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Canon 40D nightshot


brent_atkinson

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A spotmeter isn't a good idea for a beginner. You have to be extremely selective about where

you meter, and that selection process takes some prior knowledge and experience. Otherwise

you'll get a terrible a terrible exposure. Likewise with the histogram and nightshots. I'd go

with Ken's suggestion of bracketing and later selecting the best shot. Can't go wrong with

that one.

Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see.

- Robert Hunter

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I have found evening to be the best time for shooting "night shots". There is about a 20

minute window that works quite well. You have about 10 or so minutes prior to sunset and

about the same amount of time after sunset when the sky or ambient light and artificial

lights more or less balance. You need to get there early to get your gear set up. Also shoot in

tungsten

mode. That gives the sky a great deep blue color. Meter off the sky just above the horizon,

adjust accordingly,

and shoot test shots during the whole session, the light changes quickly at that time of day.

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Sorry for the lack of response in my above (off-topic) comment. My recommendation mirrors Ken's.

 

Remembering your previous post, Brent, leave the camera in all of its default settings until you understand what they do. I don't recommend that you experiment with RAW until you are getting decent images as JPEGs. Put the camera in manual mode, and bracket the exposures just as Ken recommends. The MLU (mirror-lock up) will help alleviate vibrations, although you can try shooting without it first, and turn it on if you need it.

 

Virtually unlimited bracketing is a great benefit (and curse) of dSLRs. If you have the time, you will nail the exposure eventually. The bad news is that it can make your exposure skills rusty, or they can improve by seeing what actually works. Your mileage may vary.

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Nilangsu, you are correct that one doesn't have to shoot in tungsten mode if one shoots in

RAW.

It is the technique I use however and I do shoot in RAW. I guess it's an old habit, shooting to

the color

balance desired, brought over from film. It does improve work flow a bit though and seems

more precise to me.

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f/8. ISO 100. Tripod and cable release. Bracket exposures. You may need to combine a

couple of exposures if the dynamic range of the scene is too great.

 

Be sure to activate the long exposure noise reduction feature on the camera.

 

I'd shoot RAW to maximize the ability to adjust the images in post-processing.

 

It is a matter of taste, but I tend to worry less about "accurate" color balancing of such

photos and more about the effectiveness of the image - sometimes playing around with

the artificial light color casts is interesting.

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