lens at 1/30th is not that difficult.<br>

With a 400 speed film under "office" lighting, you should be near f2.0 at a 30th.<br>

Hold steady and squeeze gently. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>However, be aware that if you try to squeeze in one or two more exposures, you can run the risk of having the film come off the take-up reel so that you don't get any pictures at all.<br>

Guard against this by <em>lightly</em> rewinding the film until it's tight, and then watching the rewind on the top of the camera spin/turn as you advance the film.<br>

I suspect that there are few 35mm shooters who have not found out why you need to watch things in such a manner. <br>

When there is not enough light, there is just not enough light. Although you can "push" some films in development, there is a definite decline in quality as you do so, as Kenneth says. If you brace the camera against something, and use the self-timer to release the shutter (so the "push" doesn't jiggle the camera) you may be able to shoot at slower speeds, but with a higher percentage of not-so-sharp. In fact, old 620 film box cameras often had their only "instant" exposure at 1/30 second. Look at the family album and you'll see even the larger format images at that speed are often a little blurred -- but it is possible to hand hold at 1/30, just more failures, though.</p><div></div>